Not Your Old Saw
New circular saws are more lightweight, comfortable, convenient, and precise than ever before. Here's a close look at 10 top models.
Synopsis: This article from January 2005 reviews 15-amp., 7-1/4-in. sidewinder circular saws, explaining what features are most important for homebuilders. In addition to a detailed report on the tests conducted, the author also selects the best from a field of 10. A big chart details the specifications, including cost, for each of the saws.
When the circular saw first came out, it may have been as big a deal as cold beer, at least among carpenters. It was a noisy, metal-bodied beast that weighed 20 lb. or more, but it cut through lumber faster than any two handsaws and didn’t tire out. These days, circular saws sport lightweight, sleek, synthetic materials paired with beefy motors and smart platforms that all but cut the angles themselves. The best news is that dollar for dollar, circular saws are one of the top tool values around: You can spend around $120, and you’ll be able to cut lumber all day long for 10 years or more. And here’s a surprise: Twenty years ago, we paid the same prices that you can expect to pay today. So much for the cost of inflation.
We outfitted ten 7 1⁄4-in., 15-amp sidewinder saws with the same blade and ran them through a series of tests on both framing and finish jobs. We also tested models equipped with an electric brake that stops the blade as soon as the trigger is released. Available on some saws, this option costs $10 to $20 extra and — in our opinion — isn’t a must-have safety feature. Without a brake, the blade stops spinning in seven to 10 seconds.
Ergonomics begins with a good handle
Operating a circular saw puts a lot of torque on your wrist, so the rear-handle position and the balance between the blade and the motor are very important. Most manufacturers opt for a neutral handle position, but the geometry changes depending on whether the blade is set at full depth or 1⁄2 in. Milwaukee’s TiltLok handle system lets you rotate the rear handle higher or lower on the motor. By pressing the top-mounted lock button and lifting a release lever in front of it, you can set your preference. Most of the time, we kept the handle in the neutral position, but when trimming rafter tails, it was easier to roll the handle forward. When crosscutting medium-density fiberboard (MDF) panels, we adjusted the handle all the way back.
Many saws have a rubber covering on the molded-plastic handles to improve the grip. All the triggers were smooth and didn’t pinch or take undue effort to actuate. Our climate necessitates gloves in winter, and accessing the trigger slot and handle grip while wearing gloves was awkward on many saws. A gloved finger packed into a small trigger slot is a recipe for accidental starts or slow trigger releases. The Makita, Milwaukee, and Ridgid saws had the most handle space and the best trigger-finger clearance.
Good sightlines are a must for a circular saw
When using any tool, it’s crucial to be able to see what you’re doing. This is especially true for circular saws. Cutting right-handed, the operator should have an unimpeded view of the blade and the cutline.
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