This morning was the most exciting day on our barn project since we poured the slab. We took delivery of 2-1/2 pallets of fiberglass-faced polyisocyanurate insulation. We bought it from Insulation Depot, a company in Framingham, Mass., that salvages the stuff from commercial roof projects. I placed the order on Tuesday and received the material Friday morning.
The plan is to cut some of the 4×8 panels to 16-in. widths and fit them between the horizontal framing members (girts). We’ll put a second layer on the inside of the barn and stagger the seams. If we have enough, we’ll also cut panels to fit inside the rafter cavities in the sections of sloping ceiling up in the loft. With some judicious air-sealing, we should have a supertight shell.
I was impressed with the condition of the salvaged material. The company even sent a half-pallet extra—so we don’t complain about any broken pieces, I suppose. If the weather is good, we should be installing foam and hanging siding this weekend.
Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.
Affordable IR Camera
This camera is super useful for tracking down air leaks in buildings. The one-hand pistol grip arrangement frees your other hand for steadying yourself while maneuvering tricky job sites.
This heat gun is great for drying joint compound, primer and paint when patching drywall and plaster walls. Plus it can soften adhesive, get a very cold small engine to start, and shrink heat-shrink tubing.
Available in 2- to 12-in. widths, this is a good general-purpose flashing tape that sticks well to most things. It features a two-piece release paper, water-shedding layers, and good UV resistance.
Sign up for eletters today and get the latest how-to from Fine Homebuilding, plus special offers.
About a month ago (before the big storm), I finished up the remaining framing on the main barn's gable ends. Here I'm installing girts on the outside of the studs. I need to do this because we're installing vertical siding, which needs horizontal framing for fastening.
Here's the material after we finished. The insulation is 1-1/2 in. thick in 4x8 sheets. The pile is 5 ft. high, 8 ft. wide, and 16 ft. long. All the broken pieces are in the front; the two back piles are free of defects. The cost of the insulation was $1100, and shipping from a warehouse in NJ to my CT home cost another $400. I think we did pretty good for $1500, and we saved a ton of material from ending up in the landfill.
The foam was delivered to me in a 53-ft. tractor-trailer. The driver was a very good sport about negotiating my residential neighborhood. It took us about 30 minutes to unload the panels from the truck (by hand) and another hour to restack them neatly close to the barn.
×
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Hi Patrick,
Thanks for the blog
I have considered using your rigid insulation between the bays approach for my own project and have found little info till now. Funny because no matter how many times I searched I could not find info and..I stumbled on this looking for tips on pump jack staging. Do you have any links to further reading on the "rigid between the bays" approach. I have done this to the band joists in my basement and it is tedious...but worth it.
I live about 3 miles from the place you got your insulation. I purchased 5" of high density EPS off craigslist for under my radiant slab pour for my garage shop. I never realized I could have contacted them.
My own advice: Cut the sheets 3/4 in. undersize so you leave yourself with a 3/8 in. gap on all sides that you can foam in place. Smaller gaps don't seal as well; bigger gaps work fine too but waste spray foam. And get a pro-style foam gun if you're doing even a small amount of this.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently
say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.
View Comments
Hi Patrick,
Thanks for the blog
I have considered using your rigid insulation between the bays approach for my own project and have found little info till now. Funny because no matter how many times I searched I could not find info and..I stumbled on this looking for tips on pump jack staging. Do you have any links to further reading on the "rigid between the bays" approach. I have done this to the band joists in my basement and it is tedious...but worth it.
I live about 3 miles from the place you got your insulation. I purchased 5" of high density EPS off craigslist for under my radiant slab pour for my garage shop. I never realized I could have contacted them.
Hi TD,
Thanks for the comments. I'm assuming you've seen this:
https://www.finehomebuilding.com/item/22091/patricks-barn-the-dirt-cheap-high-r-building
and this:
https://www.finehomebuilding.com/item/22229/patricks-barn-wrapping-up-the-exterior
My own advice: Cut the sheets 3/4 in. undersize so you leave yourself with a 3/8 in. gap on all sides that you can foam in place. Smaller gaps don't seal as well; bigger gaps work fine too but waste spray foam. And get a pro-style foam gun if you're doing even a small amount of this.