FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In
What's the Difference?

What’s the Difference: Whole-House Fans vs. Powered Ventilators

By Martin Holladay Issue 235 - HOUSES 2013
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

We regularly receive emails at Green Building Advisor from homeowners with questions about attic fans: What’s the purpose of the fan in my attic? How often should I run it? Do I need a bigger fan? Before I address these recurring questions, it’s important to note that there are two types of attic fans: whole-house fans and powered attic ventilators. At the risk of oversimplifying, whole-house fans are good. Powered attic ventilators are bad.

Whole-house fans

 

A whole-house fan mounted on an attic floor

In most cases, a whole-house fan is mounted in the attic floor, above a rectangular grille in the ceiling of a central hallway. Once the outdoor temperature cools down, the homeowner opens a few downstairs windows, ensures that the fireplace damper is closed, and turns on the fan. Warm air is drawn into the attic, where it is exhausted through the vents. It is replaced by cool air pulled in through the windows.courtesy of Air Vent

A whole-house fan is an attic-mounted fan that exhausts air from a home at night, when the heat of the day has passed and the outdoor temperature has dropped enough to feel comfortable. The main advantage of using a whole-house fan instead of an air conditioner is to save energy. A whole-house fan usually draws between 200w and 700w, in contrast to a central air conditioner, which draws 2000w to 5000w.

The fan pulls air from a central hallway and blows it into the attic. Because whole-house fans are relatively powerful—usually rated between 2000 cfm and 6000 cfm—they quickly exhaust hot indoor air, allowing cooler outdoor air to enter through downstairs windows. Once the house has cooled, the fan can be turned off and the windows closed. Keeping windows closed from early morning until evening prevents cool air inside the house from escaping.

Because a whole-house fan pulls all the hot air from the house into the attic, the fan won’t work effectively unless the attic has large openings to exhaust the hot air. It’s better to have too much vent area than not enough. A good rule of thumb is to have 1 sq. ft. of net free vent area for every 750 cfm of fan capacity. The net free vent area is the total size of the vents, minus the area covered by obstructions such as louvers and insect screens. The vent area can be made up of a combination of soffit vents, ridge vents, and gable vents.

Where does a whole-house fan make sense?

 

Whole-house fans make sense in areas with cool nights. If you live in a place where the temperature stays in the 80s all night long, a whole-house fan won’t help you much. However, even if you need to seal your house and turn on your air conditioner during the hottest months of summer, a whole-house fan may be useful during the spring and fall, when nights are cool but days can be hot.

Whole-house fans don’t make sense for homes in neighborhoods where security concerns prevent homeowners from leaving their windows open. They also don’t make sense for homes with a gas water heater or furnace in the attic; such a powerful fan can extinguish the pilot light or interfere with the draft.

Because they depressurize a home, whole-house fans can cause atmospherically vented appliances—for example, a gas-fired water heater—to backdraft. If the homeowner remembers to open plenty of windows before turning on the fan, backdrafting probably won’t occur. However, the best way to avoid backdrafting problems in a house with a whole-house fan is to make sure that the appliances have sealed combustion or direct venting rather than atmospheric venting.

Whole-house fans represent a big hole in your ceiling—a hole that is likely to leak a lot of heat during the winter unless it is properly sealed with an insulated cover.

Powered attic ventilators

An illustration of the flow of air in an attic

Powered attic ventilators are usually mounted on a sloped roof, but they also can be installed in the gable wall of an attic. Most are controlled by a thermostat so that they turn on when the attic gets hot.

The intent of a powered attic ventilator is to exhaust hot air from the attic and replace it with cooler outdoor air. The idea is to save energy by reducing the run-time of your air conditioner. Installers evidently hope that a powered attic ventilator will save more energy than the electricity required to run the fan.

Although the logic behind powered attic ventilators is compelling to many hot-climate homeowners, these devices can cause a host of problems. Here’s the basic one: A powered attic ventilator will depressurize your attic, and it’s hard to predict where the makeup air will come from. Although the arrows in some sales brochures show outdoor air entering the attic through the soffit vents, that’s not what usually happens.

In an online Q&A post for Advanced Energy, a nonprofit corporation in North Carolina, building-science consultant and researcher Arnie Katz says this: “In most of the houses we’ve tested, the attic fans were drawing some of their air from the house, rather than from the outside. In other words, they are cooling the attic by drawing air-conditioned air out of your house and into the attic. Air-conditioning the attic is not recommended by anyone I know as an effective strategy for reducing your bills.”

Katz also mentions a more alarming problem with powered attic ventilators: “In one house we tested, we measured substantial levels of carbon monoxide (CO) in the daughter’s bedroom in the basement. The CO was coming from the water heater next to the bedroom, which was backdrafting. The daughter had been suffering from flulike symptoms for some time. The backdrafting was caused by the powered attic vent fan.”

What do I do if my attic is too hot?

 

A ventilator mounted into wood

In many homes, powered attic ventilators pull conditioned air out of the house and into the attic through cracks and penetrations in the ceiling. As the cool air is being sucked out of the house through the ceiling, hot exterior air enters the house through other cracks to replace the exhausted air. The air conditioner then has to work harder than ever as it struggles to cool the incoming outdoor air.courtesy of A Wise Inspector Service

A hot attic isn’t necessarily a problem. If you don’t have any ductwork or HVAC equipment up there, who cares how hot it gets? After all, you should have a thick layer of insulation on your attic floor to isolate your hot attic from your cool house.

If you do have ductwork or HVAC equipment in your attic, the designer and builder of your home made a major mistake. Solutions include:

  • Moving your ductwork and HVAC equipment to the interior of your home.
  • Sealing leaky duct seams and adding insulation on top of your ductwork.
  • Moving the insulation from your attic floor to the sloped roof assembly, creating an unvented conditioned attic.

If you believe that your house has a hot ceiling during the summer, the solution is not a powered attic ventilator. The solution is to seal any air leaks in the ceiling and to add more insulation to the attic floor.

Illustrations courtesy of Martha Garstang Hill

Sign up for eletters today and get the latest how-to from Fine Homebuilding, plus special offers.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters
×

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

New Feature

Fine Homebuilding Forums

Ask questions, offer advice, and share your work

  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

More What's the Difference?

View All
  • What's the Difference: Linoleum vs. Vinyl
  • What's the Difference: Noncombustible vs. Fire-Resistant
  • The Right Cable for Each Job
  • Choosing the Right Hand Float for Your Next Concrete Project
View All

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

A New Approach for Millwork Finishes

The LED-cure products from LED Coating Solutions offer a fast-curing, zero-VOC finish that works well for trim and cabinetry in small shop settings.

Featured Video

How to Install Exterior Window Trim

Learn how to measure, cut, and build window casing made of cellular PVC, solid wood, poly-ash boards, or any common molding material. Plus, get tips for a clean and solid installation.

Related Stories

  • FHB Podcast Segment: Do You Need HVAC Ducts in Every Room?
  • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • HVAC for a Slab-on-Grade House
  • The Best Way to Protect Heat Pumps from Rain and Snow

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

Video

View All Videos
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Do You Need HVAC Ducts in Every Room?
  • Wall-Mounted Fan Coil Unit for an Air-to-Water Heat Pump
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Sizing a Minisplit for Different Heating and Cooling Needs
  • Efficient Home Heating and Cooling
View All

HVAC

View All HVAC Articles
  • Which Refrigerant?
  • Controlling Mold in Minisplits
  • Podcast Episode 644: High Indoor Humidity, Underfloor HVAC Returns, and Textured Ceilings
View All HVAC Articles

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers
  • Issue 327 - November 2024
    • Repairing Damaged Walls and Ceilings
    • Plumbing Protection
    • Talking Shop

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 81%

Subscribe

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data