How to Build Your Own Bathroom Vanity
Step-by-step instructions on building an attractive bathroom vanity
This post includes a complementary collection of step-by-step photos for those who are interested in tackling this custom vanity project from the article “Build Your Own Bathroom Vanity“, featured in issue #252 of Fine Homebuilding magazine.
The details of a bathroom make a statement, and a vanity is often a focal point that ties those details together. The simplicity and clean lines of Shaker-style furniture appeal to me because they aren’t adorned with excessive trim, appliqués, or other embellishments, yet they are more inviting and comfortable than modern pieces in a starker style. In addition, I think the Shaker style can work as well in a suburban raised ranch as it does in a 200-year-old farmhouse.
To build this vanity, you don’t need a cabinet shop, and you don’t need weeks of build time. With some common power tools and a slight increase in cost, you can build a vanity that is stronger and far more stylish than a production model, and that requires only a couple of weekends to complete.
A classic look with a lot less effort
When designing this Shaker-inspired piece, I started with the same height, depth, and compatibility with standard plumbing fixtures that would be present on a store-bought vanity. From there, I added some details that you won’t easily find, such as mortised butt hinges, full-extension ball-bearing under-mount drawer slides, a solid-wood top, and a traditional milk-paint finish. Compared to the details on a production-line vanity, these small changes can make a big difference in the overall feel of the finished project, and they aren’t that hard to execute. My goal in building this type of project is to respect the principles of traditional woodworking but challenge some of the techniques to make the building process a bit less fussy. Although the drawing on p. 38 may look intimidating, the necessary techniques for this build are basic, and I’ve included tips and tricks to increase your accuracy. The result is a vanity that looks and feels like a handcrafted piece of furniture, but one that goes together with more ease.
The most high-priced tools I used here were a track saw and a thickness planer, but even those are negotiable. If you don’t have a track saw, then you can break down sheet goods with a circular saw and a homemade cutting guide. Also, even though you may be purchasing rough lumber that requires planing on its face and edges, most hardwood suppliers will do this work for a reasonable rate (my supplier charges 25¢ per bd. ft.) if you don’t have a thickness planer.
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Use a track saw (or circular saw and cutting guide) to create a straight reference edge on each sheet of plywood.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
Build Your Own Bathroom Vanity -
Measuring off the reference edge, mark both ends of each sheet to help orient track (or cutting guide) for plywood cuts. A sheet of rigid foam under the plywood acts as sacrificial support for cutoffs.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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Intentionally cut a bit oversized, each plywood part is then run through the tablesaw to ensure that each piece is consistently sized.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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After ripping the poplar to rough width, take multiple passes through the thickness planer to clean up the edges and faces of each piece.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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Use a miter saw to crosscut the poplar stock to final length.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
Build Your Own Bathroom Vanity -
A plywood sled holds the leg pieces at an angle, allowing them to be passed over the tablesaw to create the taper on the bottom edge.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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The front legs are rabbeted by making two cuts on the tablesaw – on edge, and on the face – so that they can mate with the side panel assemblies.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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Drill pocket holes in the end of the applicable poplar parts.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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Align, clamp, and fasten the pocket hole joints to create each poplar subassembly.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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Use the drawer front stock as a guide to size and align the position of the face frame stiles and rails.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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To establish the location of the bottom rail, cut a spacer block from a scrap of plywood.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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To accommodate the side panels, rout the backside of each side assembly, making progressive passes with a rabbeting bit to reach the marked depth.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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Use a sharp chisel to clean up the rounded corners left from the rabbeting bit.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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Set each MDF side panel into a bead of wood glue.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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Use a pin nailer to tack in thin pieces of backer wood around each panel.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
Build Your Own Bathroom Vanity -
Screw together pairs of plywood dividers in preparation for the case assembly.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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Attach each plywood subassembly to the continuous plywood bottom piece, using just a few nails to temporarily hold each piece.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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With the dividers in place, add the shelf support stretchers and top cleats.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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Only tacked in place, the plywood dividers can be knocked into alignment with the face frame before fastening it in place.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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Tackle the wood top glue up in stages – first glue together pairs, and then glue the pairs together – to make for a stress-free process.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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After the glue is dry, use the circular saw to cut the top to length.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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Sand both sides of the top, working through the grit until you reach 220.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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Use a chamfer bit to ease the top and bottom edges of the counter, which can then be further eased with sandpaper to create a subtle, flattened curve.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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Before applying any finish to the top, use a jigsaw to cut the opening for the drop-in sink.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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Use a crosscut sled on the table saw to create the stub tenons on the door rails.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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Left a touch on the tight side, the tenons are easy to slim up using sandpaper glued to a block.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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Assemble the doors with MDF panels, leaving the stiles long so they can be trimmed later.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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Once dry, use the tablesaw to cut the top and bottom edges of each door.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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A simple T-shaped router jig and mortise bit can be used to create perfect mortises for the door hinges.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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With hinges installed on the doors, hold each door in the opening and mark where the hinges meet the face frame.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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After fitting the doors, remove them and drill holes to receive the glue-in wooden knobs. A piece of painters tape wrapped around the drill bit acts as a visual depth reference when drilling.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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After tacking the drawer fronts in place (or temporarily attaching them with double-stick tape) open each drawer and permanently fasten the front from the inside using screws.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
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Fully assembled, the vanity is ready for paint or stain before installation.
Read Justin Fink’s full article from Fine Homebuilding #252
Build Your Own Bathroom Vanity
View Comments
You show no accommodations for plumbing access in the back. Wouldn't it be easier to leave the center back open or did you plan on using a jig saw to cut holes for the necessary pipe(s)?
Looks terrific.
Really recommendable. He done a great job.