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Foundations and Masonry Work

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Tools & Materials

Masonry Shaping Tools

Hammers and chisels are essential for fitting stones, bricks, and concrete blocks. Here are common styles of these tools and tips for using them.

By Cody Macfie
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Ever look at a stone wall and wonder how those stones were shaped to stack perfectly? The simple answer is that each stone was crafted with a hammer and chisel, the most important tools in masonry. You need them for a lot of jobs: to make stones smaller, shape squares, create corners, break stones in half, and make flat and curved faces. Aesthetically, these tools are essential to making your stonework look good. Structurally, they will help you shape stones correctly to create a strong project. With a little practice, in a short time you’ll be able to use a hammer and chisel to shape any stone.

Hammers

Hammers for stonework include a brick hammer for refining the edges of stones, a rock hammer for shaping rocks, and a sledgehammer for breaking large rocks. Brick hammers get the most work on my crews and are used for light shaping and edge work, which is what they are designed for. However, a skilled mason will often use brick hammers to score cut lines, pry joints, set fasteners, secure twine, and set stones in mortar. Brick hammers are available in different weights, but I prefer 22-oz. hammers because they are light enough to use for long periods and heavy enough to shape stones effectively.

A 22-oz. brick hammer
A 22-oz. brick hammer is a versatile tool to own—and can be used for more than just breaking bricks.

 

Ten Common Uses for a Brick Hammer

A brick hammer’s versatility makes it a valuable tool on a job. Here are a few of its most common uses.

1—Remove large sections to shape a fieldstone into a brick shape.
1—Remove large sections to shape a fieldstone into a brick shape.

 

2—Set stones in mortar with either the head (as shown) or the handle butt.
2—Set stones in mortar with either the head (as shown) or the handle butt.

 

3—Break manufactured stone to length with a sharp rap of the pointed end.
3—Break manufactured stone to length with a sharp rap of the pointed end.

 

4—Dress the front edge of a fieldstone cap, in this case to a slight curve for a fire pit.
4—Dress the front edge of a fieldstone cap, in this case to a slight curve for a fire pit.

 

5—Cleanly break concrete block by cutting a groove and then striking it sharply.
5—Cleanly break concrete block by cutting a groove and then striking it sharply.

 

6—Score a break line on a large piece of flagstone and break the stone with a single strike.
6—Score a break line on a large piece of flagstone and break the stone with a single strike.

 

7—Dress a flagstone edge, after it has been broken, to remove irregularities.
7—Dress a flagstone edge, after it has been broken, to remove irregularities.

 

8—Break a solid brick in half. Do this on a bed of sand to cushion the brick so that the break will be more accurate.
8—Break a solid brick in half. Do this on a bed of sand to cushion the brick so that the break will be more accurate.

 

9—Adjust joints by prying the sharp end of the hammer between stones. This works well for small adjustments.
9—Adjust joints by prying the sharp end of the hammer between stones. This works well for small adjustments.

 

10—Mark a cut line on a stone. Using the same tools in efficient ways reduces wasteful effort (like picking up a pencil to mark a cut line) throughout the day.
10—Mark a cut line on a stone. Using the same tools in efficient ways reduces wasteful effort (like picking up a pencil to mark a cut line) throughout the day.

 

Rock hammers and sledges are primarily used to break rocks. A heavier sledge, with a 12-lb. head, will make short work of breaking large fieldstones into smaller pieces. Smaller sledges of 3 lb. or 4 lb., when used with chisels, are great for shaping bulky stones.

A small sledge
A small sledge and chisel are essential for shaping bulky wall stones.

 

Rock hammer
Rock hammers with a wedged end for breaking stone are more specialized than typical sledges.

 

TRADE SECRET — Never use a claw hammer for stonework. Keep it handy, though, for fastening wall ties, lath, and flashing, or for small carpentry tasks that often arise, such as building forms and braces.

 

Chisels

Chisels are used for scoring, edging, refining, and breaking brick, rock, and block. Stonemason’s chisels are heavy-duty with a thick shank and broad head. The better ones have replaceable carbide tips that hold an edge longer.

Chisels for masonry
Chisels for masonry are stout with thick shanks and wide heads. This shank’s mushroomed end is typical of a well-used chisel.

 

Chisels are sold as either handset chisels or hand-tracer chisels. The former has a thicker edge and is used to break off larger pieces of stone. The latter has a sharper tip and is used to remove smaller pieces of stone or to split a stone along a straight line.

The hand-tracer chisel (left) has a sharper edge than the handset chisel (right).
The hand-tracer chisel (left) has a sharper edge than the handset chisel (right).

 

Handset chisels are used to remove large chunks from bulky wall stones.
Handset chisels are used to remove large chunks from bulky wall stones.

 

A hand-tracer chisel, with its sharp tip, can make quick work of breaking stones.
A hand-tracer chisel, with its sharp tip, can make quick work of breaking stones.

 

Cold chisels and brick chisels are used for scoring brick and block. They do not have carbide tips and will not last nearly as long as a carbide-tipped chisel. However, they can be found at most home improvement stores and are generally less expensive. A cold chisel is a chisel made of tempered steel. Both carbide and cold chisels can be sharpened on the job site.

 

mason-tool-bucket

What’s in the Bucket?

Every mason carries personal tools to the job (usually in a 5-gal. bucket).

    • Brick hammer
    • 3-lb. rock hammer
    • Rubber mallet
    • 2-in. handset chisel
    • 2-in. hand-tracer chisel
    • Mortar trowel
    • Pointing trowel
    • Whisk broom
    • Tape measure
    • 4-ft. mason level
    • Roll of nylon mason twine
    • Chalk line
    • Line level
    • Plumb bob

 

Make a Clean Break Using Chisel and Sledge

Place the chisel at the beginning of the cut, angled at about 30 degrees. 1. Then strike the chisel medium hard (less than all you’ve got but hard enough to make the stone take notice). Hit the stone only once. Move the chisel forward along the break line, reverse the angle, and strike the chisel, again, medium hard 2. Proceed across the stone, reversing the chisel angle each time. When you reach the other side, start back across the stone along the same break line 3. Keep doing this until the stone breaks 4. It may take a few minutes; be patient, and you’ll be rewarded with a clean cut.

1—Angle the chisel 30 degrees to one side and strike it once to begin the breaking process.
1—Angle the chisel 30 degrees to one side and strike it once to begin the breaking process.

 

2—Move a couple of inches along the desired break line and reverse the chisel angle before striking the chisel again.
2—Move a couple of inches along the desired break line and reverse the chisel angle before striking the chisel again.

 

3—Advance across the stone, striking once in each location and alternating chisel angles.
3—Advance across the stone, striking once in each location and alternating chisel angles.

 

4— Retreat along the break line in the same manner until the stone breaks.
4— Retreat along the break line in the same manner until the stone breaks.

 

Dress a Corner Stone with Hammer and Chisel

To dress a flagstone corner for a patio, find a piece of stone that looks like a natural corner stone with an angle close to 90 degrees 1. Use a framing square to mark a 90-degree angle on the edge with a pencil. Next, use a handset chisel and small sledgehammer to remove small sections along the line 2. Break off small pieces, working away from the edge 3.

 

1—Select a stone that already has a corner close to 90 degrees, or create one by breaking the stone perpendicular to its straight edge.
1—Select a stone that already has a corner close to 90 degrees, or create one by breaking the stone perpendicular to its straight edge.

 

2—Remove irregularities along the edge that will be most visible.
2—Remove irregularities along the edge that will be most visible.

 

3—Work away from the edge and be careful near the corner, where stones break easily.
3—Work away from the edge and be careful near the corner, where stones break easily.

 

 

Sharpening Tools on the Job

Brick hammers, cold chisels, and carbide-tipped chisels can be sharpened on the job site with a portable angle grinder. Using a fine-grit wheel, gently pass the grinder across the tool’s cutting surface. Try to match the existing bevel on the blade and avoid being too aggressive with the grinder. Keep a bucket of water handy to cool the steel often (photo at right below). You don’t want the edge to get hot and lose its temper (ability to keep an edge).

portable angle grinder

 

cool the steel often

 


Masonry Complete

Excerpted from Masonry Complete (The Taunton Press, 2012) by Cody Macfie

Available at Amazon.com.

Previous: Efflorescence and Spalling in Concrete Next: Choosing and Using Masonry Trowels

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