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How-To

A More Resilient Roof

A sealed roof deck, strengthened edges, and wind-resistant materials help a Fortified asphalt-shingle roof stand up to heavy rain and high wind.

By Ben Murphy Issue 331 - June 2025
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In this article, Fortified Roofing Contractor Ben Murphy details the construction of an asphalt-shingle roof that can withstand heavy rain and high winds. A Fortified Roof like the one shown here includes features such as a sealed roof deck, strengthened edges, and wind-resistant shingles and flashing, all designed to enhance a home’s resilience during storms. Murphy explains how these upgrades help protect homes from damage and prevent costly interior repairs by reinforcing key areas of the roof to handle extreme weather conditions.

Why Fortified Matters

Newly married, my wife and I settled near Orange Beach, Ala. Her family had a vacation house nearby, so we knew and liked the area. Like many people, we were drawn here because of the beautiful scenery and the chance to live near the Gulf Coast year-round.

I had a successful business building homes in the area for eight years when I learned about the Fortified Homes program in 2010. Developed by the Institute for Business and Home Safety (IBHS), this program aims to reduce damage from high winds and hail by reinforcing key areas of a house’s structure. (I discussed details of the Fortified standards in “Bracing for the Storm”).

Like anyone who lives on or near the Gulf Coast, I’m aware of the risks to lives and property from tropical storms. For this reason, I thought getting certified as a Fortified Professional builder through the voluntary program could help me differentiate my business from that of my competitors.

As a Fortified Professional, you can build or retrofit homes to meet certain standards for resilience. To become a Fortified Professional, I completed online training and passed a certification test. I also had to provide proof of relevant professional experience, proper licensing, and insurance.

More Resilient Houses

One of the critical elements of a Fortified home is a roof system with details meant to make it more resilient in storms and to prevent damage to the home’s interior if the roof covering is damaged. When I couldn’t find any roofing subcontractors willing to install Fortified Roofs, I went through the additional training and testing to become a certified Fortified Roofing Contractor myself. The additional certification, while not required, is recommended for anyone who will be installing Fortified Roofs.

Since 2015, our company has installed 4000 Fortified Roofs on everything from multimillion-dollar oceanfront homes to Habitat for Humanity rehabs in low-income communities. Business is booming because the state of Alabama offers $10,000 incentives for homeowners to install Fortified Roofs in coastal areas.

In this area, Alabama also enforces the High Wind Zone Amendment in the International Residential Code, which has similar requirements to a Fortified Roof for edge-metal and shingle fastening, and similarly requires heavy-duty pipe and vent flashing as well as a sealed roof deck in the form of taped seams or full self-adhered underlayment. (We choose the latter, because our crews find it easier to install.)

What It Costs

The step up to a Fortified Roof, which includes extensive documentation and improvements to gutters and ventilation, means an increase in cost of about 10% to 15% over that of a standard code-compliant roof in this area. This is not a huge additional expense for a roof that qualifies for insurance discounts and that can better protect a house and its possessions in a storm.

A big part of building a Fortified Roof is documenting that the strengthening work has been done according to the standard. We provide photos geotagged to the site that show every step of the installation. For asphalt-shingle roofs like the one shown here, we take photos that show the nails we add to strengthen the sheathing connection, the nail pattern on the eave metal and drip edge, the self-stick underlayment, the starter strip, the flashing boots, the ridge vents, and the completed roof from every elevation.

We also include photos of the material delivery, including photos that show the testing certifications of each product to be installed. There are similar upgrades and documentation requirements for metal and tile Fortified roofs. We submit the photos and material invoices along with the Roofer’s Compliance Form, our affidavit that the roof meets the Fortified standards.

What Happened to This Roof?

The house shown in the photos was damaged by hail. The previous owner reached a settlement with the insurance company and took the money without replacing the roof. The damage was revealed in the new buyer’s home inspection before the most recent sale. The new buyer contacted us to replace the roof and bring it up to the Fortified standard.

The house is pretty typical of those in the area—OSB roof sheathing with taped seams to prevent water intrusion, a code requirement on new builds since 2012. When a house has 1x boards for roof decking with gaps between boards, we are required to install 7⁄16-in. or thicker sheathing on top of the boards. If the 1x boards are butted tightly together, we can re-nail without an additional sheathing layer.

This house’s hip roof is naturally wind-resistant because of its self-bracing shape and slope on every elevation, which directs wind over the roof. When we reroof gable roofs, we build plywood covers for gable vents to prevent water intrusion during tropical storms. The covers have hardware that makes them easy to install and to remove so they can be taken off when there’s no threatening weather.

We’ve used other shingles, but our current favorite is from Atlas. The company provides an extended 15-year warranty when we use its underlayment, accessories, and shingles—all the products for a complete roof, which makes ordering easy. When the client requests it, we can install an impact-rated shingle to protect from hail, but we don’t have too many requests because of the high cost of the shingles.

By any measure, roofing is tough work and a competitive business, but it’s satisfying knowing that the wind-resistant roofs we install help protect our clients, their houses, and their possessions. Given the modest costs for an upgrade and having lived through several tropical storms and hurricanes, I think a Fortified Roof makes a lot of sense. I’m pretty sure anyone who’s seen the devastation caused by roof failures during high-wind and tropical storms would say the same.

Sealed and Strengthened Roof Deck

Additional nails prevent the sheathing from separating from the framing during high wind. Continuous underlayment or taped seams between sheathing panels creates a secondary barrier to keep water out of the house even if the roof is blown off.

Nail at Every Truss: Every sheathing panel is nailed to every truss or rafter with 23/8-in. ring-shank nails 4 in. on-center. The added nails prevent the sheathing from blowing off with high wind and strengthen the assembly against racking and flexing.

Mark and Photograph the Nails: Once a section has been nailed, the roofer highlights the nail heads with a lumber crayon so they will stand out in photos. Wide-angle and close-up photos geotagged to the project document every part of the Fortified Roof installation.

Make Sheathing Watertight: Once the roof is stripped and swept clean, self-adhered membrane is installed shingle-style over the whole roof. Soffit and ridge venting allow the sheathing to dry under the impermeable layer.

Reinforced Roof Edges

Sturdy, well-fastened edge metal and an adhered starter strip prevent shingles at the edge of the roof from lifting during high winds. Controlling edge lift prevents sections of shingles from blowing off and subsequent water intrusion.

Install Drip Edge: Drip edge is installed on eaves and rakes over the fully adhered underlayment. Nails are placed 4 in. on-center to prevent wind from separating the overhanging drip edge from the roof sheathing.

Use Adhered Starter Strip: The starter strip’s front and back adhesive securely attaches the first course of shingles to the roof deck. The starter is installed on eaves and rakes with a 1/4-in. to 3/4-in. overhang.

Secure Shingles

Installing shingles on a wind-resistant roof takes more care than it does on a conventional roof, where speed is often the primary concern. Roofers must drive nails in the right spots, straight, and with the head tight to the shingle. Post-storm research shows that failed shingle roofs often have overdriven, missing, or poorly placed nails.

Start Strong: The first course of shingles is installed so the shingles line up with the eave edge of the starter strip. Nails are placed every 6 in. between the lines of sealant on the shingle. Snapped lines ensure the shingle courses are straight.

Offset Courses by 6 In.: We roof from left to right, which is more ergonomic for the majority of us who are right-handed, so on this section we started at the rake and worked toward the valley. These 42-in.-long shingles with their 6-in. exposure between courses create little or no waste.

Work Up and Over: Pairs of roofers extend the rows of shingles across the roof, starting at the rake and working toward the valley. One roofer hands the shingles to the other, who places each shingle in the correct position and nails it. Foam from a couch cushion prevents the roofer from sliding.

Nail Close to the Ridge: The final course is nailed like the rest to better resist blow-off at the ridge. The parts of shingles overhanging the ridge will be trimmed when the ridge is capped or covered with ridge vent.

Valleys, Ventilation, and Flashing That Resist Wind and Water

A wind-resistant roof uses components recommended by the insurance industry based on lab testing and post-storm research. All of these components, including flashing boots, ridge vent, and drip edge, have Miami/Dade County approval, the area’s certifying body for the highest wind-resistance standard. For Fortified certification, they are photographed both in their packaging and on the roof after installation.

Woven Valleys: Woven valleys are the preferred valley shingling method for our crews, because they keep shingle edges from being exposed and are protected by multiple overlapping shingle layers. Seams at the ends of shingles are kept at least 12 in. from the center of the valley for watertightness.

Proper Ventilation: Crews measure the ventilation areas at the ridge and soffits to ensure the roof deck can dry to the outside. Generally the code requires 1 sq. ft. of net-free vent area (NFVA) for every 300 sq. ft. of attic space. These ventilation amounts and confirmation that the ridge is open are part of the Fortified Roof documentation.

A Straight, Sturdy Ridge Is Best: Roofers snap lines to ensure that ridge-cap shingles and the ridge vent are straight, both for looks and so that nails have good purchase on both sides of the ridge. The ridge is securely fastened to the roof sheathing and then capped with hip and ridge shingles.

Securely Fastened Hips and Ridge Caps: Color-matched cap shingles are provided by the manufacturer for covering hips and ridges. Every cap shingle is fastened with four nails, with the distance from the ridge staggered on both sides to improve tear resistance.

Hand-Sealing Required: Shingles are hand-sealed to pipe flashings and vent terminations. The roof sealant prevents the shingles from lifting during high wind and prevents wind-driven rain from getting under the shingles.

— Ben Murphy; home builder and roofing contractor in Orange Beach, Ala. Photos by Patrick McCombe.

From Fine Homebuilding #331

RELATED STORIES

  • Bracing for the Storm
  • Why Fortified Standards (and Others Like Them) Matter
  • 9 Upgrades to Windproof Your Roof

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