Micro-Adjust Deck-Baluster Spacing for an Eye-Deceiving Layout
No math, no measuring—just a simple jig made from an elastic band is all you need to lay out a good-looking deck railing.
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Tim Scissons’ 1992 tip in issue #77 of Fine Homebuilding magazine had a cryptic description, but I knew there was a nugget of genius in it.
I played around with the notion Tim presented—using an elastic band to lay out balusters—and developed a simple process to mark out the elastic and employ it to mark out baluster positions.
If you like nanometer precision, then this isn’t for you. If you’re like me and feel a fat-pencil-line level of accuracy is okay for deck-baluster layout, then you’ll probably like the tip.
If you try it, use 3/4-in.- or 1-in.-wide Non-Roll elastic band. I paid about $2.50 for a 9-ft.-long (relaxed) roll.
–IG @mike_guertin
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Cool!
I've always used the rule/tape angled to create even divisions for marking - no need to worry about managing one more 'tool'. Do the same thing laying out wainscotting.
Also learned from a master tilesetter that the spacing on such things can grow incrementally across the length - can be imperceptible increments, but over a distance the difference can be substantial.
I'm a programmer by trade, and this technique is used in code to space objects evenly across an area. Each object's coordinates is nudged by the same factor (just like the stretch in an elastic band). Pretty cool to see it in the meatspace.
I had this thought some time ago, not sure where it came from, but my professional life has included working with fabric, as well as wood. Well, it didn't work out so well for me! When I stretched the elastic and transferred marks to the work piece, it quickly became obvious that spacings were not even. My impression was that the elastic did not stretch evenly, so some marks were closer than others. I'm not talking minor discrepancies that could only be noticed with a millimeter rule. I discovered the issue when I stood back and looked at what I was building. Fortunately only a few balusters had been installed. My only thought is, maybe not all elastic is made the same.
Correct, not all elastic is the same. The key is to use "Non-Roll" elastic. It costs 2x what the cheap stuff does (about $4 for a 9 ft. roll of 3/4 in. wide). It does expand and contract evenly but you do have to snap the elastic before making the jig and when using it - that equalizes the stretch along the length of the band. I've found it accurate to within a fat pencil line - good enough for most work.
It might work once with a piece of elastic but not twice. I saw Tommy do this trick on This Old House years ago so I tried it but did not get consistent results. I use a metric tape which makes diving into even spaces very easy, and consistent.
When the elastic is rolled up it can't be stretched at all. If there's any tension in the elastic it will not relax or stretch the same in the area of stored tension. You can stuff it loosely in a plastic bag or gently roll it up on a stick. I've reused the same elastics for baluster layout and storey pole layout for several years with repeated accuracy.
This is really cool. Amazing! |kansas-city-drywall-services.business.site/?m=true
What was the distance between your marks before stretching out the band?