FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Fine Homebuilding Project Guides

Windows & Doors

Guide Home
  • Choosing Windows
  • Installing Windows In New Walls
  • Retrofitting Windows
  • Window Repairs
  • Door Basics
  • Interior Doors
  • Exterior Doors
How-To

Replacing a Basement Door

Mike Guertin demonstrates the steps for preparing, installing, and flashing long-lasting bulkhead doors.

By Mike Guertin Issue 294 - Oct/Nov 2020
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Synopsis: Replacing bulkhead basement doors means disassembling and removing the old doors and installing the new, but the foundation and wall must be prepped properly for a well-functioning assembly. This article walks through the steps, including addressing any deficiencies in the foundation, preparing the wall for the new door-frame header, and flashing and finishing the new-door installation.


On this house, the existing basement bulkhead door was its second. The original was made from wood and became too difficult for the elderly owners to lift, so they had this steel one with torsion springs installed in the 1960s. But after 50-plus years of service—and several poor paint jobs—it had rusted through in a few spots and was peeling constantly. 

It’s not a surprising situation. Sloped basement doors receive a lot of punishment. Children play on them, owners walk on them to reach the wall above, and they’re exposed to the elements. They’re also close to the ground and prone to damage from lawn equipment such as grass trimmers. Whether site-built out of wood, or manufactured from steel or plastic, they can deteriorate to the point where replacement makes more sense than a repair.

Out with the old

Basement doors are most easily removed piece by piece, just as they’re assembled. The doors and hardware come off first, then the frame is disassembled and removed in parts.

release the doors
Doors and hardware first. Start by removing the pins or bolts from the hardware to release the doors.

Remove fasteners
Remove fasteners. A pry bar often makes quick work of removing the anchors or screws fastening the side panels and sill to the foundation. If a pry bar won’t work, a reciprocating saw and metal blade are in order.

remove the sill
Remove the sill.

unbolt the header
Unbolt the header sections from the side panels.

disengage the side panels
Fold the panels in toward the stair opening until they disengage.

pry down the header
Pry the header piece down from under the siding.

 

Assemble the new door

To make assembly easier, I unbox the new door components and preassemble them on a flat surface rather than try to do it in place on the foundation.

preassemble on a flat surface

clamps as a second set of hands
Set up for success. A couple pieces of sheathing are all you need to make a temporary flat work surface to assemble the new door. I use clamps as a second set of hands to hold the side panels upright.

Seal the connections
Seal the connections. At the header, apply high-quality, clear exterior sealant (I used OSI Quad Invisible) to the joints on both sides before bringing the parts together.

Install the header
Install the header. Position the header piece between the side panels and fasten using the supplied bolts.

set the sill piece
Then set the sill piece into place and fasten.

Prepare the Foundation

With the old door removed, this is the chance to address any deficiencies in the concrete foundation. Here, the previous installer had put sloped mortar around the metal door to keep out water, but it actually held water against the steel and led to corrosion, so it needed to be chiseled and ground away.

chiseled grind flat

 

Check for level
Check for level. Before installing the new door, use a long level to check the foundation for level in all directions. If needed, apply a concrete resurfacer to level out low areas, or use a grinder to level out high spots.

Prepare the wall

The new door-frame header and walls need a flat surface to seal against. This means some adjustments may need to be made when the wall sheathing and underlying framing is on a different plane than the exposed foundation wall below. The wall sheathing can be cut back if it’s proud of the foundation wall, or pressure-treated furring strips can be installed over the foundation wall to pad it flush with the sheathing above.

Remove siding
Remove siding. Strip away enough siding from the wall so the door-frame flange can be placed against the sheathing. Here, I removed three courses of cedar shingles to reveal the sheathing and make it easier to slide in replacement shingles after the door is installed.

Dry-fit the frame
Dry-fit the frame. Center the frame on the foundation and check the seal against the house. Here the 3⁄4-in. sheathing was about 3⁄8 in. proud of the concrete, so I traced the flange on the wall for a cutline.

Trim the sheathing
Trim the sheathing. Use a circular saw with the blade set at the depth to be removed to cut along the flange mark.

follow up with a chisel
Follow up with a chisel to remove the remaining material to recess the flange.

Cap the foundation

For a clean, finished appearance, cut and install metal accessory plates over the top of the old foundation walls. Like the door unit, these foundation plates are powder-coated on all sides.

Cut to fit
Cut to fit. I cut the plates with a tungsten carbide metal-cutting blade in a circular saw; an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel can also be used.

Prime and paint all cut edges
Prime and paint all cut edges.

Install the Plates
Install the Plates. Apply a thick bead of high-quality sealant to the top of the clean foundation before installing the plates.
cap the foundation

Install The Frame

The most accurate way to locate the mounting holes for the door is to set the door in place, and get it plumb and square.

Plumb and square
Plumb and square. Dry-fit the door tight against the house and centered on the foundation plates. Measure diagonals to verify that the unit is square, adjusting as necessary.

Prepare for drilling
Prepare for drilling. Locate and mark the mounting holes on the foundation and walls.

drill through the metal and into the masonry
Through the metal and into the masonry. Start the holes in the foundation plates with a metal-drilling bit, then switch to a masonry drill and bit to finish boring through the thin remaining metal and into the concrete.

Position and shim
Position and shim. Shim the whole unit about 1 in. above the foundation.

Seal
Seal the frame. Apply a bead of sealant along the foundation and walls for the new door frame to bed into.

Bed the frame
Bed the frame. After applying sealant, slide out the shims one at a time and lower the frame, backfilling the areas where the shims were located with sealant.

self-adhering flashing tape
Flash the flange. As added insurance against water, install self-adhering flashing tape at the top corners of the door frame where the side panels meet the header flange to help prevent leaks.

Fasten frame to foundation
Fasten frame to foundation. To permanently attach the frame to the concrete, install hammer-drive anchors around the entire perimeter.

Flash and Finish

With the door in place, complete the installation by flashing the unit to prevent water entry, and installing or replacing the siding.

self-adhered flashing tape
Manage water. Apply self-adhered flashing tape over the header flange of the door, tucking it beneath the water-resistive barrier on the wall.

Seal the unit
Seal the unit. Install manufacturer-supplied weatherstripping around the new door unit.

Patch the siding. Install new shingles above and around the door frame and flange, leaving a 1⁄4-in. space above the header as a capillary break.

From FineHomebuilding #294

To this article as a PDF, please click the View PDF button below.

Mike Guertin (@mike_guertin) is editorial advisor.
Photos by Colin Russell.

View PDF
Previous: New Sliders in a Day Next: Stop Drafts with a Drop-Down Door Seal

Guide

Windows & Doors

Chapter

Exterior Doors

Sign up for eletters today and get the latest how-to from Fine Homebuilding, plus special offers.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Windows & Doors

Windows & Doors

Trusted, comprehensive guidance from the pros for choosing, installing, replacing, and repairing windows and doors on any house

View Project Guide

View All Project Guides »

Become a member and get unlimited site access, including the Windows & Doors Project Guide.

Start Free Trial

Choosing Windows
  • Window Types
  • Design and Materials
  • Energy-Efficient Windows
Installing Windows In New Walls
  • Installation, Start to Finish
  • Head Flashing for Windows
  • Video Series: Nail-Fin Window over Zip System Sheathing
  • Video Series: Nail-Fin Window over Exterior Rigid-Foam Insulation
  • Video Series: Nail-Fin Window over Housewrap
  • Video Series: Nail-Fin Window over Peel-and-Stick Housewrap
  • Video Series: Nail-Fin Window over a Fluid-Applied WRB
  • Video Series: Weatherproof Window Installation
Retrofitting Windows
  • Removing the Old, Installing the New
  • Video Series: How to Replace a Window
  • Video Series: Install a Full-Frame Replacement Window in a Brick Wall
  • Video Series: Install an Insert Replacement Window in a Brick Wall
  • Video Series: Retrofit a Flanged Window
Window Repairs
  • Restoring Old Windows
  • Repairs and Upgrades
Door Basics
  • Tools & Jigs for Door Hanging
  • How to Install Doors
  • Hinges
  • Handles, Knobs, and Locksets
  • Fixing Door Problems
Interior Doors
  • Prehung Doors
  • Pocket Doors
  • Other Types of Doors
  • Custom-Built Doors
Exterior Doors
  • Door Choices and Design
  • Installing Entry Doors
  • Building Exterior Doors
  • Installing French Doors
  • Replacing a Door
  • Adding Weatherstripping and Sweeps

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data