Podcast Episode 676: Drywall Sanders, Collapsing Foundations, and Durability of Post-Frame Posts
Listeners write in about sanding drywall, replacing a failed foundation, and making ground-contact PT posts last longer.
Welcome to the Fine Homebuilding podcast, our weekly discussion of building, remodeling, and design topics aimed at anybody who cares deeply about the craft and science of working on houses. This is senior editor Patrick McCombe. Today I’m joined by a special guest, contractor, FHB contributor, and one of the hosts of the BS* + Beer show on GBA, Travis Brungardt. Our second special guest is a contractor, FHB and GBA contributor, and building scientist, Randy Williams. Finally, thanks and welcome to our producer, Nate Gruca. Please email us your questions to fhbpodcast@finehomebuilding.com.
You can find previous podcasts and check out the show notes at finehomebuilding.com/podcast
If you Know of regional building events or meetups scheduled please write the Podcast an email and we’ll plug your event.
PM: We are very lucky to have a pair of conscientious builders on the show to help with questions and to talk about new stuff going on at FHB and GBA.
Travis, can you please tell folks a little bit about your construction business with Joe Cook? I was mentioning the feature you did for FHB a few years ago because we were talking on the podcast about how bad water management can turn walls to compost. Can you tell us about that job that became a FHB feature?
Catalyst Construction Prairie Village, Kansas
Randy, can you talk a little about your business? We often tell folks to get an energy audit for an informed decision on how to improve their houses. I’m not sure if anyone takes our advice. Maybe you can tell folks why it’s a good idea to have an audit done?
PM: So, Travis, part of why you’re here is to talk about a new partnership between the regional BS* + Beer Symposiums and Fine Homebuilding. Can you please talk about that a little? Maybe first explain what are the BS* + Beer Symposiums?
PM: Randy, you’re going to have a bigger role at GBA, as I understand it. Can you please tell listeners what you’re doing there? For Podcast listeners who may be unfamiliar with GBA, can you describe Green Building Advisor?
Listener Feedback 1:
Brian writes:
Hi Patrick and crew,
I have written in a few times now, and your recent discussion about drywall sanders with Brian and Mike intrigued me. On a whim at Christmas, I bought a sander at Harbor Freight that was on sale $100 (down from $150).
I am an avid DIYer and have gutted two kitchens and remodeled them. I rented the original Porter Cable sander from Home Depot for my first drywall project (three walls and a ceiling), and the results were amazing. Like Mike said in the Podcast, I, too, am not great with tape and mud and need to rely on a good sanding to clean up everything.
I recently borrowed the Porter Cable sander from a coworker for my “new” dining room remodel. I did a gut renovation and attempted a Level 5 finish without texture on the walls or ceiling. The sander helped my poor attempt. Our current house has a popcorn ceiling in two rooms that I want to sand down, and the Harbor Freight sander is the tool I plan to use. I also have a partially gutted room that we plan to make a library that will be finished with drywall. I will write back after I get to those projects and let you know what I think. For As a tools junkie who is not a professional, it may be a great addition to my tool repertoire.
BTW: I have listened since episode 1. And yes, I could also talk about walls for hours with anyone who will listen. I appreciate all you do for us! Take care and happy building.
-Brian
PM: Have you used a drywall sander Travis? What do you think about them? Randy, how about you? What do you think?
RELATED STORIES
Question 1: Can I fix a collapsing foundation with PWF?
Adam from Chittenango writes :
Hello FHB Podcast!
To prove that we are completely crazy, my wife and I have purchased a cabin in the Adirondack Mountains with a collapsing foundation. By collapsing I mean that the CMU walls are hinging into the basement in such a way that the entire wall might drop at any time. One wall has hinged to the point that the concrete blocks in the corner have crumbled into gravel and fallen into the basement.
We have had a local contractor put in temporary cribbing in the basement, so that if a wall does give way the cabin will hopefully not fall into the hole. Assuming the cabin is still standing come next summer, we plan on replacing the foundation one small section at a time. The cabin is on a hill, so we should be able to put in a footing drain that is able to drain to daylight with less than a 20-ft. trench from the cabin.
Our preferred replacement foundation would be a permanent wood foundation (PWF). Assuming that there is a concrete footing under the block wall, our plan would be to just build the new PWF between the footing and the existing cabin.
And here we finally get to the questions!
Is there any problem with using a PWF in glacial till that clearly puts pressure on the foundation? Will the footing drain be enough to reduce the soil pressure?
What would be the best way to seal the new PWF to the hopefully existing irregular footing? My best idea so far is to put a strip of a bituminous membrane down on the footing that is wider than the bottom plate will be, then put two thick beads of acoustical sealant or big-stretch caulk between the membrane and the bottom plate. The membrane would block water from rising through the concrete into the PWF and the sealant should fill in any voids caused by the irregularity of the concrete. The membrane can also give a clean waterproof surface to tape other barriers to, hopefully creating a dry basement.
What is the best way to waterproof the outside of a PWF? I believe the layers should be the PWF plywood, waterproof layer, dimple mat, Rockwool Comfortboard, clear draining gravel, and geotextile. The Rockwool gives some insulation but more importantly protects the dimple mat and the waterproofing from the gravel during backfill. The dimple mat and gravel allow drainage to the footing drain to hopefully relieve the pressure that crushed the first foundation. The geotextile is to keep the gravel from getting clogged over time. I don’t have a clue what waterproofing layers are appropriate for a PWF.
Can a PWF support a Bilco-style door? Since a PWF gets its lateral strength from the foundation below, it seems like the floor joists above can be used for a Bilco door where there is no joists attached to the top?
Is our entire plan insane? Are any of our assumptions just wrong?
Thanks,
Adam from Chittenango
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PS: The next set of questions for the Fine Air-Sealing Podcast will be about the best way to fix the leaking roof!
RELATED STORIES
Question 2: All things post-frame construction
Paul from Stamford, Vt., writes:
Hi,
Just a suggestion regarding deterioration of below-grade posts (episode 670) for barndominiums. Utility companies hire contractors to inject a preservative into the base of the utility pole and plug the hole with what looks a large set screw. My daughter’s neighborhood recently had this done. The plugs are quite obvious. The company around here that the utility companies hire is Osmose. Perhaps this might be a new line of work for them. Just as utilities have this done regularly, perhaps this becomes a regular maintenance item for barndominium owners. I love your show and the hosts. I have become a regular listener along with a subscription to your fine magazine.
Best,
Paul
PM: Randy you’ve written about high-performance barndominiums. We get a surprising number of questions about post-frame buildings. Why do your clients want a post-frame building? From an energy perspective, what are the weak spots and how do you deal with them?
PM: Travis, have you built a post-frame building before? What do you think about them?
RELATED STORIES
- GBA.com: Residential Post-Frame Buildings
- How to Raise a Post-Frame Home
- Celebrating Efficient Post-and-Beam Construction
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Unfortunately that is all the time we have for today. Thanks to Travis, Randy, and Nate for joining me and thanks to all of you for listening. Remember to send us your questions and suggestions to fhbpodcast@finehomebuilding.com and please like, comment, or review us no matter how you’re listening–it helps other folks find our podcast.
Happy Building!
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