Replies

1. 
   Dinosaur | Jul 27, 2008 07:53am | #1

   You did very well to get eight holes out of a bit going through porcelain. I usually only get 3 or 4 max. and the bit is toast.

   Around here, tilesetters charge between 5 and 10 bucks per hole to drill tile for shower-curtain rods, towel bars, etc., unless the holes can be located in the grout lines. HO's always freak when they hear this (because they have no idea how much those bits cost or how few holes they can drill), so it's best to let 'em know up front what the story is.

   Sometimes a HO will get really bent and think you're trying to rip him off, and decide to DIY it...then hits it with a carbide concrete bit in a hammer-drill. And cracks a $40/sf piece of tile and has to call you back to replace it.

   Dinosaur

   How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
   low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
   foolish men call Justice....
   

   

1. 
   sharpblade | Jul 27, 2008 12:10pm | #3

   I recently bought  a bunch through amazon, shipped from another party... different sizes, cheap made in china. but they worked fine, did a whole bathroom with one bit (dozen holes) still working fine. I use high speed with water.

   I also used some 1/8" bit in a dremmel, then wiggled them around to get 3/16"

2. 
   joeh | Jul 27, 2008 09:39am | #2

   Harbor Freight, if you're near one.

   Cheap diamond bits there.

   Since your profile is not filled out, don't know if you're HF close, but they're online also.

   Joe H

3. 
   renosteinke | Jul 28, 2008 01:15am | #4

   I'm a bit confused as to your problem.

   If you're talking about making 1/4" holes to accept screw anchors ... you're not going to use a hole saw.

   For those little holes, I use the arrow-head shaped carbide bits that the make for drilling glass. I start with the smallest, and work my way up in size. Maybe not fast, but the holes are clean, and exactly where you want them to be.

   Sometimes a tile has a hard facing that the bits don't want to bite into. When that happens, I take a center punch and chip a little hole in it; then the bits have something to grab.

   For larger holes, I can see where that would be a problem. Say, a hole large enough for the shower rod to pass through. Here's an idea, though:
   Machine shop supply houses sell a fluid that contains microscopic diamonds. (Sorry, I forget the brand name). I'd get this stuff in a coarse grit, and apply it to the hole saw in place of simple water. Let these diamonds do the cutting.

4. 
   JeffinPA | Jul 28, 2008 04:16am | #5

    I guess I am either lucky or nuts.

   I flip the switch to hammer and apply some healthy pressure. 

    

   I have a multi master so i guess i will be ok if i ever break a tile.

1. 
   Dinosaur | Jul 28, 2008 07:46am | #6

   Jeez, Jeff--save yerself some time. Just mount the towel bars with Ramsets. Use reds to make sure you really slam that pin through the tile....

   <g>

   Kidz, don't try this at home....

   Dinosaur

   How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....

1. 
   JeffinPA | Jul 29, 2008 03:56am | #7

   Say Dinosaur

   Not a bad idea.  The heavier the load, the quicker it will blow thru and less chance of cracking the tile. 

   I think they sell 32 caliber ones now so maybe an upgrade.

   Dont tell me the tiles will break or next time I go after one, it is inevideble.

    

   I recon on that score I have been lucky, but fate gets me elsewhere.

   Hole in the back wall of the house today.  We ripped the windows

1. 
   Dinosaur | Jul 29, 2008 04:06am | #8

   Go for the Gusto.

   I hear Hilti's coming out with a new .45cal depleted-uranium version to drive 1" anchor pins into hardened missle silos.

   Dinosaur

   How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....

1. 
   JeffinPA | Jul 29, 2008 04:43am | #9

   I was thinking I could just pry the lead off of my 44 shells and stuff a 16D common nail into the barrrel and give er hell.

    

   If nothing else it would be entertaining

    

    

2. 
   Dinosaur | Jul 29, 2008 05:04am | #10

   I'll watch from the bunker across the street....

   Dinosaur

   How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....

3. 
   JeffinPA | Jul 29, 2008 01:37pm | #11

   No fun across the  street in the bunker.  I need to be where the action is.

   Maybe put a safe room adjacent to the bathroom and you could hang out there while I set the safety bars.

4. 
   Dinosaur | Jul 30, 2008 06:25am | #13

   Just noticed the OP never checked back to read any of the posts.

   Dinosaur

   How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....

5. 
   JeffinPA | Jul 30, 2008 02:17pm | #14

   Did not know you could check to see who read stuff. 

   How? Just login info that is listed or is there another method?

   You get email when post is to you right?

6. 
   Sphere | Jul 30, 2008 03:16pm | #15

   Just scroll back and the OP's name has a tag next to it that says "unread"..in advanced view at least, I dunno about basic view.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations

   You gonna play that thing?

   http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=32Ln-SpJsy0

7. 
   Dinosaur | Jul 31, 2008 12:37am | #16

   You only get an e-mail notice if you checked that box in your preferences when you set up your account. So if the OP neglected to do that, he could be sitting there steaming thinking we're a bunch o' snobs for not replying to his Q.

   Whatever. I ain't gonna lose any sleep over it....

   Dinosaur

   How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....

8. 
   JeffinPA | Jul 31, 2008 12:46am | #17

   I'd say we took the OP's posting and ran with it. Gotta make sure life stays fun or we all go insane.

9. 
   Tbevel | Aug 04, 2008 06:24am | #18

   Wow, you  guys are checking up on me, not reading the replies.  Seriously I appreciate all the responses and couldn't seem to get the PC sooner. Man, my wife can sure keep me busy, and if any of you laugh, you're lying to yourselves.  [Apologies to the ladies of Breaktime].  The job I mentioned is a new Frat house we are trying to finish on time [Hah!]  and the grab bars are in the public restrooms.  So location  of bar mounts fall where they may. Wood blocking was installed so we just needed to get thru the tile. After searching the net for info I found that tile makers kept changing their methods to make some tile [ like the hard porcelain] more impervious to water. The downside is the stuff is damn hard. We picked up some more bits and managed to finish. I have been reading Fine Homebuilding articles since I stumbled across the books in the library in the mid 90's.  I will hope to find more time soon to visit. Thanks again.

10. 
    Dinosaur | Aug 04, 2008 07:46am | #19

    Glad to have been of some help. And welcome to BT. Just tell DW (your 'Dear Wife') you're doing research; that excuse usually flies for about two or three days....

    Dinosaur

    How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....

11. 
    Sasquatch | Aug 04, 2008 06:22pm | #20

    One thing I have learned about drilling those holes is to do it with water.  I have gotten more than ten holes out of a bit that still works.

    If I drill before the tile is installed, such as the large 1" holes for water shutoffs under a sink, I just submerge the tile 1/2" in my tile saw tray, supporting it with a scrap of 2X.  I drill slowly with a cordless drill.  The bit stays cool and the dust is removed from the cut.

    For drilling on a vertical surface with tiles already in place, the key is to have enough water.  Mist will not do much good.  The two problems are getting enough water and catching the water.

    To get enough water, a slow stream from a garden hose or a 5 gal bucket with a small hose will do quite well.  Hitachi also has kits that use a small plastic reservoir.  These will get you a few holes, but the first two methods are preferable.  In any case, an assistant to direct the water makes the job much easier.

    To catch the water, get a square or rectangular plastic storage container, place it next to the wall under the drilling location, and use duct tape to tape the rim to the wall.  When the water runs down, the duct tape will direct it into the container.

    When I completed a custom shower last year, I already had water available, so I just used the hand sprayer to lubricate and cool the bit.  I flushed the waste down the drain.  So try to wait until the tile is at least installed before you drill for the metal fixtures such as the grab bar.  You don't need to have the walls grouted.  Just wash out the seams well.  I would have the floor grouted, though.

    I find the progressively larger glass bits work great for small holes.  The hollow diamond-tipped bits work just as well, and you only need to drill the hole once.  The main problem with the diamond bits is that they will clog up the tip if you don't keep them flushed.

5. 
   wallyo | Jul 29, 2008 07:50pm | #12

   Last time I ran into this I used a new carbide bit and sharpened it using a diamond file from harbor freight.

   Wallyo