Any suggestions out there for a 10 inch ferrous metal cutting blade for a chopsaw? I’ll use it for 20 ga steel studs.
Thanks, Billy
Any suggestions out there for a 10 inch ferrous metal cutting blade for a chopsaw? I’ll use it for 20 ga steel studs.
Thanks, Billy
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Replies
I'll assume you know mose chop saws aren't designed for cutting metal - not the chop saws we do wood trim with. There probably are blades out there capable of cutting light gauge steel without getting trashed, but I would suspect purely from an economic standpoint you'd be money ahead to spend all of $150 on an abrasive cut off saw and another 20 on a pair of offset snips. My 2 cents
"If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man." - Mark Twain
Thanks for the quick reply. I won't be cutting a lot of steel, so I don't want to get a dedicated cutoff saw. I'm more worried about trashing a good chopsaw than trashing the blade. We're probably talking about 200-400 cuts on 1 5/8 studs. I could use snips but a saw would be much quicker.
On second thought maybe all the hot steel isn't great for the chopsaw, so I could use an old circular saw. Would you suggest using a cheap abrasive blade or something else? With the earplugs, goggles, etc. of course.
Billy
Edited 3/30/2004 6:28 am ET by Billy
When I worked on a hospital remodel, all the tin can carps were using Makitas, about a dozen. Those saws ran 30% duty cycle for 4/10's for months. They had a clamping table, so they might have been special motors, but, IIRC, they said they were just standard saws with the table.
SamT
Thanks. Do you remember if they were using abrasive blades or cutting blades?
I'm new to steel -- using it in a basement remodel.
Billy
Definately cutting. These blades were 1/8" thick and lasted sometimes for two days. Ha. But that's a lot of cuts.
New tin canner, hunh?
As long as your existing chop saw is a chop saw and not a fancy miter saw, it will work fine, IMDO. I'ld buy a metal cutting table for it and service it after the job. Stop by your local welding gas supply and talk to them.
You will also really want to buy 4 vicegrip C clamps that will just open 3", the small ones. Hang 'em on your belt with a non-swivel, metal loop, hammer holster. Clamp everything before you screw . . . up.
I like to use the sombrero head screws. Buy plenty, those screws are awsome for sheet metal work. Also buy 10 tips for each gun, you don't want to run out.
Use a good adjustable torque screwgun. Over torquing will snap bits, and if the two sheets aren't in good contact, can strip holes.
Keep us posted.
SamT
Billy
what about a metal cut-off blade in a 4in angle grinder?
Hold the studs in a V-block with a strap clamp
Ian
That would take 30-90 seconds per cut.
A chop saw with cutoff blade will cut a "2x6" metal stud in 1-1.5 seconds.
SamT
I agree.
a Makita or Hitachi from Amazon would cost about $180 which for 200 to 400 cuts works out at 4.5 to 6 cents per cut ! if it were a Milwaukee, Makita or Hitachi Bill could readily sell it when he's finished. possibly bringing the cost down to less than that for cheap saw and decent blade
I dunno. I'm either getting snooty with age or just too dumb to see another view, but even after reading the other posts, I still think the best (and cleanest, and fastest) route is a cutoff saw. I mean it's chump change, and you don't risk dorking up a good saw and a blade for a miter saw thats going to do what you want is going to cost at least as much and perform only half as well. And heck, if you only have a couple hundred to cut, and you're really penny pinching, you could probably just go rent one for a few bucks a day and give it back when you're done. Not to mention once you frame with steel the love affair will have begun, and as time passes, you'll use that cutoff saw more and more."If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man." - Mark Twain
No, you're not being snooty. We've all been there -- it's just a small job, I'll rig something to make it work, and halfway through you're cursing yourself for not getting the right tool for the job. Thanks for your advice. Any recoomendation on brand, etc?
Billy
Given the great amount of technical aptitude required to design an acceptable cutoff saw, I think that's one tool I'd still buy based on what was on sale. I happen to have a Mil, but man, they're all the same except for the color."If you pick up a starving dog and make him prosperous, he will not bite you. This is the principal difference between a dog and a man." - Mark Twain
Gotcha. Maybe there's a place for Harbor Freight after all... Of course, their sub $50 8 1/4 inch cutoff saw only cuts 3 1/4 inches... Thanks.
Billy
I hate to say this, I mean REALLY hate to say this...
The Ryobi cut off saw we have at the shop works perfectly fine...I don't know what it cost, it's a real no frills saw, not that chop saws are generally full of fancy do-dads, but none the less, it works great for cutting metal studs. It's been put through hell, left out in the rain, knocked over, generally had the crap kicked out of it. I'd actually recommend it if the price was substantially less then the other better manufacturers.
Now if you all excuse me, I'm going to confession
buy a really cheap chop saw and an abrasive type cutting blade
be prepared for a lot of sparks and metal particles
but a 50 buck chopsaw? who cares, it'll be quick and easy and save it for the next dirty jobcaulking is not a piece of trim