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Discussion Forum

16 ga vs. 15 ga Nailers for Trim Work

| Posted in General Discussion on June 18, 2000 02:29am

*
I’ve been sifting through several posts seeking an opinion on what would be a great nailer for trim work. I’m sure both gauge nailers have their pros and cons; however, which would you recommend for someone who’ll be installing crown molding, baseboard, tongue and groove wainscotting, and frame and panel wainscotting? I’ll be using MD, among other materials, and I’m concerned about splitting it with a heavier gauge nailer. What type of nailer (if there is one) would be best for this type of work.

Thanks for the help! (I’m sure I opened Pandora’s box)

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Replies

  1. Guest_ | Jun 14, 2000 02:11am | #1

    *
    Check Archives

    1. Guest_ | Jun 14, 2000 04:06am | #2

      *In my opinion I really don't see where it makes that much difference between 15ga or 16 ga.I'll use my 15 ga nailer when I install interior pre hung doors, I'll use either or for baseboard, caseing, crown, etc. In certain applications of some stain grade material like a hardwood drop edge for a countertop, I like to use my 18 gauge brad nailer with 2" brads as it does not leave as big a hole to fill. On door and window caseing, I will sometimes nail the outside edge of the trim with either of my finish nailers then use my 1/4" crown stapler on the edge of the caseing that attaches to the jamb.There is probably alot more opinions and info on this topic in the archives, but at least now you have my opinion.

  2. Mark_M | Jun 14, 2000 04:23am | #3

    *
    I have always thought that for all practicle purposes 16ga. and 15ga. guns were the same.

  3. Guest_ | Jun 14, 2000 04:51am | #4

    *
    Mark,

    15 ga nail clips are angled as the nailers have an angled magazine. 16 ga nail clips are straight and those nailers have a straight magazine The 15 ga nail is just a little thicker than the 16 ga.

    1. Guest_ | Jun 14, 2000 06:08am | #5

      *90% of the time I prefer 15 gauge nailers. Could be a throw back to hand drives. They seem to hold better. Where splitting or visibility is a issue 16 gauge is fine.Skip

      1. Guest_ | Jun 14, 2000 03:24pm | #6

        *They all have their places unfortunately...Cabinet building adds even more to the mix....slots and hidden scwrews....I am close to picking up an even smaller nailer (20-gauge) because I like to build models of my favorite projects to use as affordable "models" of what we are capable of...near the overflowing for six weeks too long stream,aj

        1. Guest_ | Jun 15, 2000 12:46am | #7

          *If I only had to do one, I'd probably go with a 16 guage because of the low cost and huge variety of nails. I regularly use it for almost all trim work except for final interior door hanging and wood floor stuff--for those, I hang or secure with my 16 guage and then use hand-driven 8d's. I also use hand-driven, usually predrilled, 8ds in situations where I have to really snug up a piece of trim or oversized "block" (like a rosette or plinth). I would love to add a 15 guage, but I'm just not sure (everytime I actually get to the purchase decision), if I'd use it enough to justify buying that over some other tool that I must have. I've been using a JET 16 guage for about 6 years now, but I kind of wish it would die, because I've had my eye on this sweet little Paslode down at the lumber yard...

          1. Guest_ | Jun 15, 2000 06:59am | #8

            *I was a 16g trimmer for years, but have switched to 18g and 15g. My reasons to date and this could change tommorrow. Most of my trim is bright finished, ie, not stained or painted. I started using an 18g. when I want to hide the nails as much as possible. Never been satisfied with putty or wood filler, principal reason being it does not colour the same as the wood over time. So if at all possible I use the 18g. The one limitation though is to date the maximum length is 2" which does not give me much holding grip with 4/4 trim over 5/8 rock. I started using the 15g on a house that specified 15g round head trim nails set flush, no putty, to accent the nails as part of the trim detail. I like the look, a lot more than some putty jobs I have seen. And now the 16g t-head hole looks ragged and out of place. The house I am currently building, is rustic. All nails that are exposed we etch with muriatic acid and wash with peroxide to achieve a rusted brown patina which accents with the old wood beautifully. My 15g nailer will shoot 2-1/2" to 3/4" nails. Anything smaller I use my brad pinner and hide the nails. I am considering experimenting with burnishing for effect on nails for use on more refined trim. Anyways, that is my way of thinking. walk good david

          2. Guest_ | Jun 17, 2000 02:26pm | #9

            *Have used both and found that 15ga. nails seem to resist running out along grain a little better. Also like angled guns as easier to reach into corners, tight spots, etc. Also seem to hold prehung doors in place better while you're shimming. 16ga nailers also seem to have a hard time with standard MDF but work OK on lightweight MDF trim.Like Senco guns, but nails are expensive so use Bostich instead.For crown, have always used 16d casing nails through meaty part of molding into top plate...takes a little while to get the knack of driving without rolling crown but eliminates finding studs and no blocking required(which the builders I worked for never put in anyway) and the crown sure don't come loose. Rub nail on your forehead or side of nose before driving to pick up a little lubrication and you shouldn't have any problems with splitting.If you really want to stick something to a wall, find yourself an old Bostich T-nailer that uses .080"(appr 12ga) t-nails. Makes an atrocious hole to be filled but nothing comes loose nailed with this gun. Sorry, mine's not for sale.

          3. Guest_ | Jun 17, 2000 05:15pm | #10

            *I'd say that one is as good as the other. I don't think I could tell much difference between 15g nails and 16g nails just by looking.Ed. Williams

          4. Guest_ | Jun 17, 2000 07:24pm | #11

            *Fastener price is a consideration, were I get mine 16guage is about half the price of 15s.

          5. Guest_ | Jun 18, 2000 06:45am | #12

            *I prefer 15 gauge. Looking at 15, 16, and 18 gauge trim nails I've noticed that 16 and 18 seem closer than 15 and 16. 15 gauge for most work and lighter gauge where looks are a greater consideration than holding. Skip

          6. Guest_ | Jun 18, 2000 02:29pm | #14

            *I use 18 and 16 mostly; rarely run into something 16 ga won't do, then I borrow one (mostly hardwood floors; I used to handnail the courses near the walls, but GWC tipped me to using a gun). I'll probably add a 15 sometime, but it's another size of nail to stock, and they are a lot more expensive than 16 ga here also.

  4. Tony_Abdalla | Jun 18, 2000 02:29pm | #13

    *
    I've been sifting through several posts seeking an opinion on what would be a great nailer for trim work. I'm sure both gauge nailers have their pros and cons; however, which would you recommend for someone who'll be installing crown molding, baseboard, tongue and groove wainscotting, and frame and panel wainscotting? I'll be using MD, among other materials, and I'm concerned about splitting it with a heavier gauge nailer. What type of nailer (if there is one) would be best for this type of work.

    Thanks for the help! (I'm sure I opened Pandora's box)

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