I am looking for a supplier of reasonably priced 16″ square columns. I do not want wood because of the maintenance issues. The aluminum are like $800 each and the fiberglass I have found are even higher.
I am not opposed to using something non load bearing and installing a basement jack inside to support. Any suggestions or names of suppliers appreciated.
Danny
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Replies
It seems to me that the suppliers and you have a differing opinion on "reasonably price". The only ideas that I can suggest would be better wood for lower maintenance issues. To my way of thinking, wood columns don't need to have a lot of maintenance. If they were done properly in the first place. Otherwise start searching websites for Columns. Good luck
Dan
why not build the columns out of treated wood and then wrap them in aluminum .Have the aluminum broke in some crease form to give it strength .should also be able to make it water tight .
ANDYSZ2
dan- there is a plastic out called U.M.H.W.(ultra high molecular weight) is a high tech self lubricating plastic that lets work pieces slide on machines. you use on a plywood substrate, epoxy to join it, works like wood. and is around 25.00 for 3/4x4'x8' although heavy .have used it before, on a greenhouse/ atrium for trim inside and out. i'm sure you have seen it before in supermarkets, for cutting boards, and hot plates. with a saw ,router, miter saw, marine adhesive, epoxy, sandpaper, band clamps, drill , filler for the epoxy. it worked well. my two cents cheers bear
Edited 10/27/2002 10:33:26 AM ET by the bear
Take into consideration that UHMW expands/contracts significantly with temp. changes. I've installed miles of it for wear surfaces (conveyor bottoms, transfer chain runners, etc.). We always slotted the connection points or it would buckle.
how much is significantly notch lets say for a board foot, any idea??how muchof a slot , do you put in..i was over at the greenhouse/atrium in first week in march than did a pergola(in redwood) at that same house in july and the diffrence was minimal all around. and around here the temp was drastic between those months.and noticed very little change. we did shelves, casings, a utility sink, work area. we used around 600 dollars worth at 25.00 bucks a sheet perhaps your right with that much of the material especially at the corners , hhhhmmm maybe you are right , it does kinda make sense depending on the thickness. we used 3/4"........ i'm somewhat of a fan of this stuff for a wet/humid area the consistency as you know is kinda like a cheap version of corian. and for potting sheds, greenhouses, animal grooming areas, barns , next month we'll be doing for a equine vet a triage room/ grooming area. if you could let me know how much it does move i'd appreciate that. thanks notch.......cheers bear
3/4" is pretty hurky stuff. We'd use that in 4" X 10' strips in transfer chain raceways with counterbored holes with allen-headed capscrews, and attaching it at one end and letting the rest of the piece "float" in the direction of chain travel.
In conveyor bottoms, we usually used 3/8" or 1/2" and nailed it to the steel bottom with powder actuated nail guns. Again, we'd let the downstream float. Occasionally, someone would nail the whole sheet of UHMW down on about 2 foot centers and in a short time it would be standing up about an inch in that 2 feet which was not good because crap would build up underneath the himoly and begin to rip it loose from its moorings.
I've never seen it used in the applications you're describing so I'm not doubting you (your previous posts attest to your knowledge), I'm just a little skeptical based on my own experience with it.
It's a great material, no question. The drawer glides in my shop are made of little scraps of it as is a bench drill index I made out of a block of it. And, as you say, it's REALLY tough in a wearing environment, yet is easy to work with. (It also makes fairly decent sawdust shears for small shop bandsaws).
One other thing to look into is the durometer ratings. If I recall, the different colors signify the hardness or density. We used mostly green in the sawmills, but I've also used white, red and black for different things.
Keep me posted on what you come up with....I could use a refresher or a brain realignment. I'd also like to know what adhesive works on it. I can't even imagine that it would hold paint, but, hey, I'm always up for a new idea.
notch- well bud i'm more focused on gaining and applying knowledge, i'm neither the dullest nor the sharpest knife in the drawer. i have bundles of new ideas, and when i go to apply them sometimes i find details are the most important things. so anyhow that's why i'm inquiring so i'll always listen ...very carefully and if you doubt it will work, well i've got thick skin.... so anyhow i've used three adhesives that work well , to laminate or join to another piece or attach to a large substrate the same or other i use west system epoxy, a foam adhesive , and pl premium . but mostly good ole west system does the trick all around. the foam adhesive name escapes me, it is a polyurethane base i go threw alot of gloves for that job , and the stuff is not cheap but does go along way. i think it went 30.00 bucks for a canister. anyhow thanks for the reply , i'm a little froggy worked late, and the shower is callin' staywell bear
I've boughgt a multitude of round columns in wood and in composite priced from 230 to 1300 and sixed up to 12".
The price you are hearing sounds quite reasonable to me.
Excellence is its own reward!
why don’t you build them out of concrete .
should not be to hard cut dowel in half and nail inside the form to make the flutes. to take up space in the center pvc pipe or a cardboard tube. don’t for get the rebar.