I have two big Andersen Gliding Patio doors and one operates with no problem and one sticks, especially in the winter. During the summer the door seems to open a bit better where as in the winter you can’t open it more than a foot.
I believe the doors are original to the house which was built in 1988. It looks like the frame is swelling in the middle so I’m thinking it’s due to water issues with the framing.
Im wondering if I take the doors off and the framing of the door out and fix the frame the door is in and then reinstall will I be able to get the frame to sit down flat.
Im also curious to know if anyone knows where I could find installation instructions for this door and how I figure out what model it might be.
Thanks in advance for the help!!!
Replies
I'd check Andersen's site for installation instructions, but those doors are as old as my marriage! I'm gonna guess that no one thinks either one needs instructions anymore.
If you take the doors out, you should probably be prepared to replace them. It's likely you'll find something unexpected that would make reinstalling a 34 year old slider a bad idea. In fact, the seals on the glass are probably long gone.
Freeze expansion under the track might be the cause in the winter.
Or
As Andy suggests.
Or
Step 1
Open the patio door. Search inside the top or side of the jamb for a product sticker. If your Andersen door is circa 2007 or later, the product sticker will be on one of these jambs. The sticker will show the product identification number--for example, "Prod Id 211 -070731 -00678," as well as the Andersen Window phone number. If there is no product sticker, Andersen product support will require several details to identify your patio door.
Step 2
Identify the primary patio door type. If the door slides from left to right within a track, it is a gliding patio door. If the doors have hinges and swing inward, it is a hinged patio door. If the doors swing outward, it is an outswing patio door.
Step 3
Observe and note the color of the door frames and ornamental grilles, if present. Exterior frame color choices are white, sandtone (light grey), terratone (dark grey), forest green, cocoa bean (brown) or custom color. Inside frame colors include all exterior colors, plus pine, oak and maple. Check whether the ornamental grille is between the panes of glass, inside the door and removable, or absent. Note the color of the grille. Choices are white, sandtone, terratone or stainless steel.
Step 4
Look for the Andersen glass logo; it will be in one of the four corners of each sheet of glass. Write down all words and numbers surrounding the logo. The logo will have the word "Andersen" with a capital "AW" underneath. An example description might be "Below the AW is TWindow Herculite K. Beneath that is ANSI Z 97 1 1972 3/16 inch U for DS-U. The next line is Tempered Safety Glass and the next line is SGCC058 11673."
Step 5
Measure in inches the width and height of the exposed glass, from inside edge to inside edge. Count the number of glass door panels in the patio unit; there will be two, three or four.
Step 6
Phone Andersen Windows with all the details, and they will identify your patio door model. The phone number is 1-888-888-7020.
Have you ever attempted to adjust the rollers?
I have tried adjust rollers and I’ve taken the door off and cleaned the rollers out too. The top of the door hits the frame in the middle of the frame as it’s sliding back. It looks like there is no flashing either.
Sagging header? Or bottom bowed up? Have you used a long level or straight edge to find out which?
In one development here I have adjusted/repaired several LARGE Andersen sliding door/walls of glass. If that wasn’t enough, large transoms above. Seasonal like your problem only binding in the summer months.
All had a stone step lipped under down to a concrete patio. In their case, either heaved up in the middle (or settled at each end) and/or a sagged header above.
These were 14 to 16 ft openings. A pair of sliders flanked by fixed panels.
Sometimes I could suck up the top jamb With screws....
In some cases replacing the wheels and/or adjusting them took care of the problem.
Others I had to remove the sliders and cut a bit off the top of the panels.
This development had maybe 30 units. I could have set up shop I’m sure doing the repairs as new units would have run these folks $$$. But as my age got older, the panels heavier......I luckily retired before I couldn’t put the panels back in.
Best of luck.
Now that you say it, it is luckily that each end has sagged. When I ripped out the old floor and put new flooring in I had to self level in those areas! Now that I know what the problem is I wonder if I can shim your each end of if it’s still just easier to take the door out, level what it’s sitting on and reinstall it.
I hope it works for you! Half the battle is locating the cause. The other 3/4’s is solving it.
Please remember to report back. If nothing else it will give another page in making things work!
It's my understanding that Anderson guarantees its products for life. Contact Anderson and check. If your doors are covered, they'll send out installers to fix the problem. NOTE: Make sure you get a seasoned guy/gal (mostly its guys). Don't let them send you a young kid who remarks "That's just the way it is." I 've had that experience with a young kid and was all over Anderson about that. Now I have the card of a seasoned Anderson installer who runs a 35-acre ranch. Seasoned.