I am trying to mount my 37″ LCD tv above my mantel. The plaster and lath is about 3/4″ thick and mounted about 1″ out from the chimney. I have removed it and intend to replace it with drywall or concrete board. Not sure what the code requirements are for flammable materials and their proximity to a chimney/fireplace.
So between the finish wall surface and the chimney there is 1 3/4″ of material that leaves my lag bolts entering the mortar for 3/4″. I assume bricks are about 2″ deep.
So I have a few questions I was hoping you could answer for me.
Is 3/4″ enough penetration into the mortar or should I find some longer lag bolts?
I was thinking of mounting 1x material between my lcd mount and the chimney, should this be concrete board or could I just use 1x pine before finishing the wall with drywall?
Should my lag bolt go into the mortar or the brick? I think I’ve read it is best to place the bolt into the mortar.
What does code say about material around a fireplace/chimney?
Other ideas?
Thanks for all suggestions.
learner
Replies
I assume bricks are about 2" deep.
Bad assumption. Approx. 4" deep and they should be at least 2 thick at the area you're trying to mount to.
Is 3/4" enough penetration into the mortar or should I find some longer lag bolts?
No & yes.
should this be concrete board or could I just use 1x pine
Probably concrete board.
Should my lag bolt go into the mortar or the brick?
In the brick will be stroner.
http://grantlogan.net/
I was born in a crossfire hurricane..........shooby dooby do
3/4" is not enough, find longer lags as seeyou suggested.
Anchors go into brick, not in the mortar.
Google "alligator anchors" - not to be confused with common drywall anchors. They have some pretty amazing pull out and shear specs. I used the AF8's today in brick.
When you get to their website check out the pull out table for solid walls which is the spec which will apply for your application - also note that the best pull out performance is obtained when the fastener diameter = the anchor diameter. Make sure you bore the holes in the brick deep enough to handle the elongation of the anchor during installation.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
There is an article in FHB #186 (May 2007) by Gary Katz about building a double mantle to mount a flat-screen TV over a fireplace. You might want to take a look at that.
I personally am not convinced it is a good idea to mount delicate electronics that near a heat source of that capacity (unless your fireplace is strictly decorative, of course).
In any event, now that you have removed the plaster and lathe on your chimney, you need to run metal furring vertically up the face of the brick on 16" centers, and mount ½" cement board to that. To mount the metal furring strips, use Tap-Cons. To mount the cement board to the furring, use the special cement-board screws sold specifically for that purpose, not gyprock screws.
That will get you 1¼" off the wall, leaving you a half-inch for your finish material to bring you flush with the surrounding plaster. Note: Leave a ½" space at the bottom and top of the cement board so air can circulate behind the it to evacuate heat. You may hide the spaces with floating trim elements but do not block them.
The lag anchors should penetrate 1¾" into the brick, not the mortar. You should use lead anchors. You should drill clearance holes through the cement board and use ½" copper pipe cut to the proper length as solid spacers so your mounting plate is bolted to the brick, not to the cement board.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
foolish men call Justice....
Edited 9/13/2007 11:35 pm ET by Dinosaur
I'll check out that article!I take it I should use 1 3/4" tap-cons for the furring and mount into the brick right? My chimney is 21" wide and there are already 2x4 studs right up against each side in this case I can use these as nailing edges so do I really need metal furring strips?In terms of the 1/2" space at the bottom and top of the cement board in my case that would be 1/2" below the ceiling and 1/2" above the mantel. If I put crown moulding on the top then I could leave a gap say 1/8" between the crown and the ceiling which would allow the air to come into the 1/2" gap and circulate. For the mantel I am not sure what the best approach would be to hide the gap. In terms of the clearance holes I assume that I drill holes in the concrete board which allow the 1/2" copper to sit flush with the top of my finish material. The lag bolt washers would then press up against copper which would in turn press up against the brick. Sound right?Thanks everyone for all their responses! They have been quite helpful. learner
Warning Will Robinson!!!!
Warning!You have gotten a lot of good advice already, but I would go further in being conservative on this.
To begin with, a flat panel TV is very heavy with a mount, and it also is a heat generator that needs good ventilation. Keep all that in mind.But the big thing that stands out in my mind on this one is that the presence of the paster and lathe suggests to me that this is an old home, perhas very old.Standards for chimneys were somewhat different in past ages. Many of them had NO FLUE LINER and only the one wythe of brick between the fire/smoke channel and your living space. I have witnessed a numbner of house fires where the flames wicked through the mortar into the wall space after the mortar died over the years.So if you have no flue liner and you penetrate the brick with fasteners, you will create fractures that will grow and let flame or toxic fumes into the house.if that is the sort of structure you have I would not n any way penetrate that chimney to hang the TV. I would find a way to rebuild the wall to span the opening independent of the masonry, which is the right way anyhow to build the wall. Something like using 3/4" MDO ply as a structural finish material that can be skim coated right smooth with the rest of the wall. it can be re-inforced from back with metal studding or hat without contact to the masonry, and fastened to the studding on either side of the chimney that you still have there. Being plywood, it will hold your fasteners for the TV mount
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Good points everyone. I'll try to cover all points from the set of posts here. The house is likely from 1920ish so it is relatively old. I am not too sure how to tell if there is a flue liner - I was planning on getting someone out to clean and inspect the fireplace anyway so I'll try to get their opinion on what to do as well.I'll hold off on attaching plywood to the studs until I see what the fireplace guy says. If the fireplace guy says the 3/4" plywood is fine do you think 3/4" penetration from the lag bolts is enough to hold the mount and hence tv? I was kind of hoping that if in the future I decide to upgrade to say a 50" that I would be able to change mounts without too much hasel.The mount is a metal plate that takes 2 lag bolts. The metal plate then has a couple arms which bolt to the back of the tv. The arms then hook into the metal plate.I did the exact same install at the last 1920 house I was in except in that case there happened to be a stud dead center on the chimney so the install was very easy - complete opposite of this one.I don't really want to use the stand that came with the tv as the mount is quite a bit more flexible - I can change the angle of the tv wrt the wall and put the tv a little higher than the mantle and use the mantle for my front speaker. Plus I've already gone to all this effort to remove the lath and plaster.In terms of getting the signal to the tv I am thinking that while I have the wall open I'll run some conduit so that I can fish RCA or component cable through the wall to my amp and have an outlet put behind the tv so I have a seemingly wireless install - that is getting a little ahead of myself though as at this point I'd just be happy getting to the point where I can mount the tv.Thanks for all the helpful advice!!!
I take it I should use 1 3/4" tap-cons for the furring and mount into the brick right?1¾" might be a bit too long for the Tapcons; if you have trouble driving them home before they snap off or strip out, use 1½". Drive them into the brick if possible; make sure you clean the dust out of the brick before screwing them in. Compressed air works well for that.
Also make sure you don't squash the metal furring by running the Tapcons down too hard.
My chimney is 21" wide and there are already 2x4 studs right up against each side in this case I can use these as nailing edges so do I really need metal furring strips?
I understand you probably have wood framing up against the chimney from the original construction, but today's codes in most places don't allow that. The point of the furring strips is to space the concrete board off the chimney with something non-flammable so air can circulate behind it and evacuate the heat. In the case of a chimney fire, this could make the difference between just burning the creosote out of your flue and charring the framing or burning the whole house down.
If you want to do it right, you'll have to strip the whole chimney of plaster, lathe, and framing and re-do it with metal furring, cement board and so forth. That may be more than you want to get into, but you should at least do the new portion right.
If I put crown moulding on the top then I could leave a gap say 1/8" between the crown and the ceiling which would allow the air to come into the 1/2" gap and circulate. For the mantel I am not sure what the best approach would be to hide the gap.
For the crown moulding, yes that will work but a better idea would be to find some sort of attractive grillwork--either wood or metal--and use that to 'close' the gaps both top and bottom. You could also build in a strip of metal soffit vent to the cement board a few inches up from the bottom and a few inches down from the top, and spray-enamel the metal to match the finish paint. If you do that, you can run the cement board from mantle to ceiling and run your moulding normally.
the clearance holes I assume that I drill holes in the concrete board which allow the 1/2" copper to sit flush with the top of my finish material. The lag bolt washers would then press up against copper which would in turn press up against the brick. Sound right?
Yes, exactly.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
I'm slow, so bear with me. Are you planning to use anchors into your brick chimney? Doesn't that present a problem by making penetrations into the flue? Or is there a flue inside the chimney brick?
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
What kind of mount are you using? If it's an articulating arm, a piece of plywood, screwed to the brick and covered with drywall, making the surface flush will work. If it's a static mount (the kind where it lays flay against the wall, or it could tilt), a 37" isn't that heavy that the wall will buckle if there are studs or firring strips and you can center the mount on them. You didn't say what the span of the lathe and plaster is but it has to have something vertical, adding support.
Plywood should only be used if the chimney doesn't get hot. If it does, as some have said, non-wood materials should be used.
How are you getting power and signal to the LCD? Is the LCD going to be just above the mantle? If so, why not use the base it comes with and use a strap to keep it from falling over?
3/4" is not enough depth in the brick or mortar.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Edited 9/14/2007 9:25 am by highfigh
My chimney is 21" wide and there are already 2x4 studs right up against each side. So the span on the lath was 23" oc, 19" further of to the side. Unfortunately if I fastened the mount to either stud on the side of the chimney it would completely throw off the symmetry of the room. Building out the wall was another option I thought about but it would be a lot of work also as there is a window on each side and baseboards on the two walls that intersect not to mention the mantel and crown molding and having to refinish the whole wall. At that point I'd have to start thinking about putting insulation in the wall as it is an exterior wall and has no insulation and while I am at it I should likely vapour barrier it. In addition that side of the house is on a noisey traffic street so I should really look into using the 6x dense drywall board that prevents noise and upgrading the windows into accoustic windows. I was rather hoping to avoid a lot of work and get away with about 8 hours of effort - still hoping =)Thanks for the reply.
There's generally an air space around a chimney and it used to be that 2" was recommended. Plastic vapor barrier isn't something that you want near hot materials. You could center the mount on the wall, mark the holes and use a stack of fender washers as a stand-off, only as thick as the distance from the brick to the painted surface. You won't compress the washers, you won't need to do anything heroic as far as the wall surfaces and with an LCD being as light as they are, generally, it won't fall off if the lags have a good bite into the bricks. You could use metal sleeves, too. Drill into the bricks, tap the sleeves in and bolt it up. I mounted a 23 rack unit Middle Atlantic equipment rack on a wall in late winter and with all of the gear and door mounted, it has to weight 400 lbs. I had the luxury of being able to mount a sheet of 3/4" plywood on the wall first, but it's not going anywhere. Sounds like you're using a static mount and not the small footprint arm, so don't worry about it falling off- use 6-8 lags and it'll be on there for a long time. You still haven't said anything about the wiring and how you're going to get that to the LCD. Are you going behind the wall with this? Running a power cord behind a wall without protecting it is a bad idea.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
I'll see what the chimney inspection/cleaning guy says about the brick and whether I can drill into it. I was thinking I might just look into hangers and stack another 2x4 onto the ones on either side of the chimney and then use a couple more as block and a final 2x4 in the middle which I would then mount to. Once the wall was finished this would result in a pop out look for the area where the tv would be mounted but in the case where I don't want a tv there I could always place a large framed picture over top the space. In terms of protecting wiring are you concerned about the heat? I was thinking of mounting an outlet box to the side of this pop out framing so that I could have the power cord only visible from the back. I did find when I opened the wall that there was a thin saucer outlet box dead center in the middle of the chimney. It still had a live wire going to it but was filled with plaster and painted over to be flush with the wall. Glad I found that and am going to get rid of it but it does leave me with pre drilled holes for my new box which I could mount on the inside wall of this new pop-out framing. In terms of the 14/2 you think I should go with bx in case the chimney does heat up?Thanks for the response and advice!learner
I would replace the wiring A) because it's old and B) connect it to the same circuit as the audio and video sources so noise won't be an issue. Grounding problems cause hum, snapping sounds and noise bars on the TV if they're bad enough. New electronics really want and need clean power and old wiring won't supply it. You didn't say if you have a basement but if you can use conduit, that would be best. Again, a 37" LCD isn't particularly heavy but if you have room, time and desire, setting it up for a larger set is a good idea. If you want to avoid being stuck with the cabling you run the first time, some kind of flexible conduit for the low-voltage wiring is a good idea. The new HDMI is being accepted more, it's better than the original and the industry is stepping up with more standards for the cables, which means that the equipment makers will be using different connectors, that may or may not allow connection to older cabling. With flexible conduit (not the flimsy black stuff that's split along the length), if you need to run something else, you can either use a pull cord (that should be run with the initial cables) or you can pull everything and attach the new one, so the whole bundle can be pulled back.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
"I was rather hoping to avoid a lot of work and get away with about 8 hours of effort - still hoping =)"LOL
There was an article in Smart Money magazine a couple months ago about people who bought a wall mount and soon found themselves doing hundreds or thousands of dollars work to make it haappen, even to the point of ending up remodeling...;)
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I am feeling their pain.
"Plywood should only be used if the chimney doesn't get hot."Hunh?It's a CHIMNEY! It is intended to get hot.
Even if it only gets warm in normal use, a chimney fire can melt mortar. That's HOT.That is why codes require that combustible materials be kept 2" spaced off and not in direct contact, which is why I suggested the MDO Plywod be atacked to flanking studding that is not in contact.
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Doesn't get hot, as in, somehow just doesn't get particularly hot, never used/abandoned "just there for looks". I already commented on the 2" space and how this one is less than usual, how much more can I CMA?
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
So assuming that I intend to use the fireplace, should I remove the plaster and lath from all sides of the chimney, cut out the current 2x4 and put new ones in about 2" away from the chimney on the sides, then at the front of the chimney do the same. Another issue would be the exterior boards are likely nailed to these 2x4 that are right next to and vertical to the chimney so I'd then have to go outside and break some stucco out to re-attach the boards to the new 2x4. Assuming the framing is out 2" from the chimney can I then use vapour barrier in the regular fashion?The mantel is 10.5" out from the plaster which is 1.5" out from the chimney so if I put 2" airspace and then 2"x or 1" on side and then covered with drywall that would put me digging into the mantel by 2" so I'd still have quite a fairly deep mantel it would just have a portion in the middle which was less deep and the chimney would be flared out from the wall. I know you guys like pictures so I've attached a couple. One with the two side windows in relation to the fireplace and the other of the fireplace front on with the plaster removed. I resized them - hopefully small enough - if not I can resize them again.learner
Edited 9/14/2007 9:19 pm ET by learner
OK! Photos help a lot.I am half convincing myself that this does have clay flue liner, but there are odd things about that masonry there. no sign of a smoke shelf and throat or space for a damper. Does it have a damper?
Small firebox - reminds me of coal burning fireplaces. Is it cast iron lined?
The studs in contact with the chimney bother me. What do they land on? They are too close to fire source. I don't believe they are structural so they could be moved off from the chimney without breaking a leg. Well, maybe not, since this is an exterior chimney and wall...
On the other hand, a DIY could possibly assume that if they haven't caught fire in 85 years, they are not likely to.Except that wood changes chemically when expossed to repeated heating such as is possible in that location. That lowers the flash point where spontaneous combustion is more likely. I'll bet the wood structure is very dry and brittle even if there is no charring.The simplest solution here does not involve any attachemnt to the chimney. That is usually a bad idea anyways on general principles. The wood structure moves independently of a masonry one with thermal changes so having one anchored directly to the other is fraught with perils.In your case, if there is no charring of the studs there and not too dried out, I might be inclined to patch the plaster back, then
Attach that MDO ply over the plaster, even spacing it out an inch, and surronding it with some sort of bolection molding. The ply would not be attached to the chimney, but to the studding. It would be sized proportionately to the space and would be appropriate for adding a mirror or art later if you want to change this display or sell the house.But doing it right means tearing the wall apart, making sure the FP is safe, and rebuilding around it, maybe projecting the wall into the living space a few inches.Another option would be to throw the TV out and spend morte time at Breaktime. We are more interesting anyways!
;)
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I'll examine the studs in more detail tomorrow. The fireplace does appear to have a damper. Here are two more pictures, one looking up the inside of the fireplace and one more of a zoom of the fireplace enclosure.If you were to reframe around the fireplace would you put studs the 2" out from it and then use concrete board or since the material would be 4" or 3.5" away from the chimney just use normal drywall?Thanks again,learner
Yes, that is a damper, looking primitive and maybe home-made, but effective. The grate looks like designed for coal too.Coal burns hotter but developes far less chance of a chimney fire inasmuch as it makes soot, but not creosote. That was good relative to the issue of studs in contact, but if you now plan to burn wood, it becomes more of an issue. If you were to ever use a wood stove or insert at that chimeny it becomes evven more of an issue.If I did the work, I would only do it to modern standards, meaning Yes, I would reframe so the studding is 2" from the masonry, but then you can use sheetrock.But that depends on whether there is a clay flue liner.If you were to look down from the roof into this chimney, it would be clear to yuou whether the inside is smooth clay or irregular brick.
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Thanks again for all the replies. I want to do it to modern standards but I think there are realistically too many requirements especially if I take into account earthquake proofing it. I found a couple links one by American Wood Council on framing a chimney in wood and another by FEMA on how to earthquake proof a chimney.http://www.awc.org/pdf/WCD1-300.pdf
http://www.bssconline.org/Homebuilders_Guide/Chapter7.pdfThe earthquake one says the chimney must have re-bar embedded within it's full height inside the mortar. There are additional strapping rules as well for each floor that the chimney passes through or near. The one thing that it did get me to thinking about with the 2" rule is that it would appear to me that you have to choose to either fully encase your chimney in framing and surround it with a 2" air space or keep the chimney fully separate from your framing and allow a 2" air space b/t your house and your chimney. In my case the chimney is rather half in the house and half outside. So unless I cut away 2" of stucco on each side of the chimney the stucco boards are going to be touching the chimney. I think I'll ignore this particular detail but would you? I am just curious how exactly you'd address it?learner
The 2" rule is for FRAMING combustibles in direct contact. Trim can still be brought to the masonry surface where it abutts. This is partly because obviously nobody wants a 2" hole in their wall to the outside right there at the heat source making it drafty. The other part is that you would be able to see charring at the trim touching and deal with it. Framing that is hidden can and does catch fire spontaneously, with no-one ever seeing it and it they noticed smoke, there would be delay in getting water of fire retardant to it, as they tore the wall apart.
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Good point on the framing vs trim. Here are a couple pictures of the framing, I decided I might as well remove the whole plaster and lath wall once I had started and insulate it. I am still trying to decide what to do in terms of framing it. I was thinking instead of removing the studs next to the chimney which do not appear to be scortched at all I could install some sheet metal bent to conform to the stud to protect them. The other option is to remove the studding that is in contact. If I did decide to remove the studding then that means I'd remove the two jack studs beside the thin section of chimney and I'd have to remove the larger king stud that runs only beside the firebox section of chimney. In this case would you replace it with metal studding or just put a couple new king studs in place and then cut out the old ones?This is an exterior wall on the gable side of the house. The top plate of this wall is divided on the left most jack stud. Even though the structure looks like it shouldn't be bearing too much - the 1x4 seem to be holding the jack studs resting plate except on the right where there is another jack stud helping the 1x4 transfer the weight - though there is a horizontal gap so I don't think it is doing much of anything.
Edited 9/26/2007 1:25 pm ET by learner
Well, I see you've been busy son! Even got that vacuum standing handy.;)I want to say as long as you've gone this far...Is that sheathing on the exterior or is that the back side of cedar siding we are looking at? The water stains suggest the latter.There is a lot to the theory that if it ain't broke, don't fix it.But at he same time, I would remind you to review a few other facts...That this may well have been used mostly as a coal burning FP, not wood, so if you are going forward with it as a wood burner, there is in the future an increased chance of a chimney fire.That wood can become more flammable as it ages and dries, especially when exposed to repeated instances of excessive heat.That this may not have a fire clay flue - I don't recall...If I were reframing this ( which as a contractor I would do to avoid liability as much as to increase safety ) I would hang a 2x8 to the front of the king studs and run 2x4s flat wise up to the top plate, thus pulling the entire face of the upper front forward 1-1/2" and out of contact with the masonry. The distance from the firebox to the king studs makes those safe. As a homeowner, I might leave it as is providing that I satisfied myself that there is a clay flue liner, that there is NO charring, and that I regularly clean the chimney flue
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Thanks, that helps! Now when you say hang the 2x8 to the front of the king studs does this mean hang the 2x8 perpendicular to the king studs?Also in this case which portion of the existing framing are you removing? All the jack studs, jack stud plate and the portion of the top plate that is closer to the thin chimney than the king studs?I did have the fireplace inspector/cleaner come by. He says he has been in business for 25 years. I am pretty sure he said the chimney does not have a clay flue but he said the bricks are in great shape and that I can have a wood fire in there. I asked him about the framing and he said all the chimney/fireplaces in the old houses in the city are like that. He said if you build new you'd build to code but he kind of figures it is good as is. He did find that the chimney is missing a rain cap - it does rain down the chimney sometimes, that the flashing is not step flashing it is just chalked to the sides and he said I should eventually have the chimney rebuilt from the roof line up.That is exterior sheathing, there is tar paper on it and over that a layer of stucco. Not sure about the water stains I'll have to take a closer look at that before I seal up the wall.Thanks again for the help!learner
The water stains I see are where the sheathing is in contact with the chimney. Poor flashing would explain that.If you are thinking of a rebuilt top, might as well go to the throat and line it all the way up to th e top,That makes a stranger case for eliminating the full contact now.The 2x8 would be run with the 7-1/4" face facing you, like a header.I'll go back and see if I can sketch it or find a photo of mine.
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Frame it out like this more or less.
Move the studs in wall in full contact back 2" or leave them there, and add more behind them so when you rebuild chimney later they can be sawsalled out from th exterior.run a 3/4" MDO over this framing, sheetrock or plaster board to it and trim at the bumpout corners.Am also attaching a shot or two of what CAN happen with bad mortar and full contact framing. The owners probably never knew how close they came... edit - I forgot to answer that I would probably take out those cripples right in behind where the mantle was too, unless they are encaptured by masonry where you might damage it by removing them.
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Edited 9/26/2007 4:54 pm ET by Piffin
Great thanks for the picture!! I had envisioned it quite differently =)Just a couple questions, if I put the 2x8 running horizontal across the king studs that puts its face within 1/2" of the chimney near its throat , same thing with the 2x4 across the top plate. Attaching drywall then to the 2x8 and 2x4 would put the drywall 1&1/2 out from the chimney then but the two new framing members would be too close wouldn't they?I was thinking maybe I should put 2, 2x8s laminated to the outer edge of the king studs and that would put any finish material 4" out from the chimney. I could then also put a 2x4 horizontal face front in between the 2x8 and its back would be >2" from the chimney, then I could put another 2x4 face overlapping the edges of the 2x8 directly on top of the first 2x4. This would give my lag bolt 4" of wood to screw into.Here's my picture of my thought. The white is the 2x8 material. The red is the first 2x4 and the blue is a slight offset 2x4 to show the layering.What do you think?Thanks again for the diagram, very helpful!!learner
Seems that could work too
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Great! Thanks for the help.I've now removed all framing that was too close. I took another look outside and there isn't any stucco attached to the tng shealthing it looks like there is just brick up against it. The shealthing was also nailed to the 2x material that I removed and the section of the shealthing closest to the chimney is now somewhat floating. In the case where the outside is brick do I really need the sheathing behind it? There is tar paper over the outside of the shealthing between it and the brick.Here are a couple pictures.
I'd thought that you'd said the exterior of that wall was stucco...Definitely leave the sheathing there to support teh tarpaper. That is what keeps most of the water out of the wall.
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Yeah I did, the exterior wall is behind a large hedge and I guess I didn't look too closely. The rest of the house is stucco.I'll leave the sheathing in place. Thanks again!learner
The more I look at that wall, the more I believe it would be more interesting to make that whole FP unit a projection into the room to break up that wall. That way you can gain safety and upgrade the house.
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Here's what I would do and it is probably overkill. Before you put the concrete board on mount some steel plates in the ares where you want to mount you appliance. You don't say where the mount are on the back of your TV. Lets say you have four places to mount it. One mount on each corner. Mount four steel plates directly to the brick that are say 3/26" thick with four concrete fasteners in each. Since there are four fasteners in each steel plate you can use something like a concrete screw. They should be at least 1 1/2" long but they wouldn't be that big in dia.
To make sure they are in the right place mount the TV before you put on the concrete board. Get it dialed in just the way you want it. Then take it back off. Once you have the concrete board back on and finished you should be able to mount your TV to the four steel plates hidden behind your board.
This technique would distribute the load over a larger area and more fasteners.