We have a tub that is fiberglass with sides going up about a foot from the tub part you step in and then there is a second fiberglass that picks from the tub and goes up to about 6 feet. The tub leaks when you are taking a shower where the dry wall covers the flange and the place the two fiberglass pieces come together.
I have dug out all the old caulk trying to stop the leaking – has worked some but not solved.
here is what I was thinking: 1. get a guy that can fiberglass over the horizontal joint all around the tub (really like this idea) 2. Cut the top piece out and go back with a cement backer board and then tile.
Has anyone faced this situation? What do you think of these approaches to solve?
Tks — all the best — Dudley
Replies
forget the fibreglass idea and use ceramic tile over cement board
If it leaks, replace it. After the fact repair jobs are iffy at best, as you have experienced. This is a stupid fiberglass shower with an even stupider plastic surround, and you could replace the whole she-bang for less than $1,000 with an equally c r a p p y fiberglass surround, properly installed and caulked.
I don't get the whole fiberglass thing. It looks cheap (because it is); is usually installed improperly by handymen types and DIY'ers; and lasts about 10 years; then people fret because it leaks. These things are like disposable razors. Get rid of this abortion, Dudley.
If you like your house and are going to live there for a while, consider a good tile job. They will last 50 years if properly installed.
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934
Dud
Don't forget to caulk with a tub full of water to simulate a body's weight when showering. You can also just stand in the tub when caulking.... but you must remain there until the caulk is set.
C
If you aren't going to tear it out and start over, and can get behind the faucet, look here for a source of the leak. Water hitting the top of the valve and spout can get behind the panels. It travels usually out to the sheetrock/flange/seam area. When trimming out the faucet, I'll caulk an arc damn behind the escutchion above and to the sides of the hole in the fibreglass. Leave the bottom open to drain water. Apply the escutchion and neatly caulk from 7 to 5 oclock on that. Use water soluble caulk and neatly wipe all but a small bead off. Do the same with the spout. Dig out the damaged drywall and caulk a damn there in the seam. Take some showers, if fixed, repair the drywall. I assume you caulked all the seams at install? Some will finish caulk closed the seam.
best of luck.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I like Calvin's suggestion. I've seen many leaks behind valves that were blamed on tile or leaky pipes. The surround probably overlaps a flange on the tub, so leaking there is not as likely as it may seem and the caulk isn't doing as much as you might think. Try to gain access to the area behind the valves and watch as someone takes a shower. (No peeking!)
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
That's good way to get an eye poked out<G>
I'm not saying I am giving up on the caulk -- it is a rental condo with 2 of these units -- guy wants $5,000 to replace both ------ this is why I thought I might be able to form a fiberglass bridge ove the seam. I am aware of the leaking that goes on behind the faucets, shower head, and valves -- I'll do this agian. On the seam where the 2 parts come together I have raked out all that I can, dried out with a hair dryer and filled the tub and then caulked -- I'll do this again as I really do not want to go through and repalce both tubs or even tear out the top and go back with backer board and tile over top. The caulk idea is more and more appealing -- thanks all for the input - Dudley