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20″ wall tiles?

woodpeckers | Posted in General Discussion on November 12, 2009 04:57am

can i use 20″ procelan tiles on walls for a shower?

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  1. User avater
    IMERC | Nov 12, 2009 04:59am | #1

    why not if the wall is really flat..

     

    Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

    WOW!!! What a Ride!


    Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

     

    "Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"

  2. docotter | Nov 12, 2009 05:59am | #2

    The last shower I did with 18" porcelain tiles on the walls. There are a lot of showers out there with large format tiles on the wall.

  3. User avater
    Mongo | Nov 12, 2009 07:57am | #3

    Yes. When you get big like that it's sometimes good to go with a dot installation instead of full coverage.

    Where's Jeff Buck been hiding out? He had a thread in the photo gallery about a shower with large format.

    1. Piffin | Nov 12, 2009 01:05pm | #4

      Jeff is enjoying a lifetime ban from BT 

       

      Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

      1. todd | Nov 12, 2009 04:18pm | #5

        "Jeff is enjoying a lifetime ban from BT"What was the issue?

        1. Piffin | Nov 13, 2009 02:27pm | #10

          I missed it so don't know speciafically 

           

          Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

      2. User avater
        Mongo | Nov 12, 2009 05:11pm | #6

        I must be missing out on all the fun since I stay out of the Tavern.I noticed that Jeff and I weren't meeting up in threads, but the thought of him being banned just hadn't occurred to me. I guess that's one of the limitations I have, being pure in mind and soul!

      3. fingersandtoes | Nov 12, 2009 08:07pm | #9

        I didn't know that either. Has anyone else been similarly exiled?

        1. Piffin | Nov 13, 2009 02:31pm | #11

          I think Jeff is one of a kind. 

           

          Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

    2. FastEddie | Nov 12, 2009 06:05pm | #7

      go with a dot installation instead of full coverage

      Why?"Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

      "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

      1. User avater
        Mongo | Nov 12, 2009 08:03pm | #8

        It's sometimes best to go with dot coverage with large format tiles if the wall is out of plane or not perfectly flat.

        Dot coverage results in the tile standing off the wall a bit, so you can keep the face of the tile in plane as you tile up the wall.

        Were you to try to tile a "lumpy" wall with large format tile, the tile could rock and roll on the bumps in the wall, resulting in lippage issues with adjacent tiles, etc.

        You don't HAVE to go dot. It's just an option I thought I'd mention.

    3. BenM | Nov 13, 2009 04:35pm | #12

      I'm sure you know that neither tile nor grout is waterproof.  With the dot method you have voids between the tile and the substrate, a good place for mold, etc to grow.

      1. User avater
        Mongo | Nov 13, 2009 07:18pm | #13

        Good point Ben, I considered addressing that in my original post but decided instead on brevity. It's a consideration but it runs along the same theory as moisture getting behind tile/grout and then into the cement board...and then hitting the drainage barrier behind the cement board. Does it condense/mold there?During a drying cycle, what, if any, moisture/vapor that gets through will dry back into the room via the same path it entered...through the grout.I had the same questions way back when, but TCNA guys and old-head tile mechanics calmed my fears. Never had a problem.Best, Mongo

      2. User avater
        BillHartmann | Nov 13, 2009 07:50pm | #14

        "I'm sure you know that neither tile nor grout is waterproof. "That depends on the specific tile..
        William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe

        1. FastEddie | Nov 13, 2009 07:57pm | #15

          And grout.  Epoxy grout and porcelain tile would be waterproof."Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

          "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

      3. Honeymoon | Nov 14, 2009 02:54am | #16

        I'm sure you know that neither tile nor grout is waterproof.  With the dot method you have voids between the tile and the substrate, a good place for mold, etc to grow.

        I would like to see you support this claim.

         

  4. BenM | Nov 16, 2009 07:36pm | #17

    Here is one reference, in an article by Michael Byrne.  He is considered to be knowledgeable in the field of tile installation.  It's in the last paragraph on page 2.

    http://www.michaelbyrne.us/articles/2001%20Large%20Format%20Tile.pdf

    While it could be argued that the chance of mold growing in the voids behind the tile are slim to maybe none, every installation specification from all the major thinset manufacturers I have read requires a minimum of 95% coverage.  You can't get that from a few spots of thinset.

    1. User avater
      Mongo | Nov 16, 2009 08:53pm | #18

      The guidelines for floor tile is 95% coverage, wall is generally 80%. But I still shoot for full coverage.Properly doing a "dot" installation doesn't just mean a few little dabs and pop it on the wall. You set the tile, move it around to get it in plane and compress the dotted mortar, then pull it off add more mortar where needed, then reset. Repeat as needed. It results in near full coverage. Doing a dot installation poorly is fairly easy. Doing it properly is quite laborious and slow. It's nothing like just having a "few spots of thinset" on the wall. Guys that do it that way are hacks. I'd rather plumb and flatten the wall first, that's the easiest and best way to tile.Depending on the installation, you might have to move beyond thinset to a more bodied bonding mortar too. Thinset is, after all for "thin" set applications.Best, Mongo

      1. JohnCujie | Nov 16, 2009 09:38pm | #19

        Isn't that a vote for a mud job on the walls? Screeded (if that's a word) with a straight edge so all is flat and plumb to begin with. If you have a good tile man.John

        1. User avater
          Mongo | Nov 16, 2009 11:25pm | #20

          Sure! Like I wrote, my first preference is to work off of plumb and flat walls. It's always easier working off a good foundation than trying to make up for it as you go along.The problem arises when you're thickness limited in a remodel and can't do a mud job. You could feather them flat/plumb and then tile. Or do the best with what you have, as you're able.Heck, the best way to end this is by just writing that no backer board should be hung until the framing is spot-on perfect. And after hanging the backer board, don't mess it up with too much mud when you tape the joints.

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