Replies

1. 
   deadnuts | Jul 21, 2014 11:43pm | #1

   I've heard about "the guy" before

   My advice:

   1.Quit wasting your time and money. It has to be more valuable than "the guy" thinks it is.

   2. Call a professional painter and get your job done right the first time.

   3. Remember, don't ever ask "the guy(s)" advice while shopping at H. Depot. Only buy things that you know that you need there... and that aren't special order.

2. 
   MarkH | Jul 22, 2014 05:47am | #2

   I would say the 123 is about the best primer you could use for the deck.  I would have used polyurethane floor paint without primer myself but the 123 is a great primer.

1. 
   deadnuts | Jul 22, 2014 08:37pm | #3

   I wouldn't go there

   MarkH wrote:

   I would say the 123 is about the best primer you could use for the deck. 

   I wouldn't. The OP stated the deck was "exterior wood". I don't know what they are actually referring to, but I assume it's P.T. decking*. That's usually southern yellow pine (a softwood) treated with ACQ treatment. There are two things working against someone who is proposing to paint an exterior wood deck that is built with P.T. lumber:

   1. Excess moisture leachs out of the P.T. (mostly during the first 6 months) over time. The hygroscopic nature of wood and the amount of hyrostatic pressures involved with the movement of moisture will usually be the death knell of any paint film

   A penetrating pigmented stain is better because it provide UV protection without a surface film seal. This is because penetrating stains are carried into the wood and encase wood fibers as opposed to laying on the surface and curing as a surface film. It is harder for the natural elements to break the seal of a penetrating stain as opposed to a film seal. The pigmented stains are usually UV resistant unlike most clear stains. Usually, the more pigment, the more UV protection. Also, the fact that you walk on the deck providing for an abrasive action (with dust and dirt particals) upon the surface means piant film don't hold up well in that situation. . It's like a slow moition sanding operation. Once the film is broken moisture works its way back into the fibers during rainy weather, then works its way back out during dry cycles--and usually it doesn't come back out only where it came in. Thus, you get paint film release, AKA "flaking". Petrating stains are deeper in the wood fibers where the abrasive action can't reach. They don't last forever, but usually longer than paint.

   2. A deck is generally is flat and doesn't drain regularly. No paint film on wood can hold up too long under that kind of water torture.

   As for Zinsser123 primer. It's a good all around acrylic primer for painting (doesn't excell in all applications, but rates fair). But that doesn't mean everything should be painted. Painting is always going to be a surface film seal. For the reasons outlined above, wood decks are not good candidates for painting.

   *if, by chance, the wood being adressed by the O.P. is a tropical hardwood naturally resistant to decay like redwood, teak, IPE, then it's expensive. Only a fool would paint this material.

1. 
   MarkH | Jul 22, 2014 08:49pm | #4

   So, what would be the best primer for a (20 year old) deck?  I don't even want one, give me concrete any day, but that's just me.  She's going to repaint a deck that's 20 years old.  I'm sure that nothing will perform long term, but if they want to paint a deck, that's OK by me.  I would use moisture cured polyurethane, or "oil based polyurethane" myself.  I find that stain scuffs off easily, does not really cover nicely on old weathered wood, and is more moisture permeable than paint. 

   On that note, I'm glad to not have a maintenance item like a deck or wooden porch. 

1. 
   deadnuts | Jul 22, 2014 09:58pm | #5

   I'm with on the concrete...

   I'm with you on the concrete patio as a fine low maintainance option. However, we don't know what the O.P. deck elevation is...and you have to admit that concrete patios are tough (and expensive) to build if they're not on grade.

   With regard to stains: nothing covers over old weathered wood. The fibers are flaking away. That's why weathered wood should be properly prepared. I like to use Cabots "problem solver" wood cleaner. Scrub it with a stiff bristle broom, then rinse well . Forget the sanding*.

   Also, the newer acrylic penetrating stains are very good. They are actually somewhat vapor permable which means they allow vapor to slowly escape without lifting the finish, but tend to inhibit bulk water saturation. You can think of like  wrapping each wood fiber (that the stain penetrates) in Tyvek WRB.

    Personally, I like the Sherwin Williams "Deckscapes". If you try it, I think you will find that it does not scuff easily at all. I have sprayed some of my patio furniture with it. The factory coating was a cappachino brown stain (probably done in China), but wore prematurely. I washed all the pieces with the problem solver (some areas flaked down to bare wood) and sprayed 3 coats of semi-transparant Deckscape stain that matched original finish perfectly. and looked brand new.  After two years of direct exposure, it still looks like the day I sprayed it.

   *unless you're having to fix someone else's years of crappy pressure washing.

1. 
   MarkH | Jul 22, 2014 10:44pm | #6

   Yeah Deckscapes seems to be a good product.  I've seen pretty good results with it.  It ends up being pretty pricey material wise though.  I wonder how well it holds over time.

2. 
   deadnuts | Jul 22, 2014 11:29pm | #7

   Mark, what do you pay for your exterior finishes?

   I pay just under $50 a gallon for the Deckscapes acrylic.  As you say, it's not cheap. But then again I pay $54 for a quart of Epifanes Wood Finish oil based spar polyurethane for finishing entry doors and custom exterior furniture.  I haven't seen anything else  hold up (or look) better.

   I guess, like most things, you get what you pay for.

3. 
   MarkH | Jul 23, 2014 07:34am | #10

   How much coverage do you get per gallon of deckscapes?  It is a high build product.

4. 
   deadnuts | Jul 23, 2014 08:59pm | #11

   roughly 200-250 sq ft. depending on the condition of the deck.

5. 
   MarkH | Jul 23, 2014 09:47pm | #12

   Thanks, that's better than I expected.  I'll tell my neighbor about it, they need more than stain on their deck.

2. 
   DanH | Jul 22, 2014 11:35pm | #8

   For wood decks generally a semi-transparent stain is as good as anything.

1. 
   Amberv2007 | Jul 23, 2014 12:00am | #9

   Thanks so much for everyone's comments, suggestions and help.  I'm going to save money and put in a concrete patio Ina couple of years....so in the meantime I will just use a good top coat of paint for decks and get on with it!  

   Thanks again....I have learned a lot!  I will come here first in the future before I start any project to get help from people who know!!

   amber