All, we are in our six month old house. We designed it so that the laundry room was on the second floor. We have a brand new washer/dryer combo. It’s the front loading high speed units (forget their names; Whirlpool brand; about $1k/each). The laundry room is a tile floor. Overall very good construction. The problem we’re having is that the washer is constantly spinning/shaking itself out of level. I’ve leveled this thing three times. Each time I level it it’s rock solid. And then 5-7 days later it’s out of level and vibrating the whole laundry room area to the point it drives you nuts.
My wife called Whirlpool and they said it’s not their problem. They also said they don’t recommend putting this high speed unit on the second floor and that the retailer should have warned us about this (she didn’t ask if they had another set that would work better; but I’ll be asking the retailer). They said we “might” want to try putting a piece of plywood under the washer. She didn’t ask why, and he didn’t say…but I’m guessing it’s to help reduce the bounce, or transfer of vibration to the floor?
Anyway, I guess my question is does anyone know of a solution for this? If your solution is to move the laundry room to the first floor or basement, save the typing. That will be a last resort for me. I posed this question a couple months ago (before we talked to Whirlpool) but I couldn’t find that thread to ressurect it. I thought I recalled some people having solutions – perhaps a rubber mat? Thanks for any help you all can provide.
– Rob
Replies
I'm shooting completly from the hip here, so take it for what it's worth.
Have you tried loc-tite on the threads of screws?
I would think a rubber mat might help some to dampen the vibration.
Other then that I know nothing besides floor's under front loaders have speacial design requirements, what they are, I do not know.
First, determine the cyclic frequency range - probably the spin rpm or a multiple of that (the manufacturer may tell you.) Then, check a company like Lord with specific damping products that are designed for particular frequencies (basically, a high-tech, one or multi-layer elastomeric mat.)
The right material will likely be pricey, so determine the recommended static load per square inch of the correct mat, figure the full washer weight, divide, and buy that many square inches of mat. Cut it into four equal sized pieces.
Using "spraytack" type carpet adhesive, make four sandwichs of ~5/8" thick wood, the mat, and another piece of wood. Now you've made vibration-damping mounting blocks. With a Forstner bit, cut a shallow pocket the size of the washer foot, 1/4" deep or so on the top of each block, just to keep the mounting block centered under the foot.
Glue some felt or similar to the bottom, so trapped grit won't scratch your tile.
I will do this when my old washer upstairs dies, and we get a front loader on the tile.
Forrest
Here's the guys we use to dampen our vibrating equipment
http://www.vibrationmounts.com/Products.htm
On the adjustment thing. I assume you have a foot that screws in and out for level. On that shaft I assume you have a lock nut. And i assume you have turned the feet to level the washer, and then turned the locknut up into the base of the washer while holding the foot in position. Takes two wrenches.
If that's all in order the locktight thing is worth a shot, or removing the foot and adding a lockwasher between the locknut an the washer base. Or is it sliding on an uneven floor?
Jake Gulick
[email protected]
CarriageHouse Design
Black Rock, CT
sometimes not all the shipping/packing straps are removed it's been noted here more than a few times... just a guess might be a simple fix
1 - did they remove all the shipping bolts when they installed the washer? Not removing them has the same effect.
2 - buy four 12" carpet squares and put one under each foot. Might tell you if it being on hard tile is the culprit. Cheap way to get an indication.
Buic
I've heard this before. They REALLY don't recommend 2nd-floor installation because of the vibration problem. I'd replace them! Seriously, you'll never get the problem settled...
I agree with CAGIV (and the shooting from the hip part). typically, the leg levelers are threaded directly into a guseted corner. you might try to install a locknut washer from the top or bottom(?) to pinch it against the gusset.
having said that, I am still trying to get my arms around the whole second floor issue. if they say first floor only, I am assuming slab on grade construction??? I must be missing something.....it's happened before.
Dave
Dang, you guys are good. Thanks for all the ideas. I'm going to print them out and start w/the simplest and work my way up from there.
I'm not quite sure what they mean about the second floor vs. first floor. The guy did tell my wife that they prefer the washer/dryer to be in the basement on a concrete floor. However I think the other issue is just general instability of the studs, etc. I'm NOT a construction guy, but is it safe to assume that there's less "flex" in the floor/walls right above the foundation, vs. 10-12' up from there?
- Rob
I had a similar problem, but not on the second floor...
The trick to "leveling" it, is not necessary level, but getting the same tension on all four feet...I took the front cover off so I could get to all four feet and tightend them so tension way equal to the floor on all...This is while it was in the spin cycle...Took a couple times but it worked...
Bud
Are they stacking? I have a stacking Miele washer and dryer. Very expensive but I'm hoping that in ten years, they will have paid for themselves. I have them mounted on the second floor and I experience similar problems. I plan to build a built in cabinet around the stacking combination. When I'm finished, I plan to "wedge" the unit between the floor and the top of the cabinet. If it works, it will work well. If it doesn't, I'll be reading everyone's reply.
Oh, this is an easy one. Lasso the legs with some wire. Screw some Piffin screws in the wall studs behind the machine and tie the other end of the wires to them.
That was easy.
If Blodgett says, Tipi tipi tipi it must be so!
TipiFest 06~~> Send me your email addy for a Paypal invoice to the greatest show on earth~~>[email protected]
Hey Andy, what's with that fancy new expert icon by your name?
"A job well done is its own reward. Now would you prefer to make the final payment by cash, check or Master Card?"
Looks like a tipi to me...................Jake Gulick
[email protected]
CarriageHouse Design
Black Rock, CT
Its Breaktime's tenth anniversary according to Mark so he gave me a present fo having the fest...My very own Tipi Fest by my name. Surprised the hell outta me...If Blodgett says, Tipi tipi tipi it must be so!
TipiFest 06~~> Send me your email addy for a Paypal invoice to the greatest show on earth~~>[email protected]
Ah, I see it now. Either it's too small or I really do need some reading specs. ;-)
Tipi to you. Wish I could go. Hopefully next time.
I'll send you some grass seed for after ;-)
"A job well done is its own reward. Now would you prefer to make the final payment by cash, check or Master Card?"
Edited 3/14/2006 11:40 pm ET by philarenewal
Just another thought here.
Do you have the appliances in a pan? What would happen when the washer leaks? Water down to the first floor?
In the homes I build I have a galvanized pan the size of the appliance closet, c/w DRAIN, pour 3" concrete into the pan and finish the concrete either with clear epoxy or tile (bushhammered surface). I also separate the stacking appliance with a separate plywood floor (cabinet over cabinet). Makes service a lot easier, rather than trying to lift the top appliance off. Does not work with all appliances since some are connected to the bottom appliance in their own unique way.
Also try condensing dryer next time. No more fussing with the stupid exhaust hoses.
If you do end up changing the unit, we have the Bosch stacking unit in the 2nd floor bathroom. It's the small model, for under counters. Nexxis I think, and we have the condensing dryer. The floor is tile on hardiboard on 3/4" plywood on 2X10 joists, 16" centers. Now the span is only 5' and the joists are 105 years old, so they are a bit bigger than new lumber.
Anyway, we don't seem to have a vibration problem.
This is the third house I've done that I live in. Each time I've built a laundry on the second floor with zero problems. Thats where the laundry room belongs IMO. I probably shouldn't have said that......If Blodgett says, Tipi tipi tipi it must be so!
TipiFest 06~~> Send me your email addy for a Paypal invoice to the greatest show on earth~~>[email protected]
As already suggested, try the vibration mounts. I have a 80 gal verticle compresoor that shakes like crazy and these have reduced it to nothing and you can't hear it all(or barely) now if it turns on in the night.
here's a like to the type that I used. they have all differnt weight models. Look on other pages for more brands/types
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/viewCatalogPDF.shtml?browserCompatable=true&adobeCompatable=true&toolbar=true&CatPage=2366
I have Frigidaire frontload units. They are both on pedestals and neither has moved in a year of use and HIGH-speed spinning
The laundry room is carpeted but the laundry closet is vinyl flooring over litecrete--we have in-floorheat
First determined if there is a problem with the washer. Run it thru a cycle without clothes - it should not shake. The grab hold of inner tub and push it to see if the inner is not locked to the frame of the washer, mines moves an inch or so, it old.
Get a piece of 3/4"+ , here the hard part, drill or router out 4 holes 1/8" deep to match the feet on the washer. Attach or place several rubber mats (grooved rubber doormats, restaurant mats, etc.)under the plywood.
The hole in the plywood keep the washer from walking and the levelers from turning