Replies

1. 
   davidmeiland | Dec 22, 2003 05:50am | #1

   There are several corners you can build, depending on what you need on the inside and outside. A really helpful book is 'The Graphic Guide to Frame Construction' which you can get from Amazon.

2. 
   RobKress | Dec 22, 2003 07:12am | #2

   Just did it on my house.  Yep, you can do a lot of different corners but for just plain old corners where two walls come together perpendicularly, I used 2ea. 2x6 nailed together into an L. 

   Good luck

   Rob Kress

1. 
   RalphWicklund | Dec 22, 2003 07:31am | #3

   I like LOTS of beef.

   .

   .

1. 
   bake | Dec 22, 2003 08:15am | #5

   That looks like a tough corner to get a wire through Ralph.

   bake

1. 
   RalphWicklund | Dec 22, 2003 08:39am | #6

   Not hard at all. Compared to a 3 stud 2x4 corner there's a lot more room to work. A right angle drill and a sharp spade bit and about 30 seconds.

   If the all thread tiedowns we use get in the way I just go up and over. I don't usually let the electricians make the corner or other weird holes. They seem to have enough trouble with plumb and level.

2. 
   GoldenWreckedAngle | Dec 22, 2003 08:35pm | #10

   Ralph,

   That is the corner I've always used but I use short 2x4 blocks instead of a full height 2x4 stud to build the corner. I'll probably stick with that for interior walls but I can see the three stud offset L corner " II  " being easier to insulate properly so I may change my corners on any ouside walls I build in the future. Kevin Halliburton

   "I believe that architecture is a pragmatic art. To become art it must be built on a foundation of necessity."  - I.M. Pei -

3. 
   joeh | Dec 22, 2003 08:05am | #4

   IRC sez 2s enough.

   Joe H

4. 
   Schelling | Dec 22, 2003 01:52pm | #7

   We use one stud at the corner, horizontal blocking to the next stud in the wall and a stud nailed to the corner and blocking. This is very solid, open for insulation and wiring, but uses clips for the drywall.

5. 
   dIrishInMe | Dec 22, 2003 04:52pm | #8

   This link shows a pic of what I believe you are referring to as a California corner:

   http://www.energy.state.or.us/code/respub/res10.pdf

   Look at the one they call the 3 stud corner.  The idea behind this method is to build a corner that is easy to insulate properly.  The down side is that you have less to nail your exterior siding to right there in the corner.  Based on the fact that you are doing 2x6 walls, you could put a 2x2 or something in there to give you a better nail base.

   Matt
1. 
   Mongo | Dec 22, 2003 05:51pm | #9

   Matt got it.

   Page two, second pic from the top is a "california corner."

   Page three, second one down, is a "california partition".

   I think Ralph mentioned drilling for trades. Framers can earn style points by pre-drilling some built-up corner assemblies for things like wiring before the sheathing goes on.

6. 
   Richie921 | Dec 22, 2003 09:03pm | #11

   We do three stud corners with 2x6 walls.  The corners look like a U. Two 2x6 studs with a 2x4 nailed between them.  Just remember to insulate the corner before you sheathe it since the hollow part of the U faces the exterior.  The intersecting wall nails into the corner leaving 1 inch for drywall backing.  If it's not clear let me know and I/ll try to post a drawing.

   Richie

7. 
   CapnMac | Dec 23, 2003 12:54am | #12

   Three stud corner, but with a 2x4 for the interior nailing surface.  Not nailed flush to the "L" of 2x6s, so that any holes can be through a single 2x6.

   Been a while since I saw any 2x6 exterior construction here in central Texas, though.  (And not nearly enough insulation installed during framing, either.)

   Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
8. 
   woodroe | Dec 23, 2003 03:05am | #13

   We do a three stud U corner. One at the end of the wall, and two nailed perpendicular on either edge. This provides exterior backing for siding and corner boards, and solid nailing for the other side wall of the corner, with 1-1/2" backer left for rock. We don't have to worry about insulation or wiring because there is a 2-1/2" space that is accessable from inside the stud cavity.