3/4″ red oak over pine board sub?

Hey y’all:
My idio, er, dear brother-in-law used diagonal pine one-bys as subfloor in his new house, and is now asking for advice on installing his hardwood flooring. I pretty much know my way around a typical install, but haven’t yet dealt with doing it over 1x. Any tips?
Sorry if I wimped-out too early on the search. Thanks.
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Replies
Foureagles
Thats how they used to do it all the time, I've seen a thousand houses done that way.
I would prefer to have plywood down for subfloor but if thats already down, what the hell.
Just put a layer of felt paper down before laying the hardwood floor.
What the heck did he put down 1 bys for, get them free or something?
Doug
Thanks Doug. I figure that about the only thing different would be the way things move, and much greater likelihood for squeaks, but yeah; what can you do? I've dealt with older houses that were done this way, but I just never did the oak on any of them.
Though this house is huge and complex, it was his first building project, and I think he just relied on a very old book to show him how to do it. Believe it or not, he did the walls & roof the same way! Kind of a scary scenario, but the dang place actually looks quite good!
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foureagles
I'm curious, he used 1X's for the side wall and roof sheeting to?
This had to cost him much more than plywood and he wouldnt have as ridged of a structure. I would think that he will deal with a more likelyhood of squeeks, but its his house so who am I to say anything.
Doug
You can build with shiplap boards for about the same cost as plywood. Pine does outgas like plywood for sensitive customers. It's true that you need to add let-in diagonal bracing to resist racking. As for the floor, no big deal, just lay red rosin paper or tar paper down first. If the floor is cupped anywhere plane the high spots down first.
Yep. Imagine doing ten 10/12 valleys and a couple of hips with diagonal 1xs! Hand-nailed it all too! Since he did it all by himself, maybe it was a little easier than hauling 4x8 sheets up, or perhaps lack of electrical power played a role. I still think he was just relying on a library book from the '50s.
For what it's worth, he's been building the place for 15 years. Whatever the guy may lack in smarts he more than makes up in persistence! By the way, the building inspector accepted diagonal boards in lieu of sidewall let-in bracing. He did have to add let-ins on a couple of interior shear walls, and I bet the chisel work on the plates was a barstid! I told him after the fact that he could have blocked the top & bottom, which just made him sad.
Glad everyone's different -- keep things interesting!
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PS:
Thanks Dave. Yeah, I think he's gonna need to plane or sand a few spots on the subfloor due to cupping/irregular thickness. I was gonna recommend double 30# felt underlayment to smooth things, but you think rosin paper? If it were me, I'd be REALLY tempted to glue some 1/4" luan over the whole thing first, but they didn't do it that way in the olde days. The whole thing is over a full heated basement, which I really hope has a vapor barrier in the slab.
Edited 3/31/2003 12:28:29 PM ET by foureagles
Man, Next your going to tell us he cut everything with handsaws, and bored all his holes with a hand drill lol
Hand Nailed all that 1x, the guys swinging arm must be a bit stronger then his other View ImageGo Jayhawks
Builders felt is good we happen to use rosenpaper. What ever, keeps the squeaks down.