Replies

1. 
   norml | Dec 22, 2001 07:40pm | #1

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   If you must use the nail down flooring, install it at right angles to the joists, nailing into each with no nails between.

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   david_thodal | Dec 22, 2001 08:18pm | #2

   *Rick, If I read your post correctly, and you are installing 9" wide flooring, I would advise not to rely on edge nailing. Rather I would either face-nail or screw and plug into the joists. You can install the flooring using a 1-1/2" power-cleat nail which will not penetrate your subfloor. However there is too much potential for eventual movement and buckling at your joints, that is why I reccommend face-fastening. You can runn you fasteners every other joist (16" centers) and alternate with each course. You can run your ends between joists if they are end -matched but that will throw off your nailing pattern. As with any flooring, there are several considerations to keep in mind. Try to achieve a minimum dryness with your flooring and subfloor before install. If you can install your flooring dryer than your normal moisture level, you are better off. If your wood flooring is appreciably dryer than your average house moisture level, I would go against the accepted convention of a week acclimatizing on-site, and reccommend 24hours and install . Then let it acclimatize a week before sanding and finish. Nomatter how dry and tight your install you will probably see seasonal differences in the floor. One way to minimize is to use a penetrating oil first before your sealer. I like Duraseal 210 Nuetral before urethane.I would also reccommend either rosin paper or 15#felt as a subfloor paper. It will help reduce noise created by floor movement.walk gooddavid

1. 
   Ken_fisher | Dec 23, 2001 12:18am | #3

   *This one is way outta my league but you could check into this very resourseful link. I have never seen radiant heat applications but this site covers all the bases in my opinion.http://www.hardwoodcouncil.com/tips/tip5.htm

1. 
   Rick_Taylor | Dec 23, 2001 05:16am | #4

   *David, thank you for your reply. yes after re reading my posting i can see how someone would guess that i am installing 9" boards. the boards i am installing are the 2 1/4" or 3 1/2" wide oak tongue and groove flooring. the ideas about lower moisture content and penetrating oil sound like good ones, thanks again, this is my first time visiting the discussion area and i think its great. rick

1. 
   David_Daniels | Dec 25, 2001 12:46am | #5

   *Dont use 15 Lb felt , the smell will run you out of the house when the heat kicks on . try http://www.heatinghelp.com go to the wall alot of heating contractors do underfloor tube and have to fix the leaks .

2. 
   Rick_Taylor | Dec 25, 2001 12:46am | #6

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   We are thinking of installing 3/4" unfinished oak flooring on top of 3/4" plywood which has radiant heating on the underside of the plywood. The joists have been marked which will allow for nailing into the joists. However, what do you do in between the joists where many joints will happen? Also, how do I attach the 9" boards that fall in between the joists? I am thinking about using a nuematic stapler with staples that do not go through the plywood. Has anyone tested this idea or does anyone have any ideas on how to install this without any squeaks?

   A lot of people say you can only put a floating floor over radiant heat because of the temperature fluctuations. We have found that the flooring temperature fluctuations in a house (located in the mid- Atlantic states) are about the same as temperature changes in a house without air conditioning.