Hey Guys,
I’m for some creative suggestions for one of my switch boxes. For future expansion, I installed a three gang box, but currently it’s only housing to switches.
Any ideas for what to do with the 3rd spot? I haven’t been able to find any wall plates that have space for two dimmers and one space covered up. Otherwise, I’d be willing to add some other device, although I’m not sure what that would be.
If anyone’s got ideas, I’d to hear them.
Thanks!
Low-e storm panels improve the energy efficiency of these old sash windows without changing their classic look.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
Drywall right over the empty spot and put a 2-gang cover on the existing switches.
When you need it, it's there.
Either that or put an unwired switch in it.
Or...
...a small shelf with a bud vase.
...tiny change tray.
...leave it open and use it for those tiny childrens' books.
...single car garage for a Hot Wheel.
...cut all the way through the siding for a gun port.
a.
Electrical supply houses have places that build custom switch plates any way you want em...I have some that have l/v switches and regular dimmers in em...don't cost that much extra...
Bud
Are they the standard rotary dimmers? You could get a blank 3gang plate and drill it for the dimmers. You could put a switch in the middle slot and make it a master switch for the two dimmers. You could put in a mystery switch hooked to nothing to confuse people. I thought I had seen a filler that has the same screw pattern as a switch. You could get the modular plates that hve all the styles available and put one blank and two to fit the dimmers. Enough options? Good luck, Bob
I looked in my Leviton catalog, and I did find one wallplate with two switches and a blank, but it's a commercial grade item apparently only available in brass or stainless steel. They also have a service where they will custom make cover plates to your specifications but I imagine that's pretty expensive. Finally, they sell a modular kind of cover plate where you can put together individual sections (for switches, receptacles, blanks, whatever) with end caps but I think those look kind of cheesy. There may be other options from Leviton or other manufacturers, but that's what I could find in a short search.
If it were me, I'd just put a third dummy switch in the unused position and call it done.
Thats what I have in my house.
Sometimes I wonder if a light is going on in the attic though.
blue
"Thats what I have in my house.
Sometimes I wonder if a light is going on in the attic though.
blue"
You never know...maybe it's hooked up to the light in your next door neighbor's bedroom closet. ;-)
(oblique refererence to the other discussion about closet light switches that's going on right now.)
Stuart, I don't have any catalogs, but would you see if Leviton still makes a strap with a filler for a switch opening....I have used those many times to fill in a spot where ####switch or pilot light was removed on a multtigang cover.
"Stuart, I don't have any catalogs, but would you see if Leviton still makes a strap with a filler for a switch opening....I have used those many times to fill in a spot where ####switch or pilot light was removed on a multtigang cover."
It appears they still do offer fillers: p/n 80700-I for toggle switch plates, p/n 80414-I for Decora plates, and they also have a p/n 80400-I that's a Decora blanking plate with a hole in the middle so you can install a standard rotary dimmer switch. (The I in the part number stands for ivory, substitute different letters for different colors.)
Edited to add: Mikro also referenced the Decora plate in his post a few minutes ago.
Edited 1/12/2006 2:22 pm ET by Stuart
I found the # .....just too late, hahah, never seen those other fillers though,......that's a good idear thanks
.......HEY, I found the number.........80700...and they are ivory gray brown,or white
Corrib,
If this a rocker, Decora stlye HD carries an insert that mounts like a switch for that. It Will fill the single opening .
Its skew# 679-658
Leviton Decora series part# R42-80414-00W The "W" is for white, use "I" for ivory.
Hope this helps
Mike K
Edited 1/12/2006 2:24 pm by MiKro
I'd wire it and install the third switch, middle position. Run the wire to a J-box somewhere that would be accessible later. You may want it later for a soffit-mounted flood light, a UF run out into the yard for landscape lighting, etc.
It's been mentioned here before how nice it would be to have a switched soffit-mounted plug for Christmas lights.
Outside lighting of some kind is where I'd be headed with this, just wire it before you close up the wall, and you''ll at least keep your options open.
Greg
Buy a blank plate and cut the openings for the two switches you have.
um, the mounting holes are different on ####blank....
Oops!
Do you have a neutral available in that box? If so, put in a duplex receptacle. Even HD has a two switch/one receptacle plate in stock. I just used one for two dimmers and a duplex switch. Wanted to go 4 gang, but HD was out of the boxes.
-- J.S.
BTW, I am working on a 40's and looked at another one that is wired the same. In both of then that had the light switch in each room has recptectacle. That includes the kitchen, both bedrooms, and a dining alcove. Only the bathroom did not have one.And it appears that it was one of the main receptacles. Hard to tell what has been added over the years and what was orginal. But the one bedroom only has one other receptacle and i think that it was added.Back to the orginal question, Leviton (I think, but it might be Lutron) makes a snap-together modular plate system. You can get end sections in the different cut outs and inbetween sections in the different styles and they have a male/female snap on them.
Those could be later modifications. Here there are a lot of 1920's buildings that originally had very few receptacles. But they were black pipe conduit. So, it was fairly easy to pull in a neutral and get a receptacle along with a switch, where originally there had just been a switch.
-- J.S.
1. If you still have access in that wall, put a 3rd switch and wire it to a wall outlet to control a floor lamp. Make the wall outlet a split: one permanently hot outlet and one controlled by the extra switch. When you later want to use the extra switch for something else, simply reconnect the outlet as a normal duplex (both hot).
2. Put a motion sensor in the 3rd spot to control the light(s) in that room or a timer for vacation use. Can still use the dimmer.
DG/Builder
I like the suggestion of drywalling over the unneeded space, but is it acceptable to have the paper backing of the D/W covering the box? Would you need to put a piece of sheet metal on the back of the patch?
I would think you could use one of the metal screen like patches and mud over it. Should be no fire issue with that.
Thanks for all the advice guys!
I ended up going with the "build your own" solution. Three plates, each with tabs and notches that snap together.
Everybody was right about the cost of those (relative to regular switch plates). Each piece was around $2. Nothing like a $6 plastic faceplate.. I'm not complaining though (too much), it's a good solution.
Anyway, everything worked out fine and, as always, I appreciate the help from everybody who posted.
Thanks again!
Corrib, I forgot to offer you advice on what I've done. Actually, its' similar to your solution. I usually just buy multiple covers and cut them with my power saw. Plastic is possible but metal ones are easier to cut.
blue
why not just install a third switch in the box and be done - if it's your house, you'll know it doesn't do anything, when you "expand" later, the matching switch and plate is already in place - finished plate and no time trying to get something to "fit"