We are in the process of installing a kitchen and we just got ready to start the lowers. The corner is one of those massive lazy susan cabinets, ya know the ones with a full circle not the wedge cut shelves.
Anyway, we cant get it in the kitchen so i’m thinking about cutting about an inch off the back then reattaching it once its in the kitchen.
Sound okay, or do you have another alternative?
One other thing, any suggestions on how to attach crown moulding on top with about 5 1/2″ clearance between the ceiling and the cabinet?
Replies
Having installed many cabinets...... I would look at pulling the jamb of whatever door is keeping the cabinet out of the kitchen before I would cut the back of the cab off.
As for the crown I have used triangular plywood brackets screwed to the cabinet sides if the crown will stop short of the ceiling. This only works if the cabinet top is constructed with a dado, creating a recess when viewing the cab from the top.
Best wishes,
Matt
Cant pull the jamb, its a drywall pass through that was just completed last week (I know, I know I should've put the cab in first).
Good thought on the crown though thanks.
You might give some thought to removing the drywall from the framing and redoing that bypass after the cabinet is in.George Patterson
"Cant pull the jamb, its a drywall pass through that was just completed last week (I know, I know I should've put the cab in first)."
your drywall structural or did U clean the knife real good last time and don't wanna get it dirty again?
either cut the doorway or cut the cab ...
shoulda been in 1/2hr after finding out it didn't fit!
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Why such a small door in a new kitchen? 2'8" would be minimum standard now.How you gonna get range and refrigerator in?
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Now there's a good question!
Food for thought, the cabinet may be just the tip of the iceberg.
I just measured my fridge and range - they would just squeak through a 30" door.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
looks like some more drywall work is in your future ;)
"Cant pull the jamb, its a drywall pass through that was just completed last week "
Hmm. Let's say you somehow screw up. Which would be faster/easier/cheaper to fix -- a drywall jamb or a corner cab?
Me? I'd rip out the jamb in a heartbeat.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Me too
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Look at the construction of the cabinet.
I've taken more than one apart.
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That was the first thought. The cabinets are your standard glue together dadoes. We were thinking about removing the front and reattaching later but my luck would be that this would be the one cabinet they actually built well and the face would split.
The corner cabinets (most) we get are usually "clipped" at the back corner, meaning they are 45'd
The fronts are a 90deg door usually, and the are biggest at the far left and right.
If you have the room to do it and it looks like you can pull it off, I would consider doing what you said and clipping the back in an inch or so.
Take your time and keenly observe the construction an follow suite.
It may be scary but it ain't brain surgery.[email protected]
The back is clipped but the front is a 45 deg not the usual 90 door. So picture a 6 sided box (looking from above). The front and back are about 22" and the ends are "veed" kinda like this, <####>. Its a big box.
Hey if yer cabinets are Merrilatts it should just fall apart. No need to waste time taking it apart.
No chance of a window large enough?
for the crown I would screw up from the inside of the cabinet into the molding if thick enough or into blocks glued and nailed to the molding.
Thanks Rich, I think this crown is gonna be a pain. No chance on the window.
Separating one big crown into two or three pcs will help give you a good base for the curved stuff, while making the install of the backer easier. Great for making up inches in a floating ceiling.
My distance was taller, but it might give you another idea for your situation.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
The crown is only 3". Its not going to the ceiling.
Nice work in your pice though.
The crown is only 3". Its not going to the ceiling
Are you saying you're planning on leaving a two or three inch gap between the top of the crown and the ceiling?
I havent put a piece up yet so I cant say what it might look like. What do you suggest I do? I'm installing what the customer bought and on top of that its kind of a tan / coffee stain? color so i'm not running off to Lowes to buy more to bring it to the ceiling.
What do you suggest I do? See post 16 above. 94305.16
I'm installing what the customer bought and on top of that its kind of a tan / coffee stain? color so i'm not running off to Lowes to buy more to bring it to the ceiling.
Using pre-finished material will definitely limit your ability to adapt to site conditions. If you (or the clients) can't get a couple extra pre-finished profiles to do what I suggested in post 16, I think the only alternative you have is to build down with a sheetrocked soffit. But sometimes you have to do what's in the customer's budget.
Personally, I'd hate to leave a 5" gap at the top of the cabinets. I would have rather held the cabinets a few inches high and close enough to the ceiling so that the crown would have bridged the gap. Depending on how many lineal feet of cabinets you have, that may still be an option.
IMO I could live just fine without the crown on top. I really dont think its gonna look bad, there will be a gap though.
twice now i've been hit with the same thing. i just cut a couple inches off that back corner and got in the door. on mine you couldn't even see it once it was installed with the lazy susan taking up all the room. larry
hand me the chainsaw, i need to trim the casing just a hair.
For the crown moulding. How about ripping a 45 degree edge on a 1x4. Then screw the 1x4 down to the top edge of the cabinet and face nail the crown to the 1x4.
One other thing, any suggestions on how to attach crown moulding on top with about 5 1/2" clearance between the ceiling and the cabinet?
I'm guessing this is crown that has a horizontal leg that attaches to the top rather than face of cabinet? If I've got that right either nail or screw from the inside of cab. Some preassembly required...like inside corners.
Pics or a details would be helpful for best info.
PJ
Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end.
One other thing, any suggestions on how to attach crown moulding on top with about 5 1/2" clearance between the ceiling and the cabinet?
I think you'll have to do some sort of built-up crown. The example below is very simple and just for illustrative purposes. You can just choose two or three nice-looking profiles that will bridge the gap and suit your tastes.
If blocking is required on top of the cabinets, you could probably attach it by running screws from inside the cabinet.
View Image
Edited 9/7/2007 12:33 am ET by Ragnar17
To get the cabinet in, remove the door and jamb, then re-install it.
For the crown, build a soffit, then hang the wall cabs to that.
Otherwise, add a 5" face atop the cabinets ,then hang them.
Do wall cabs as a unit by assembling them before putting them to the wall.
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Your OP title seems to indicate that you are only 1/4" shy of clearance for passage through the "door". I assume that the 31-1/4" cabinet dimension is with the cabinet door removed - if not, remove the cabinet door and go through.
Pulling drywall jamb on one side only will provide needed clearance. Protect the cabinet face with something when moving through door.
Crown --- I like Ragnar17's solution - I would do something similar.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Raganar17's solution is the best so far
I have also backed up the back of the base of the crown with a horizontal piece that slides between the ceiling and the top of the wall unit (then attached from the inside of the wall unit) -- Plus I have very carefully measured the crown runs on a set of cabinets have glued and back screwed all of the crown pieces together and placed as a unit on the cabinet top -- to date I have had up to 8 pieces of crown all glued up (4 inside returns and 4 of the others). On the inside returns I use those needle spring wire clamps and if not too noticeable on the out side returns.
Takes some time doing it this way but you are at a comfortable working height - not up on a ladder etc - and once the glue (occasionally use hot glue to speed the process) hardens you are good to go -- assuming you are using a 23 ga pinner
Edited 9/7/2007 8:07 am ET by Dudley
It sounds like this is a base cabinet if so it should be 34-1/2" high with either a 4" or 5" toe tick. in either case if you cut it off you'd have a cabinet either 30-1/2" or 29-1/2" high. Enough to fit pass the doorway. Adding the toe kick back is fairly simple.
http://www.josephfusco.org
Edited 9/7/2007 6:33 pm ET by Joe
Lotta toe kicks are 4" leaving the cab 1/2" too big.
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Piffin,Am I missing something? If the standard base cabinet is 34-1/2" with a 4" toe kick. . . If I remove 4" toe kick that makes cabinet 30-1/2" (34-1/2 - 4")high, no?The opening is 31". . . .http://www.josephfusco.com
Nope - I was the one missing something.
Ever forget you burned that inch?Yeah, That's what she said.;)
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Piffin,No problem ;-)After you posted I had to go back and do the math 4x to make sure I got it right ;-)http://www.josephfusco.org
Here's a drawing.http://www.josephfusco.com
31 1/4" cabinet and a 31" door? I have the solution!
What you need is a shrink rulle. It is made by Starrett, one of the most trusted names in fine measuring tools. Catalogue number is C12-125 or 65793. I got mine from ENCO for ~$10.
The purpose of this rule or tape measure is for building molds for sand casting iron which shrinks 1/8" per foot. So if you want your finished project to be 12" wide, you make the mold 12 1/8" wide. But what if you want something to end up being 9 1/2" wide. Rather than do tedious calculations, you use this handy dandy shrink rule which automatically gives you a shade less than 9 5/8". Are you with me thus far?
So you measure your 31 1/4" cabinet with the shrink rule and it says 30 15/16" and you measure your door with a regular tape measure and it says 31". Viola!, you have 1/16" to spare.
~Peter
Finally a sensible suggestion.
I ended up cutting back the drywall.
Problem solved. Crown moulding on Monday, thanks to all for the suggestions on attaching the crown.
can you remove/cut the toekick assembly and fab up a new one?
this would reduce the height to 30 inches
most of the cabinets i install have a loose toekick/base assembly on the largest cabinets
Its in. We just chopped the drywall. We did consider cutting the toe kick though.