Replies

1. 
   kostello | Jul 16, 2003 08:44pm | #1

   i've got one in a set of forstner bits i got about 4 years ago.

   sizes 1/4" to 2 1/8" in 1/8" steps very resonable about £30 i think

   aleks

2. 
   IMERC | Jul 16, 2003 09:27pm | #2

   LeeValley Veritas.   leevalley.com

   
   

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   Edited 7/26/2003 6:20:48 AM ET by IMERC

1. 
   PhillGiles | Jul 17, 2003 06:05am | #6

   Actually, Lee Valley used to sell a HSS hinge-bit for a couple of bucks, but it seems to have disappeared. But they do have a 35mm saw-tooth bit that's about 1/2 the price of their economy carbide hinge-bit and will cut a cleaner hole than they're professional carbide bit. Check it out.

   PS, if I was doing a LOT of hinges, but didn't have a drill-press, then I'd probably spring for the Veritas hinge boring jig - pricey, but very good..

   Phill Giles

   The Unionville Woodwright

   Unionville, Ontario

1. 
   Adrian | Jul 25, 2003 02:35pm | #8

   If all your drilling is in solid wood, HSS or a saw tooth costs less; if there are any plastics or melamines, go with the carbide, or you'll be using up bits....Lee Valleys pro bit is a good choice, and you can probably get them cheaper at a distributor of cabinet hardware. I don't know what you mean about a cleaner hole (my carbide bits cut very clean holes), but the hinge covers everything up anyway,so looks don't matter.

   The LVT hinge boring jig is a piece of crap, in my opinion. I sent it back.

   the guys that are saying you can use an imperial bit that's close.....close isn't enough with this hardware. There's enough slop in the oversized hole to cause a lot of headaches getting two or more hinges properly aligned. the beauty of this hardware is the ease of installation when the holes are bored right.cabinetmaker/college woodworking instructor. Cape Breton, N.S

1. 
   PhillGiles | Jul 25, 2003 11:20pm | #9

   Well, you think the hinge-boring jig is crap because you have a drill-press (as do I), and that's probably fair; but, if you have do a few by hand, then the jig works quite well.

   You asked about the "clean hole" - as with router bits, the HSS bits do seem to cut a much cleaner hole than the carbide bit do, even if they don't last as long. With some bits/jobs, it's more economical to buy carbide, but for others, like hinge mortising, I'd say the HSS is the better choice and pretty close to break-even on cost..

   Phill Giles

   The Unionville Woodwright

   Unionville, Ontario

1. 
   steve | Jul 26, 2003 12:58am | #10

   for drilling a few doors, the leevalley bit is the best i've tried, that hinge has to be a snug fit for maximum strength, otherwise you are relying on those two tiny screws to hold the hinge to the door

   for a large number of doors the leevalley jig is an excellent investment, i use it everydaycaulking is not a piece of trim

2. 
   Snort | Jul 26, 2003 02:54am | #11

   I've been using one Woodworker's Supplyhttp://www.woodworkerssupply.com/cgi-bin/HOME.exe 35mm forstner bit for 12 years. It's nothing special, and, I'm sure it's made in Taiwan. MDF, hard maple, it doesn't care (no plastic, but only cause I haven't had to), and it's probably bored 200 doors. If you have a drillpress, no need for a jig (I didn't get the impression this was for professional field work).

   And,since when did Euro hinges get to be called fancy?<G> EliphIno!

3. 
   Adrian | Jul 26, 2003 01:04pm | #12

   I don't think the jg works very well....it looks like it should, in fact it looks like a great idea. But it takes way too much effort to drill the hole,and that leads to inaccuracy, and that's not acceptable with Euro hardware. I tried to like it; gave I to one of my guys to try (this was in my shop, before I went back to teaching).....he tried it, asked me if it was broken. We both thought it was crap and it went back. I can buy a decent used drill press for the cost of the jig.

   I stand by what I've said; if all you're drilling is solid wood, HSS may be okay. If you do any plastics and/or particle board, MDF, or plywood, it has to be carbide. LVT's pro carbide bit is what, $47 bucks Cdn? Cheap.cabinetmaker/college woodworking instructor. Cape Breton, N.S

4. 
   migraine | Jul 26, 2003 10:45pm | #13

   I will second the motion...

   Sorry, but using a 1 3/8" forstner bit is just a waste of time...

   Expensive bits, expensive doors, need too much accuracy to make the reveals perfect.  Been there, done that way too many times, especially working in the field. Plus, almost any CHEAP(new or used) drill press will work.

3. 
   nigelUsa | Jul 16, 2003 11:14pm | #3

   Get carbide and spend for a first class bit. Once you have it TEST drill a piece first. At a push 1 3/8" is very close. My first bit has lasted 13 years and just been replaced.

1. 
   JohnSprung | Jul 19, 2003 12:51am | #7

   > At a push 1 3/8" is very close.

   35 mm is 0.003" larger.  If it ever really matters, you could wrap sandpaper around a piece of 1" steel pipe and loosen it up.

   -- J.S.

4. 
   Jamie_Buxton | Jul 17, 2003 12:27am | #4

   Another approach is a plunge router, a template guide, and a round template.    It is better than a drill press on big doors because you don't have to hang a big door off the drill press's small table.  It is better than a handheld drill because it doesn't wander, and there's no danger of drilling through the front of the door. 

1. 
   caseyr | Jul 17, 2003 05:08am | #5

   The router ideas seems good, however, I have an old drill guide that I use occasionally when something can't easily be slipped under a drill press.   These have a depth stop and an adjustable angle.  There are several variations out now but mine is like this one pictured from Sears, although I got mine long before Sears carried them:

   http://www.epinions.com/Shop_Tool_Accessories-Craftsman_Drill_Guide_67173

   Probably lots of variations on the theme out there - a couple are:

   http://www.epinions.com/General_Tools_Precision_Drill_Guide_36_37_Shop_Tools

   http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/favorites.cfm?sku=2406