Replies

1. 
   gstringe | Jan 29, 2008 03:14am | #1

   A buddy of mine bought an extra one for me at one those cheapy tool outlets. Cost $12....big friend he was...trashed on the first job.

   Then I bought a Ryobi which has lasted just fine. Light, easy to trigger and best of all....no smoke comes out!!

   Nobody gets in to see the wizard...not nobody...not no how!
2. 
   Waters | Jan 29, 2008 03:47am | #2

   buy the 170 makita with variable speed.

   variable speed in a grinder makes so many other jobs possible--what wouldn't be at 12,000 rpm.

3. 
   plumbbill | Jan 29, 2008 03:57am | #3

   I would stay away from the super elcheapo unless you plan on using it twice then throwing it away.

   Dewalt 7amp under 50 bucks http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-D28110-Heavy-2-Inch-Grinder/dp/B000BM6BMS/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1201567999&sr=1-2

   Makita 6 amp under 60 bucks http://www.amazon.com/Makita-9553NBKX-4-Inch-Grinder-Grinding/dp/B000BQP2D8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1201567999&sr=1-3

   In search of a new tagline, don't worry I'm sure I'll find one that will bother somebody. ;-þ

4. 
   IMERC | Jan 29, 2008 04:47am | #4

   milwaukee or bosch....

   but not the ones made in china....

    

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

   WOW!!! What a Ride!
   Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

5. 
   DougU | Jan 29, 2008 04:56am | #5

   Jim

   If your not going to use it all that much you can probably go to the big box store and find a name brand one for 50-60 bucks. I'd avoid the Harbor Freight ones.

   Doug

6. 
   rvieceli | Jan 29, 2008 05:42am | #6

   I've got a couple the Dewalt and this Makita.

   http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=10051&langId=-1&catalogId=10053&productId=100006889&N=10000003+90401+527282

   I like the Makita better. I'd suggest going to the big box and find out how they feel in your hand. Stay away from the cheapy no names as they'll fry themselves in short order. (trust me I know) One will probably feel better in your hand than another. Just make sure it can take the wheel you want to use.

   You should be ok for around 50 - 60 bucks.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 1/28/2008 9:43 pm ET by rvieceli

7. 
   Scott | Jan 29, 2008 06:20am | #7

   I think this is certainly a tool that you 'get what you pay for'. I've got a Milwakee that performs very well and I like the switch (for what I do, YMMV). I wish it had a brake though; I've almost been bitten by it a few times. If you're going to use it a lot; pay the bucks.

   Scott.

   Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”

8. 
   Jer | Jan 29, 2008 06:54am | #8

   I have a Craftsman Professional 4", a very good tool. Been with me for about 15 years of constant use.

   and a Makita 4.5" which I've had for about 4 months and so far so good. 4.5" is just that much bigger for cutting into tile etc, and you really can't go wrong with Makita. They make a good tool of this sort.

1. 
   caseyr | Jan 29, 2008 07:24am | #9

   I have the Makita 4" and 4.5" and a Milwaukee 4.5" angle grinders, as well as several larger angle grinders. Generally, I prefer the Milwaukee. It has a paddle switch where as the Makitas have the locking push-on switch. I find that the Makita switches are sometimes difficult to get turned off, particularly with gloves on. There is a fairly long list of 4" and 4.5" angle grinders which might give you thumbnail of the features and relative prices. (I have no knowledge of this company and have never purchased anything from them):
   http://www.mytoolstore.com/compare/cpgrind1.html

2. 
   OldGuy | Jan 29, 2008 07:29am | #10

   I have a Makita 4". Been using for at least 15 years. A buddy (pipe fitter/ welder) gave it to me as he thought it wouldn't last him much longer. Been thinking about getting another just so I don't have to keep dragin' it back and forth from my welding shop to to the wood shop ( or job).

9. 
   cynwyd | Jan 29, 2008 08:09am | #11

   I think features and fit are most important once you are moved up to an industrial tool. Find what fits you hand.

   I really like a paddle switch and a spindle lock like I have on a PC. I have a Mil too that the switch has become balky on.

   For chair seats look at the Lancelot blades, which is essentially a chain saw in a circle. It's a little nerve wracking but the chips fly.

1. 
   JimfromVA | Jan 29, 2008 02:29pm | #12

   Thanks for the replies.  Good advice on the cheap grinders- I know, as I burned out one in no time at all. It was only $10 but now I want a good tool.

   For those with variable speed, is it worth the extra dollars?

1. 
   Henley | Jan 29, 2008 03:57pm | #13

   I have had quite a few four and a halves.Use them for laying stone,which burns them out pretty quick to me they are all made poorly,so I look for the best switch set up. For some reason the manufacturers insist on awkward locks out.That Dewalt trigger is the worst. This is one tool I don't spend big money on any more.

2. 
   Waters | Jan 29, 2008 07:47pm | #14

   I'll elaborate on my rec. for variable speed.

   I first bought the var speed 4" grinder so I could use it to wet grind and polish concrete counters--need about 3,ooo rpm for that.

   I found I used it on slower speeds than just 'on' @ 12,000 rpm for all kinds of other things.

   carving, coping, sanding, sharpening...

   I use the var speed most with a diamond wheel for cutting plaster, sheetrock or masonry when I don't want a lot of dust. 

   When I need to remove a lot of sheetrock or plaster for remodeling I snap a line, tape the shop vac hose to the body of the grinder and buzz away at slower speed without losing much dust at all.

   Pat

1. 
   Heck | Jan 29, 2008 09:16pm | #15

   What type of blade are you using for the plaster/drywall cutting?                        

1. 
   Waters | Jan 30, 2008 03:26am | #16

   15$ masonry diamond blade with a solid rim.

   There's just about NO other way to cut plaster on the wall without damage IMHO.

2. 
   Heck | Jan 30, 2008 04:20am | #17

   Thanks, I'll try that next time, I've got some old blades I have used for tile, stone, etc.                        

3. 
   Waters | Jan 30, 2008 05:52am | #19

   It's soooooo much better than going at it with even a really sharp utility knife.

   Just yesterday in the master br I'm remodeling for someone, I needed to redo the elect ciruit (no ground and recpt. in bad locations) so I snapped a line 24.5" up from the floor and cut all the way around the room lickety split. 

   It'll be a quick and easy fix to patch it all up and the cellulose that's blown in the walls isn't going anywhere.

   P

4. 
   Sphere | Jan 31, 2008 01:41am | #20

   Wanna have some real fun, arbor up a biscut joiner blade. Scary at first but once ya get the feel for it, you can control it just fine.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"

5. 
   Waters | Jan 31, 2008 04:13am | #21

   OMG!

   For what!?

6. 
   Sphere | Jan 31, 2008 04:20am | #22

   Let's see..

   Free hand carving, kerfing in flashing ( Log home here) ,substitue for a jamb saw, any place youd use the chainsaw type disc, but want a smoother or narrower kerf.

   The guard limits the depth of cut and the right angle handle gives great control. Just don't twist and bind it up.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"

7. 
   Waters | Jan 31, 2008 04:34am | #23

   "Just don't twist and bind it up."

   I have a great respect for all things sharp and spinning.

   You know those wierd things that go thru your head occasionally?  There's this one I can't get out of my brain whenever I use the router--and that is--biting the bit.

   It's a really wierd thought.. but it comes up almost always when I use the router and I tell ya--it keeps me conscious!

8. 
   Scott | Jan 31, 2008 08:53am | #24

   >>>Wanna have some real fun, arbor up a biscut joiner blade. Scary at first but once ya get the feel for it, you can control it just fine.Yeah, I've got one of those chainsaw wheels too. Same sort of feeling; but it's a tool that I treat with the utmost fear and respect.Scott,Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”

9. 
   MikeHennessy | Jan 31, 2008 04:28pm | #25

   "Wanna have some real fun, arbor up a biscut joiner blade."

   You sir, are an evil genious. ;-)

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

10. 
    renosteinke | Jan 30, 2008 04:40am | #18

    I sure stirred up a hornet's nest on this forum when I started a thread comparing my Makita to my Harbor Freight grinders - especially when I said some nice things about the Harbor Freight model!

    I suggest you start off with a Harbor Freight grinder. Why? Because, in using it, you will get some ideas about what matters to you .... then you can select a better tool based upon what you want.

    For example, some folks find paddle switches a real blessing; for others, it's a real bother. Even if you prefer the 'normal' switch, the location might not be right.

    Once you've decided on the switch type, the next thing to consider is 'soft start,' variable speed, and other motor details. A more powerful motor can have quite a 'jump' when it starts.

    When you're ready to look at better grinders, by all means go to a store and actually handle them. Subtle differences in barrel shape or handle placement may make a difference to you.

    Finally, there is another option available to you: the angle grinding attachment to the Rotozip tool. It's a PITA to attach, so I would suggest using it on a dedicated tool. I have found it surprisingly controllable.