Replies

1. 
   hammer | Apr 15, 2005 08:11pm | #1

   I did that on one of my decks. Smart way to go. The cement pier is very stable and looks very nice if done right.

   I also used 2-2X10's but sandwiched them over a 2X6. Then drilled a 1/2" hole vertically thru the 2X6 over each pier. When you pour the piers install a 12" X1/2" foundation bolt in each. Extend each high enough about 6". When dry install the beam and washer and nut each bolt.  Pay close attention when tightening. This will prove if you did a good job lining up and leveling the piers. You might need some cedar shims to finish up. Not that I had to (right??)

   The added 2X6 makes the base @4.5" on each pier, so its move stable. Might want to put a piece of roof felt between the concrete and beam even though your using treated lumber.

1. 
   m_t_white | Apr 15, 2005 11:20pm | #2

   how much of a pain in a.. was it to drill the holes in the 2x6?  did you do it free-hand or did you have a drill press?

1. 
   hammer | Apr 15, 2005 11:43pm | #3

   Sounds bad but I can't remember it being a problem. I believe I did it free hand. Use a spade bit. they are good for getting you on track, by checking the depth around the cut as your getting started..... You will drill this before you connect the 2X10's right?

   Edited 4/15/2005 4:46 pm ET by hammer-n

2. 
   davidmeiland | Apr 16, 2005 12:10am | #4

   Better to just use a 4x10 and avoid the issues with moisture getting and staying between the pieces of a sandwiched beam, especially with a deck that is low to the ground and is going to get less ventilation under it. The exception would be if you flash the entire top of the sandwich with sheet metal or torch-down roofing. Might be a good idea to get and read the current issue of JLC... there's a deck article.

1. 
   hammer | Apr 16, 2005 12:21am | #5

   The 2X6 doesn't run the length of the beam... I Cut them into 10'' blocks.

1. 
   davidmeiland | Apr 16, 2005 06:01am | #6

   I'm not following that... how does the 2x6 fit in?

   Any time you have a sandwich with a joint along the top you are inviting (guaranteeing) water in there, and it will stay wet and accelerate the decay process, even with PT lumber.

1. 
   hammer | Apr 18, 2005 05:53pm | #7

   The 2X6 is used as a tie down to the concrete pier. The doubled 2X10's are lag bolted from each side to the 2X6. After the fondation bolt is tightened an additional 2 X can be added above it for spacing, but once the joists are attached it is very sturdy.

   Good point about the moisture getting between the sandwiched layers.  Would be wise to add silicone to the 2x6 to seal out the water... or maybe PL400 would be both structural and water tight... 

1. 
   davidmeiland | Apr 20, 2005 05:42am | #8

   The JLC author uses torch-down roofing on the tops of his posts and beams.

2. 
   hammer | Apr 20, 2005 07:07pm | #9

   Does this "torch down roofing" get between the deck joists and beam? Where does the water go that leaks past the nails fastening the two together?

   I always plan my beam placement (planned cantilever) directly under a decking board. This keeps the majority of the rain/snow water off.

3. 
   davidmeiland | Apr 22, 2005 04:49am | #10

   I think it does. I highly recommend you pick up a copy of the newest issue, Journal of Light Construction, or go to jlconline.com and pay a few bucks to read the article. It has several good ideas for anyone about to do a deck.