I have a General International 50-185 Table Saw. I believe it runs at 1.5-2.0 hp. I’m looking to buy a dado set and I’m deciding between a 6 inch and 8 inch. Any reason to buy one or the other? I’m going to use it for case construction, built-ins, etc. Also, if you have any thoughts on the Forrest vs. Freud, I would appreciate hearing them.
As always, thanks to everyone in the Breaktime forums. This resource is priceless.
Frank R.
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Replies
From what I've read and figured out on my own, an 8" set will give a better cut than a 6", basically because it weighs more and, once up to speed, will be able to plow through without slowing down. Either set should have plenty depth of cut for what you want to do.
As far as Freud vs. Forrest? All the reviews I've read have put the Forrest set at the top, although there some others that are quite close. The various woodworking magazines review dado sets every couple of years. You might try googling Fine Woodworking, American Woodworker, or Wood magazine for their reviews.
My 8" Freud set runs true, cuts flatbottom dados, the shim set that comes with it allows micro adjustment of width, and the teeth are on their first resharpening.
I am running it on a Jet 10" contractor saw, with 1.5HP motor, wired for 220V, and using the segmented belt for vibration reduction.
Get the Freud, and spend the money you'll save on some zero-clearance inserts, a few of which you will need for various common dado widths. Seems no matter where you get them, inserts run about $20 each.
I have a Forrest. But it isnt cheap. The
larger one may stay sharp longer. But
then I suppose it may flex more. Works
very well.
Their all purpose Woodworker blade
is pretty amazing too.
I have a Task 8" dado set; can't complain about it at all. I had a set of Lee Valley plastic 'micro' shims but I tossed them after the third time I had to curse the danged things on and off the spindle. (Center hole was too tight.) So I use a mangy assortment of brass washers and spacers I've stripped out of old motors over the years. Takes a bit of patience but always works out quite well in the end.
I run the dado set mostly on a 1.0hp Delta-Rockwell TS, but will occasionally use it on a lightweight portable site saw with direct drive. The blades and chippers are massive enough to soak up the vibration on that tooth-rattler and still cut true.
As to 0-clearance inserts, do people really buy those?? I just cut and rabbet a piece of melamine board to the right size, drop it into the hole in the table, and then bring the spinning blade set up through it slowly. Seems to me if you're a serious enough woodworker to need a dado set, making one's own inserts shouldn't be a big deal. Yes/No/Maybe? Just my 7 cents worth....
Dinosaur
A day may come when the courage of men fails,when we forsake our friends and break all bonds of fellowship...
But it is not this day.
Like you, I've made my own 0 clearance inserts for a long time. I usually use 1/2" Baltic birch ply, and put some small screws as levelers.
And if I'm smart enough that day, I mark 'em so I know what width they're for.
I use the melamine because it's hard, flat (in small pieces like that), and slippery. And it's also one of the few types of scrap I can't use as kindling for the woodstove, so pieces of it tend to accumulate until I think of uses for them, LOL....
Yeah, little screws for leveling. I use #4x½" oval-heads.
As to what size they're fore, I just write on it with a marker afterwards and then hope I don't lose it or forget I made one that size before the next time I need it....
Dinosaur
A day may come when the courage of men fails,when we forsake our friends and break all bonds of fellowship...
But it is not this day.
My old saw had a standard oval type inser about 1/2" thick. I found I could flip it end for end and have two slots in the same insert..say a 1/4" dado and a regular width blade for say a 45 degree tilt.
My newer ridgid has a THIN metal plate, so I started using 1/4 inch LEXAN for inserts.
Don't forget to drill a finger hole to get it back out! Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Not bad, dude. My Delta has the slot offset, too. I can use the same trick. I'll remember that one.
Dinosaur
A day may come when the courage of men fails,when we forsake our friends and break all bonds of fellowship...
But it is not this day.
Hi Dinosaur,
You might want to try using a new deck of playing cards as shims. By law, they're ten-thousandths thick - a convenient calibration.
I drill a hole through the entire pack, while still in the box, a smidge larger than the 5/8" diamater of my arbor.
Playing cards also work great as shims for other purposes. For example, When I have to make a slightly tapered cut, as when trimming door stiles to compensate for a cabinet that's slightly out-of-square, I place shims between the door rail and the rear fence on the sliding crosscut table on the table saw until the desired taper is acheived; then saw away.
Good luck,-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
Dat's brilliant!!
Quick--you better sell that idea to FHB for Tips-n-Techniques before one of us steals it and gloms the cash, LOL....
Dinosaur
A day may come when the courage of men fails,when we forsake our friends and break all bonds of fellowship...
But it is not this day.
brilliant !.....
a guiness for jazzdog !Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Thanks, Mike!
You mean I finally did something right?
The implications are overwhelming!
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
I didn't know that. More useful info from BT. Thanks.Now I'll have to go but a deck of cards.
You think anyone will notice the hole if I want to use them in a game?
Maybe if you played cards with golfers they'd think nothing of a hole in one, but an entire deck?-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
I'm sorry, but increments in ten thou? I don't work that rough, especially when using my store-bought zero-clearance inserts!
"spend the money you'll save on some zero-clearance inserts"
Hi Stinger,
Buy zero-clearance table saw inserts?
I make my own from scrap ply or mdf in batches of a dozen or so. Clamp a piece of scrap lumber across the tablesaw to hold the throat place in place, and slowly raise the saw blade. Quick, easy, and inexpensive.
-Jazzdogg-
"Don't ask yourself what the world needs. Ask yourself what makes you come alive, and go do that, because what the world needs is people who have come alive." Gil Bailie
My 10" TS and 12" SCM blades are Forrest - they are awesome and I feel completely worth the cost. BUT... my dado is a Freud 6".
I just don't cut that many dados and couldn't justify the cost of the Forrest. Also, the dados I cut are all shallow so the 6" is plenty. I've been very happy with the Frued. The only thing it (or I suspect most dado sets) can't do is cut dados for 1/4" (7/32") plywood.
I use the DD208 from HD about $95.00 now, has metal shims. But if I'm making furniture, I use a router.
Joe
I have an 8" Systi-Matic dado set that works great. I also got a set of magnetic shims (2 at .010, 2 at .012, and 2 at .015) that make the setup a breeze. Non-magnetic shims want to drop into the arbor threads and that's a major PITA. The magnetic shims stick to the blades/chippers and don't slip.
I also make my own inserts for the common dados (1/2" & 3/4"). I mark the setup on the insert so I don't have to trust my (alleged) memory - lol.
Systi-matic here too. Got it in around 1990...price on the box says 208.00$ ! Damm, I musta had some dough back then.!
Great set. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
l have both the Freud and Forrest (8"), and here's my take:
Both will plow a dado, so it really depends on how much you will use it and what you will use it for.
I use mine mainly for joinery in cabinet-grade plywood carcases, so that entails a lot of cross grain dadoing. The Freud was doing okay, but there was always at least a little splintering along the cut edge.
I met a Forrest guy at a wwing show, and he said theirs would cut cross grain with zero splintering, and if I didn't find that to be the case on my saw, he would give me a refund and pay the postage to send it back.
He was absolutely right, and even after using it for hundreds of cabinet boxes, the thing is still cutting with nary a splinter.
So, if you're looking for a utilitarian dado set, the Freud will do fine, but if you want a dado that will perform flawlessly with difficult materials -- like melamine or hardwood plywoods -- you should consider the Forrest.
BTW, whichever way you go, a zero clearance insert is indispensable. I have a separate insert I use for each of the most common dado cuts -- 1/4", 3/8", 1/2", etc.
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
And of course you made your own inserts, right? If so, give us a short course in making them. I am always ready to hear tips and techniques.
I use 1/2" Baltic birch, use the OEM insert as a pattern, rough cut them to size with a bandsaw. Then I use double-sided carpet tape to fix the OEM insert to the one I am making (to serve as a pattern), and use my router with a pattern making bit to get the finished shape.I then countersink (from the top of the insert), nip off the points of a 3/4" screw -- and these are used to adjust the insert so it is dead flush with the surface of the TS.I used to drive a small finish nail on the back of the insert, so it would hold the thing in place when the saw started --- but now, I just routinely pull the fence over the top of the insert before I start the saw.To cut through the insert for the first time, I clamp down the fence, and just use a push stick to press down on the insert when I am raising the blade. And I always raise the blade higher on this first cut than it will ever have to be for a finished cut. There is no functional reason to do so, but I always brush on a couple coats of WB poly, just because I am compulsive. Heck, I even varnish my push sticks..................********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
Nikkiwood and everyone else who responded,
Thanks for the input. I'm getting the Forrest 8 inch. I have a Forrest Woodworker II on my TS now and it is great. I live close to the Forrest plant in Clifton. Last time I drove over and purchase the blade in person. Very helpful staff. I'll drive over this month pick up the dado set.
As always, thanks for the help.
Frank R.