Hey guys —
I work quite a bit on “Log Home Packages” from various companies throughout the USA.
One of these companies ships P.T. 2x8x8 for their sill material.
In my mind, there is just something wrong with using 8′ sill pieces when dealing with long walls. I think that using the longest possible sill piece with the fewest breaks would be the best approach – and when we are in charge of the material purchases, I always use the longest lengths possible.
Any feedback?
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Replies
I have learned to always buy the longest length possible..when i needed some full 8' 2x6..they were all trash and waned..so i also needed some 16' ers..when I was getting them..they were SU-weeet...so I off loaded the 8's and got ALL 16's..so I had to make a cut extra..so what? The quality of longer lengths is set by the mill..and they don't cost that much more vs 2 @ 8'..
For sills..yup all 16's for me..if I have a really snotty hunk I want to be able to cut it out..use it for some other place..no waste.
Just in.... a friend of mine in NC just got a price on 7/16 OSB...HOLD ON NOW......26.00$ per................yikes.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Great. $3 gas and $26 OSB. Does tarpaper and corrugated steel still meet codes?
Iraq is gunna have to re-build US..my buddy was told that from 2 yards there..Lowes was the cheapest @ 16.97. Gas here went up 20cents today...1.79..reg unlead.
I am seriously considering more metal roofing and skip sheathing..here come the good old days....
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Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
"Does tarpaper and corrugated steel still meet codes?"
Have you priced steel lately ???The perfect lover is one who turns into a pizza at 4:00 a.m. [Charles Pierce]
Nope. I guess everything is going up except my income. Oh well.
1/2" Advantech - $19.55
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Why is it that you think the 8' lumber is a big deal? I don't see a problem with it. Seems more like personal preference.
For you guys who like 16' stuff - Remember it's a prime length. In many sizes and grades of lumber that I deal with, 16' is the most expensive per foot. In some cases, 18' lumber is actually CHEAPER than 16' per piece.
Try looking at buying some 14' stuff. Not much shorter, but can be a heck of a lot cheaper.
I rely on my personality for birth control.
8' sills are a PITA because you have more splices which means more double bolts. I order 16s and 20s for sills.
If you had to bolt every end down somehow due to local codes, I can see where that would be a pain.
Never seen that done, though. Is it required in your area?If sex is such a natural phenomenon, how come there are so many books on how to do it? [Bette Midler]
Bolts not more than 4' apart, not more than 12" from the end of each piece, not closer than 7 bolts diameters to the end, not less than two bolts per piece. Last foundation was about 150 lf, had some zigs and zags, took 50-plus 5/8 x 12 j-bolts.
I second the earlier reply - shorter lumber means a great deal more bolts. In addition, shorter lumber means that the foundation guys will NEVER get the bolts right anyway, just because they have no idea how I will be cutting the lumber.
Also, every little jog in the foundation requires more planning and thought in order to maximize the use of materials.
I amazes me that you don't have codes regarding sill plate attachment where you are. Even without codes though, 12" from the ends and 4' or 6' o.c. is just standard building practice and adheres to the IBC.
Well, it may be "standard building practice" where you are. It isn't here.
Remember that what's "standard" is very much relative to where you are.One doesn't discover new lands without consenting to lose sight of the shore for a very long time.
Sorry Boss -
Not picking a fight. I was more referring to the IBC specs.
That and I thought we had the most lenient codes in the universe here in good old central Ohio.
Thanks for the reply.
what parts of central ohio are you framing in?
delaware,licking, and franklin counties have fairly astute building departments.
course fairfield, knox, morrow,perry,logan and parts of union have no structural permit requirement" just pay the zoning and call us when you're moved in..."
oh i agree- lineal for any plating.
8's and 10's are garbage more often than not.
hub
Edited 3/7/2004 7:26:29 PM ET by hubcap
Ah yes... Delaware.
I'm going through the Delaware process right now on a log garage, hubcap.
I was referring to Knox and Fairfield, and one other site we worked at down near Athens, I guess.
It's crazy - the last job we did down in Fairfield - no inspections, nothing! No final, no footer no nothin' !
It's like that here in Mount Vernon also... but drive 10 minutes down the road, and it's back to footing / foundation / plumbing / elect rough / masonry fireplace / hearth / hvac rough / structural / insulation / plumbing final / elect final / hvac final / building final.
13 for Delaware - 0 for Knox :)
I'm all for inspections though. Back up North, it was a matter of course. About time the rest of the world caught up.
Where do you do most of your work hubcap?
well let's see- i live in granville ( sing out if yer headin down 661- i will happily buy you a beverage or three- )so as much as i can i work near here.
I have built homes in delaware, franklin,fairfield,knox and licking counties. Remodeled and rennovated as far away as Texas.
spent most of 2002 and early 2003 on a farm house rennovation five miles east of mount vernon off 3. we tore down the original farmhouse ( circa 1850 )on account of termite damage- saved a small 1970's addition on account of how ugly it was and i couldn't find any matches and the damn brick wouldn't burn anyway.
finished it out at a little over 4400 sq ft. if you know where the breeze-in is then you know where this house is.
grew up in delaware county out by alum creek. it used ta be a quiet little place.
i am supposed to be bidding a couple of log homes in apple valley sometime soon, i can get in touch when i get the plans if you like.
take care
hub
Yeah, we get around too. For the last 10 years or so we've been working on log structures from ME to Indianna. Trying to quit the travel though - it gets hard on the family life.
We've been driving through Granville every day for the last 6 months or so on our way down to Lancaster. Beautiful town and all, but I'm glad to be working closer to home again!
I seem to recall the "Breeze In," up on top of the hill. Can't place the farmhouse, but I'll probably notice it next time I go by.
We transplanted back to OH about 4 years back. I'm from upstate NY. My wife is from Ohio though. She spent some time out near Delaware on a little horse farm - 3 B & K road or someting like that?
Well, if you ever get too much work we'll be happy to help ya out on a log home :)
grew up two miles from 3 b+k. we mighta cross paths .
small world and all that.
yer not dynacraft builders by any chance? seems like i remember them being from up mt vernon way...
have a good one.
Hey Hubcap - got a line on any excavators for a small job in Sunbury / Galena area?
My wife's maiden name is Trubey, she lived on a small horse farm for awhile in her teen years.
Nope, not Dynacrafters. http://www.wildforest.com
Well - off to do sill plates in the snow :)
Facemeyers excavating off woodtown road- 'bout five miles outside of sunbury.
don't remember that name.
off to build more cabinets...
So, how are sills attached where you are? Or are they just sitting on the concrete with no attachment?
Around here you typically see 1/2" anchor bolts 6' O.C. I've never seen anyone bother to add bolts (or anything) on the ends of board splices.
Generally they just toenail the ends of the sills together.One test is worth a thousand expert opinions. [Bill Nye the Science Guy]