Have an a-frame cabin and want to frame in dormer to add more usable space and let more light in. Cabin has interior exposed 2 x 6 common rafters (24 oc) without ridge board. I Know I have to double (or triple) up on the dormer end rafters, but I’m not sure how to tie in without ridge board. Do I have to double (or triple) up on the opposing side as well? Can anybody help?
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Greetings rps,
as a first time poster Welcome to Breaktime.
This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again which will increase it's viewing.
Perhaps it will catch someone's attention that can help you with advice.
Cheers
94969.19 In the beginning there was Breaktime...
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Is this a true A-frame, or just a very steep gable roof?
In a true A-frame, the 'rafters' between the frames are not structural except to the extent that they keep the roof sheathing flat. Are those the 2x6 rafters you mentioned?
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
Good morning,
It's a true a-frame (see pic). I had tree damage to the roof and using this opportunity to add gable dormer on the side to increase usable space. All the dormer plans I've seen show the addition onto framing with a ridge board. My a-frame has no ridge board. Looking for ideas. Thx.
i have a true a-frame in NH. It has two bedrooms on the second floor. A bump out for dining was done in 86'. The camp survived a tree (large pine) in 05', still lookking for those picture on computer.
I'm used to seeing a traditional dormer on an A-frame....the bump out is very unique.
I like it - especially the bay window incorparated with it.
How has it been concerning water leaking?
Pedro the Mule - I don't know if I could bump out - kick out YES!
The addition roof doesn't have a great deal of slope but inaddition to good insulation a waterproof membrane covered that section of the roof before shingles.
Edited 3/9/2009 7:53 pm ET by lukes
The dormer can be framed in one of two ways: either you frame it as an A-frame (and run the frames of the dormer down to the actual A-frame of the existing chalet), or you stick-frame it with structural stud walls sitting on support that transfers vertically down to the foundation through internal posts or walls on the 'first floor'. In the second case, the dormer walls would be what hold up the dormer roof, which could be rafter-framed or truss-framed or some combination thereof.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
I am "not" a structural engineer so this is purely "my take" based on your photo.
It doesn't appear that you are carrying a stand up loft or anything of that weight bearing capacity so I'd simply pop-in a couple of structurally tied collars from the new double rafters and the sides of the opposing rafters. That should bridge/triangulate the forces.
For this sized cabin structure, the added weight to the roof shouldn't be an issue but I would most definitely run the dormer end wall all the way out and down to the existing foundation. This will maximze your room inside and put a significant amount of the total weight loading on the exterior foundation and minimize what is carried by the roof.
But that's me so I'll probably get slammed for suggesting anything other than to "see" an engineer.
Any particular reason "not' to double/sister the rafters on the other side?
Pedro the Mule - Don't use my back to hold that thing up!
look like his definition of live loads should include falling trees based on that photo.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Does lend new meaning to "Tree" House.
He could build a fireplace around it and wouldn't have to hall it since it's already in.
More?
Pedro the Mule - I ain't draggin' that log around
Another A Frame dormer in NH
I also have a true A frame in NH. mine is built what i'll call Post and Beam style construction. the roof is supported by 6"x8" Fir beams 8 feet apart and the roof sheathing is 2x6 T&G laid on top of the beams.
its 3 stories tall. I'd like to have a "dormer" built from the ground floor all the way up to the ridge beam. at the back half of the building. foot print is 24'x32', I'd probably want to keep the dormer to 16' wide to keep it between three of the 6x8 beams.
I want to maximize the additional square footage so the dormer would not be an A frame, but straight up. the roof would be pretty flat out to the side to maximize the head room on the third floor.
would I need to have the middle roof beam in the middle of the dormer remain in place for structure or could it be removed?
I wish I could see RPS52's photos, but they must have been removed from this post.
thanks,
Mike.
I've attached 3 pictures of the three stories of the area where I want to build the dormer.
Another A Frame dormer in NH
I also have a true A frame in NH. mine is built what i'll call Post and Beam style construction. the roof is supported by 6"x8" Fir beams 8 feet apart and the roof sheathing is 2x6 T&G laid on top of the beams.
its 3 stories tall. I'd like to have a "dormer" built from the ground floor all the way up to the ridge beam. at the back half of the building. foot print is 24'x32', I'd probably want to keep the dormer to 16' wide to keep it between three of the 6x8 beams.
I want to maximize the additional square footage so the dormer would not be an A frame, but straight up. the roof would be pretty flat out to the side to maximize the head room on the third floor.
would I need to have the middle roof beam in the middle of the dormer remain in place for structure or could it be removed?
I wish I could see RPS52's photos, but they must have been removed from this post.
thanks,
Mike.
I've attached 3 pictures of the three stories of the area where I want to build the dormer.