Last week I posted photos of “A new bathroom” in my c.1838 Greek Revival house in western New York State.
A few expressed interest in seeing more pictures, so here are photos of two porches … a restored front porch and a new side porch.
Both projects involved a lot of sill repair (American beech is a dense wood, but not very rot resistant), some foundation work and replicating original wood detailing.
-Allen
First, the front (south) porch:
Replies
Here is the side porch. While no porch originally existed here, its location is historically appropriate for a Greek Revival house.
-Allen
Magnificent.
What are you doing today?
Very nice work, thank you for bringing that home back.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Calvin:Thanks for checking out the photos. For the next week or so I'm still wrapping up the bathroom project (running heating ductwork) and a recent chimney project.After that, the front hallway and west parlor. Doors and door openings were altered c.1900. They did a nice job matching existing trim, but the scale of the doorways is not good. Plus, I have to restore an original closet at the end of the hallway to hide that new bathroom plumbing!Allen
I love porches. The one you added looks like it was there all along.
You have a great house and your work is very admirable.
JAlden: Thanks. I like porches, too. My wife enjoys the new one. On summer weekend mornings she's out there enjoying her coffee and paper and the morning sun.Design-wise there were a few compromises. There was very little height and depth to work with, so the roof slope is minimal, especially for the cedar shingles. And there wasn't enough height to do the cornice detailing the way I would have liked.Also, to center the doorway within a "bay," the column spacing had to be a bit too wide, I think.All-in-all, though, I'm pleased. Just wish that offensive door, window and T-111 siding were gone before I posted photos!Allen
Allen, I really appreciate renovation. I appreciate renovation that looks good and fools the eye into thinking it was original. I know minimal about period design, but what you did certainly looks oldstyle, but well kept. I can't pay you a better complement than to say it doesn't look like you did anything to the place (that would be w/o seeing the b/4's, that's for sure).
Nice job!A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Wow, that is just great work. I am always grateful when I can see work like this....that's not a mistake, it's rustic
Allan
Very well done,You should be proud.
Man I really like the color of that house, especially against that white background.
Is that your barn in the background of that one pic?
Doug
Doug:Thanks for the feedback. Wood-constructed Greek Revival houses were most often white with grass-green shutters. Yellow ochre was also a common body color, based on period paintings I've seen. An informal paint analysis suggests this particular house was probably white with green shutters and a green front door. We wanted some color, though, and went with the yellow.I still have many shutters to build. For accuracy, I have a fragment of one of the original rolling slat shutters, as well as an old photo. Also, two sets of original shutters remain in place; they're fixed-louver as they cover faux window openings that are for exterior symmetry only.If I recall correctly, the background barn in one of the photos is my neighbor's. I have a large barn also ... and that's yet another ongoing project. I'll post some photos next week, perhaps.Allen
That is extremely nice. ....... And you did an excellent job on documenting the progress and extent of the work.
What did you use on the porch floor? I am asking because I'm interested if you used or considered Tendura.
"All men's miseries derive from not being able to sit in a quiet room alone." Pascal
Intrepid:
Thanks!
For the floors, I used 5/4 tongue-and-groove southern yellow pine because that was readily available. I tried to reject any flat-sawn pieces, but economics forced me to use some. The paint is much happier on the straight-grain quartersawn boards.
RE: Tendura. No, I didn't consider it.
Allen
Edited 12/14/2005 6:56 pm ET by WNYguy
Truely inspireing. Full of envy here.
Do I understand correctly? you do this as a hobby? not your real job?
GoodLuck
Steve:
Thanks very much for the comments.
Yes, just a hobby. Well, maybe "obsession" is a better word. I've been researching and photographing Federal and Greek Revival architecture for the past 17 years ... and working on my own homes for more than 20.
I'm a graphic designer by profession, though I'm working on a five-year plan "retire" from my desk job and start producing reproduction furniture (from the Greek Revival period). That's five years to get my skills, knowledge and finances to a point where I can seriously give it a try.
Meanwhile, I'm a "student" here on the Taunton message boards ... learning a lot by mostly just lurking and reading posts from you folks who make a living at homebuilding, cabinetmaking and furniture construction.
Allen
Hey Allen-
I'm really impressed by your home and the work you've done on it! My own home -Zippyland- is a sort of vernacular Greek Revival brick that I'm spending far more time and money on than I ever guessed I would.
I'm particularly interested in your outbuildings as this is my next step in the process. Can you give any advice or point me in a direction for information about high-lime mortar restoration? I have an old barn foundation (barn is long gone) that I'd like to repair in a traditional way, but just don't know where to start.
Thanks!=====Zippy=====
Zippy:E-mail me if you'd like more specific instructions, but here's a quick overview on matching existing mid-19th century (and earlier) mortars.Generally, you'll use 1 part hydrated lime to 3 parts sand (by volume).The hydrated lime is sold in farm and garden supplies for about $6 per 50 lb bag. The sand should be roughly 2 parts fine sand to 1 part coarse sand. Add enough water to make a peanut-butter consistency.You can mix ALL the mortar you need all at once; if the mix is kept moist and sealed, it won't set, and you can use it at your leisure. I built a large "tub" and lined and covered it with plastic.For use at or below grade level, you can add 1 part portland per 4 parts lime. But you'll have to use these batches as you mix them.To exactly match the original mortar, you'll need to match the composition, color and weathering.The composition is determined by dissolving the lime from an original sample, then drying the resulting sand and sifting it through several grades of screens. You also will probably see white chunks of lime visible in your original mortar. The best matches match this aspect also.The color is determined by the color of the DRY sand from the original sample. You'll also usually need to tint the lime with yellow ochre pigment, as modern lime is very pure and VERY white.Matching the weathering of the original exposed mortar is accomplished by lighty brushing the new mortar when it is semi-set, and by misting it lightly with a water spray to expose the sand. The last step is diluted-acid wash.If there are large areas that need to be rebuilt, I use a basic lime mortar (described above), leaving the stones clean and the joints recessed. Then I mix enough MATCHING mortar to point between the stones.Again, if you'd like more details, e-mail me.Allen
Zippy:I looked up some notes from that barn foundation project. To rebuild the section of collapsed foundation, we figured:180 total cubic feet (stone and mortar) = 72 cubic feet of mortarFor 72 cubic feet of mortar, we estimated:24 bags of lime
2.4 tons of fine sand
1.2 tons of coarse sandThat worked out quite accurately. We rented a cement mixer for a day, and mixed all the mortar in one afternoon. I built a plastic-lined box that was 12 inches deep by 8 feet by 10 feet.A year later we mixed another batch to accurately match the original mortar. With this batch, I pointed up this portion of reconstructed wall; we mixed enough, also at that time, to repoint other deteriorated areas around the perimeter of the foundation.Photo of the reconstructed area is attached below.Allen
Looks fantastic. Nice to see the house returned to its former glory and not just 'modernized'.
Now I have to go find the BA pics.
jt8
"The cynic is one who knows the price of everything and the value of nothing." --Oscar Wilde
Edited 12/14/2005 10:35 am by JohnT8
Very nice work. You should be proud.
What does you interior trim look like? Is it still intact?
I too live in a Greek Revival (ca1852). Mine has tapered casings (from baseboard to head of doors/windows) w/ pedimented tops and "ears". Really cool looking.
I have to re-trim the columns on my front porch next year, what type of wood did you use (mine will also be painted white)?
Very nice, you've done a great job of making it look like a well kept old beauty...who says you can't make 'em like they used to<G> Hey, pocket doors can't come off the track if they're nailed open
Pickings:
Nearly all the original interior woodwork is intact, with several different styles throughout the house. All the doors are two-panel (vertical panels), with a heirarchy of four levels of "fanciness" (moldings, raised panels, etc.), depending on the location.
I know the style door surround you describe ... there's a specific term for it which escapes me now. The woodwork in my east parlor is very similar to that.
For the column bases, I milled treated southern yellow pine. I chose quarter-sawn pieces with straight, fairly tight grain. I put metal spacers under the bases so there'd be some air circulation. I've never had a problem painting the old treated lumber. Haven't tried the new stuff yet.
The columns themselves are white pine. I used rough-sawn (one face) so the exposed edge would be close to one-inch thick, rather than three-quarters.
Enjoy your Greek Revival house. Post some photos!
Allen