Jet and her Dad had two storge lockers rented, one 5×8 full of boxes of books, and the other 10×12, with a bunch of boxes, bookshelves, and some furniture. About $200 a month for the two of them.
I’ve been trying to get them to let me build them a storage shed for three years. About $3600 worth of time.
This is a 10×16 simple shed on 4 4×6 skids. The flooring is 2×4 @ 16″ OC, a double 2×4 rim joist, and blocking under all sheathing seams, cantilevered 1′ on each side. The wall and roof framing is 2×4, placed only under sheathing seams, IOW, 4′ OC, except in the rear wall, where I used the 1′ wide rips from around the 4′ wide front door.
All untreated lumber that is outside the T-111 sheathing has been very liberally coated with 20yo linseed oil.
In this overall pic, you can see the 1×4 corner trim that was left over from when the main house was built in 1978. The smaller trim is just cedar 1×2.
In this Gable End detail, you can see the results of a planning error. I built the floor exactly 16′ long. The wall sheathing sits outside the floor, lapping below the rim joist. That meant the the roof shething would sit inside the walls. Oops! I set the gable end sheathing up flush with the roof skin and added a ripped 27yo redwood 2x as a decorative drip/facia. A little piece of T-111 on the rafter tail, and I say I planned that way to all who ask.
This Eybrow Detail shows how I flashed it. I slid pieces of leftover siding up under the redwood facia over the turned up shingle and tacked it in place. The little diamond cut piece of shingle is covering the last roffing nail. I did that to all exposed nails on the roof.
Here’s how I electrified the shed
This is the total waste from about $1900 of material, except for just under 1 bundle of roofing.
And here’s what it looked like the day after I finished it.
Replies
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Nice looking shed Sam, but I'm curious.
How do you control the indoor environment. If they're storing books and papers, aren't they going to deteriorate with moisture accumulating in the building, heat buildup, and swings in both temperature and humidity? How secure is it from rodent intrusion?
I ask because I've thought of using my shed (built before I purchased my house) for storage of household items, but storage of anything not already made for the outdoors (i.e., garden tools) is problematic for just those reasons.
Did you put plastic or anything under the shed's floor to prevent moisture migration upwards into the shed or insulation or ventilation to control the levels of moisture and heat?
Thanks.
Any shed is always valued.
I like to maximize storage potential as much as possible.
Thus I'm an advocate of always raising the structure off the ground 1 1/2 to 2 ft on piers for lumber supply and air flow with ceiling joists for top storage with screened vents.
Fonz- bet you had fun building it. ;o)
Junkhound- what are you doing in here?
be looking for square inches.
'Nemo me impune lacesset'No one will provoke me with impunity
Edited 1/11/2006 12:55 pm ET by razzman
Thus I'm an advocate of always raising the structure off the ground 1 1/2 to 2 ft on piers for lumber supply and air flow with ceiling joists for top storage with screened vents.
2 feet?! Get the darn track hoe out and lets do a proper basement with 9' ceilings :)
I've been through a couple new houses in the last year that had 9' ceilings in the basement. Kinda odd not to be able to reach up and touch the basement ceiling. But the practical side of me wondered what happened when the power went out on those sumps.jt8
"The test is to recognize the mistake, admit it and correct it. To have tried to do something and failed is vastly better than to have tried to do nothing and succeeded."-- Dr. Dale Turner
2 feet?! Get the darn track hoe out and lets do a proper basement with 9' ceilings
you buy and I'll fly.
be expanding
'Nemo me impune lacesset'No one will provoke me with impunity
Razz
Thus I'm an advocate of always raising the structure off the ground 1 1/2 to 2 ft on piers for lumber supply and air flow with ceiling joists for top storage with screened vents.
You store lumber under the raised shed? On or close to the ground? Doesn't that cause it's own problems with the lumber? And, doesn't the stored lumber interrupt the air flow you've been trying to establish?
What do you for access into the shed? Build stairs or a long ramp? Be kinda tough on the old John Deere, not to mention my old knees, to get in and out w/o something.Griff
6 mil plastic and lumber sitting up on bricks. Still plenty of wind blowing thru there.
Step up platform for the entries. Now if I was planning on pulling a mower or whatever in there I'd be thinking more along the lines of a concrete pad of sorts.
be anti-mice
'Nemo me impune lacesset'No one will provoke me with impunity
Rez is right .
Hes utililizing yet more storage under the same roof. A four foot ramp is the only added expense.
Still with a rounded off ramp old John Deere would scoot in there over the ramp. What might keep him from it would be a high point from the ramp to the building getting caught high centered. A little trick from handicap access experience solves it making rounded points of entry when the gradient cant be set to code .
On the other hand a storage building is not used for entry very much unless its a carps tool shed for his every day tools. If DW uses it she will likely forget what the insides even look like after she fills it. JMI
Another touch to Rez,s solution is an attic door thats screened plus a floored top storage. That would also provide a ceiling too to keep stuff like paint from freezing in some climates. With the building two feet from the ground and an added ceiling with venting in the top storage door there would be no damp air to enter the building and it would then be sealed from moisture. .
Still yet another touch would be a doubled 7/16th floor with tarpaper between layers for a drier building . The bottom sheeting would be treated of course.
A metal door unit , plus a window for southern exposure and you could store all the books you wanted to .
Tyvek over the exterior framing would help with moisture or 3 coats of oil paint on the exterior.
Tim
Thanks. Lots of good suggestions to incorporate into planning. I have a garage door on my shed now that's a real blessing for entry and removal of anything. Bit too close to the ground though so moisture is a problem for me - even with the ventilation installed at top and the entry holes created by the critters.Griff
Griff,
Uhh. . . That's not really one of their concerns. Compared to the two story pole barn that is quite litter-ally stuffed with books and papers and some rather valuable knick-knacks, my shed is the perfect conditioned-space storage suitable even for the Louvre.
Besides. . . it's only TEMPORARY, LOL.
SamT
SamT:
Your shed is suitable for the Louvre, huh. So, like, I can head over and see the Mona Lisa or some paintings from Monet's early years? Cool! I may hire you to build my next shed.
Truth be told, it did look solidly constructed and I saw the vents in the ceiling. It's just here in Connecticut everything inside an outdoor shed is musty and damp and subject to mice and larger cousins chewing their way inside for shelter. Must be all the nutmeg we used to not grow. I'm almost considering putting a metal frame around the band joist under the siding as a means of slowing their progress. But they'd probably chew through aluminum too and 1/4" steel seems a might overkill.Griff
Griff,
vents in the ceiling
What vents? I didn't put any vents in.
Then only really "solid" parts are the Gable ends, as they have to hold up the ridge beam to keep the sides from blowing out. It was built whith the maximum 'engineering and minimum material I thought would work.
We will be adding more structure to it at a later date when it gets remodeled into an office or a Therapeutic Massage Studio. .
SamT
You're right. Looked again - no vents. Don't remember what I was thinking of when I wrote that. Sorry.Griff