I’ve spent some time (quite a bit actually) perusing various archived BT threads on drywall primers and surfacers, D-Mix, etc. All of which has left me utterly befuddled about what I ought to do with my new house.
Like…what’s the diff between primer and surfacer? I gather D-Mix is a sort of hybrid. If I just prime, which is best? USG? SW?
I’ve got a Spraytech 1420 which I’d like to put to use to speed things up a bit – 2900FSF is a lot to paint strictly by roller. That’s gonna knock D-Mix right out, I’d imagine.
What would YOU do?
Also…at what point in the process do you guys prime new drywall? Anything I should be aware of/looking out for? Pros/Cons to doing it at different stages? Missus is talking about starting ASAP – before floors of any sort, trim, etc. are in. Seems a bit soon, but…?
As ever, any and all input is greatly appreciated.
Jason
Replies
What about Kilz Premium primer/sealer.........says on the can "....drywall,....."?????
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If I recall correctly, manufacturers recommend priming just before you are ready to paint your finish coat -- I think I remember reading that the properties of the primer that promote adhesion can "wear off" if not top-coated shortly after application (could be a myth though). It also makes good sense because if you prime now, there is going to be a lot of dust you need to clean off the walls from the trim and flooring work you still need to do before you finish coat.I always go with the primer of the paint manufacturer I use for the finish coat -- in my case its usally Benjamin Moore Fresh Start, and I'm always please with the results.
Jason,
I always prime and paint a 1st coat as soon as drywall is ready for it. This gives a finish that is easier to clean later and alllows you to trim doors and windows without having to mask off when painting them later, you can cut free hand pretty darn closely such that no one will notice there's only 1 coat on that 1/16"-1/8" to the trim, or you can just paint a 2nd coat around your R.O.'s wider than the trim and then blend with your roller on the wall final coat. I've done both ways and either works well. One thing is you should be painting your trim with primer plus 1st coat before you install, then you fill nail holes and second coat just the face, or at least you don't have to cut tight to the wall.
Geoff
Jason,
Bear in mind - I am not a painter. In fact the only painting I do for any of my customers is priming of drywall and trim (before installation).
That being said, I like Benj Moore Fresh Start primer, I prefer it because it is quick drying and is very sandable - when dry the surface is "dry" feeling - no stickiness to it at all. Someone else mentioned Kilz - does not sand well and feels sticky even when completely dry (in my limited experience).
I tend to prime drywall ASAP after final sanding. Clean the walls up with a brush, vacuum with brush attachment, and finally wipe with a tack cloth. Then apply primer with brush or roller. New drywall will soak up whatever primer you choose like a sponge - remember that the purpose of primer is to cover not hide - over application is tempting since you can still see the color of the drywall through the primer.
The professional painter that I use is a big fan of BM Fresh Start and I like to keep him happy.
My work is 98% remodeling, dust is always an issue, cleaning and priming the drywall ASAP seems to help keep the dust under control better than leaving the sanded joint compound exposed. In the event that the drywall is dinged during trim installation - minor patching or touch up is very easy on top of this primer.
Jim
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I use Georgia Pacific drywall primer rolled on with an 18" roller and 1/2" nap.Prime a day or two after the walls are mudded.
mike
Jason,
Depending on your desired level of finish should govern the type of products you use. All of our work is Level 5 finish. They way we get there is first I have a great drywall guy. Second, the guys who tape and float are artists. Joints are spread out over several feet, barely any drywall showing at the end. Third we prime the wall with SW Builders Solution which is a surfacer. It goes on thick and really smooths out the already great surface. You need a pretty big spray rig to use the stuff, but in my opinion it is well worth. After priming, the tapers hit the wall with spot lights to find any defect, touch up the taping and prime the touchups
Finally we use high quality paints. Two coats on new work. I am a big fan of SW Duration home. Yes it is expensive-touches up great, low VOC and is tough as nails.
Bruce
Edited 2/28/2007 7:04 pm by Hiker