I have a couple of basement remodels to bid, both have small kitichen areas.
The costomers are suppling the cabinets. I’m wondering if anyone has worked
out a linial foot price for instalation. I am starting to question my prices the last
two bids I got the folks had gotten prices from other contractors and when they saw my numbers agreed a little too quickly.
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I install cabinets for around $50 each (includes knobs & pulls, fillers, & toekick). Crown, lightrail are extra. $25/l.f. would be about the same.
I never bid by the foot.
And if the Owner is suppling the cabinets, how do I get compensated if they'er a foot off? ..............or the carcases are racked?..........or there is not enough crown, filler, toe?
Figure what your time is worth, w/ overhead and profit, give the Owners a best estimate if all is there and there are no delays due to the Owners.
These folks are shopping for an installer (nothing wrong with that) so price it like an installer showing up on a job w/ material supplied by others..............T&M.
Cabinets installs are one that I do the same every time. An hour a box or unit. I consider the dishwasher a unit or the valance over the sink a unit. We remodel so often are dealing with the unknowns so it generally works out so I am faster than that but occasionally you have the one deal.........DanT
How did you make out on the jobs you got?
If you keep careful track of your costs, including your overhead and profit, you should know exactly how you did. This is what should determine your prices, not what your competitors are charging.
This goes both ways. Your competitors may not be a good fit with your jobs, may not be interested in doing the work, and this is reflected in their price. It doesn't have much to do with you and the job you are bidding. On the other hand, your competitors may be desparate for work, or may be very efficient at the type of job you are bidding and thus will have a low price. If you match that price you will just be working for less than you need and you will not be available for better paying work.
If you are exceptionally busy, it won't hurt to keep raising your price but never forget to track your costs.
I understand your point about different companeys specializing in different work and as a one man show I know where I want to fit in the wonderful world of construction. What I've always had a hard time with is tracking expences. Material costs are no problem, I can go through the building prosess in my head, make a list and I generaly right. Time on hte other hand is a differnt story! I'm offten working a couple of jobs simotainiously, I have responcibitles here at home,and then there the non-billable tasks connected with work. The condenced version is I rarely show up on the job at 8 and quit at 5 but my days are full. What has worked for you tracking time?
"What has worked for you tracking time?"
My first year I taught school and worked evenings and weekends. I kept track of my time for various jobs in a simple notebook. Can't be that difficult to figure out. Just write it down in whatever increments you work on a given job. DanT
Hi TVHb.1 ,
Dan T figures about the same way as I do , about an hour per unit or box .
Depending on the particulars and complexities of the job this can vary .
Your safest bet would be T & M , but base an estimate off of the hour per unit theory so the customer has an idea , not an exact price .
Much of what determines the actual time will be the building itself , walls, floor ,ceiling that are way out of site certainly will take longer to install ,while no fault of our own .
I only install cabinets I have made so I eat it if I need more site trips or additional moldings and such .After 25 or 30 years of this , shame on me if I goof .
I use either a 10 or 15% cost factor on top of the cost to build the set of cabinets for install , example on a $10,000 cabinet job I will figure in to my bid $1.000 - $1,500 depending on the particulars , but I do not give the customer a breakdown only a complete price .
As far as tracking costs goes , you need to establish an hourly overhead cost that should be applied to all jobs in addition to materials. Your shop rent or payments along with insurances vehicle costs and utilities are a few that may apply .
Many of the overhead costs exist whether you are working or not that day .
hope this helps dusty
I use a simple notebook. You can keep track of specific parts of the job which I have done in the past but no longer do. While this would (and has) help me a lot in refining my estimates, it takes time that I don't have. Since our work is pretty diverse a finely tuned estimating system is not that useful. What is important is that I know how each job matched up against its estimate. If I know this I can make a crude percentage adjustment and keep my numbers where they ought to be.
If I have a job that is similar to a past job, I will sometimes go back and compare the costs. We are currently reroofing a house that we roofed over 25 years ago at a cost of about $3000. We will charge $18000 for it now though it includes some new sections. This is a lesson about relying too much on history.
When in doubt, bid high.
How much is it worth to you to do this particular job?
When in double doubt, Time and material.
Grunge on. http://grungefm.com