FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

A shop-made tablesaw – Am I crazy?

raybrowne | Posted in Tools for Home Building on August 18, 2004 06:01am

I’ve been thinking of replacing the old Skil tablesaw I’ve been using, it’s a regular 8.25 inch bench model, not real happy with the fence and the controls are kinda dicey. I was going to buy a DeWalt or PC saw but I’ve been talking to some really good furniture builder/boatbuilder/top end finish guys who’ve made their own tablesaws with their circular saws. I thought no way I’d do it, too dangerous. Than I was reading a boatbuilding book with plans for making a tablesaw out of a circular saw(plywood top, dadoed grooves for fences, etc). The guy had enclosed pictures of some spectactular stuff he made with it, and these guys all had great looking jigs and sliding crosscut tables they’d made for their saws. One of the guys I was talking with even had a dado blade that Black & Decker made for their circular saws in the 60s, he’d been using it for 10 years with great success he told me. I love making my own toolboxes, jigs, etc…this idea is beginning to appeal to me and I’m considering using a oak veneer plywood sheet I have in the shop to make a top for my Bosch circular saw, should I not do this? Anyone here done it before and can offer any advice? It’ll see light use..mostly a few rips, couple bevelled edges. Any input appreciated.

 

-Ray

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. junkhound | Aug 18, 2004 07:56am | #1

    Consider a better and cheaper option, if your time counts anything.

    Around here (PNW) , Craftsman 10" table saws with cast iron tables go for $40 to $100 with motor (passed up a 1 HP version with cable drive even for $40 last weekend as I've already got 3 and DW is on my case after father died and left 14 tons of hardware to 'dispose' of ...) ..

    The skil saw bit is chump change comparatively. Get a 10' seup and build a 4X8 table to go with it after truing the arbor in your metal lathe (get one of those, means good tool deals afterwares every day) , then ya got something you can use. .

  2. Senna | Aug 18, 2004 08:37am | #2

    I was thinking of building a table for my circ saw. I have two good staight edge jigs( big and small) for the circ saw that I use for 50% of all cuts I need to make. The other 49% I use my chop saw or a router. For the other 1% I could use a table saw - but the room it would take up is a factor.

    If I were to build one it would be small, table top size, built from melamine and with a good solid fence. Most of the low end table saws have crappy fences that don't look solid or square. I would fix in place two rulers at both ends of the table to ensure the fence is square.

    I would like to hear about peoples plans.

    1. User avater
      Homewright | Aug 18, 2004 12:12pm | #3

      Years ago I made a 'shop' saw out of an old (back when they had a quality product)  B & D industrial grade circular saw.  I took all the blade guard hardware off the saw and inverted it beneath a table of plywood.  I used aluminum plate for the top.  It was a heavy beast with 4 x 4 legs and was about 40" x 24".  The downside was trying to get enough bevel swing to match the original saw's range and of course the fence.  If you're not wanting to buy a table saw this is a viable way to go as long as you have a place to store it. 

      By the way, aluminum works easily with most woodworking equipment like routers etc but you make a lot of mess and need to take more time for the milling process.

      My fence was a right angle glue up of plywood with another piece of aluminum plate mounted to the face with countersunk screws.  I drilled holes just beyond the edges of the table on the flat of the fence and made notched wood blocks that had a t-nut which would allow me to sandwich the table top between the fence and the block.  It was slow setting up for precise cuts but it could be done.

      If you do it, pay particular attention to aligning the blade to the table itself and cut the miter fence slot after you have the saw mounted.  I also hardwired the power cord to a switch and made a removable cord with a twist lock style male and female hook up for safety reasons.  Whenever I shut everything down, I'd take the cord off the saw and hide it to keep anyone from getting hurt.

      Just take your time and try to be as precise as possible during the process of building it and you'll have a decent saw.  But in all fairness, I wouldn't do it again after having a Dewalt portable which gave me great results and has the best fence on the market for portable table saws.  Have fun and be safe.

  3. DanH | Aug 18, 2004 01:07pm | #4

    I used to have a setup for the old B&D circ saw I had (that's now in Puerto Rico). It wasn't fancy -- had a wooden fence you had to adjust manually to be parallel, and no miter gauge -- but it had an extra-wide top and, with a veneer blade, did some real nice work on plywood. The compact POS I have now can't cut half as cleanly, but it's easier to set up and doesn't take as much room in the garage.

    (I'd love it if I had enough room for a real shop.)

  4. DavidxDoud | Aug 18, 2004 04:25pm | #5

    sears used to sell a table that a specific model of a sears 'skill' style saw fit to turn it into a table saw - - dad had one and still has the table,  tho the saw gave up quite a while ago -

    anyway,  certainly you can do it,  and with care do a good job,  but given the availibility of 'decent' table saws for modest prices,  I see no compelling reason to make one - - unless you 'want' to - which is always enough reason for me....

    "there's enough for everyone"
  5. jackplane | Aug 18, 2004 07:44pm | #6

    I considered the same thing more than 10 years ago, but bought one instead. The tablesaw you describe will be under-powered,unable to cut bevels with any consistancy or ease, and as your use of it grows, you'll recognize it's limitations, after all the time  spent building it.

    DeWalt and Bosch make decent tabletop saws, worth looking at.

    1. Junkman001 | Aug 18, 2004 07:57pm | #7

      One thing to consider is the ability on a "real " table saw to lower the blade.  This will really ad to saftey if there is no guard.  Mike

  6. mikerooney | Aug 18, 2004 08:31pm | #8

    I had one for years - just a plywood box, with a B&D Sawcat. Worked well for rippin' cabinet fillers and jamb extensions. None of the guys I worked with back then would go anywhere near the thing - I think that was a good thing. ;0}

     

  7. maverick | Aug 18, 2004 11:25pm | #9

    I started out with a skillsaw mounted upside down in a black & decker work -mate. the whole thing folded up quite nicely and I never had to worry about any one stealing it.

    Many tools later my portable contractors saw is'nt much better. I have to eyeball the fence to line it up with the ribs on the table top. I firmly believe its not the quality of the saw that matters as much as the talent of the guy running it.

    1. Snort | Aug 19, 2004 12:58am | #10

      My first jobsite (actually, any site) tablesaw was a skillsaw screwed to the under side of a sheet of 1/2" ply with a level clamped on top as a fence. Then I graduated to a Hirsch table, which was essentialy the same thing, except it had a big bar-like safety switch. No problem raising or lowering the blade, but the depth of cut was way limited.

      That arrangement is basically what most portable tablesaws are, anyway.

      A buddy of mine made a tablesaw in a machining class he had in college...cast trunions and top, amazing fence. Now there was a homemade saw<G> Don't worry, we can fix that later!

  8. davidmeiland | Aug 19, 2004 02:33am | #11

    I guess it could be done nicely if you're a fanatic... really make a project out of it. But how are you going to adjust blade height and tilt? Reach under the table and adjust the skilsaw? I can barely adjust mine precisely and it's not mounted under a table at all! It just seems too complicated to me. Five hundred bucks will get you the Dewalt 10" portable table saw, which I have and use daily (have for several years).  I'd spend the money and save your time for something else.

    1. raybrowne | Aug 19, 2004 03:05am | #12

      Thanks to all for the responses, after spending the day, while at home sick..stupid flu,  thinking about it I've decided it's a worthwhile project. Addressing some questions that were posed:

      Adjustment Difficulty: I rarely use a tablesaw now, I rip sheetgoods with edge guides and a circular saw and crosscut with the chopsaw. The tablesaw is mostly for ripping moldings and bevelling edges on something, adjustments will be on the order of once or twice a day so it won't be a big deal.

      Time: Sometimes it's nice to spend shoptime on something for yourself rather than a customer or for the house, kind of burned out on the wife's home improvement projects at the moment and the customers get plenty of time as is.

      Main thing I'm worried about now is ensuring I have completely accurate grooves for the sliding table I'll build. Noticed McFeeley's had some inserts for the grooves on router tables, maybe they'd work for the one's I'll be dadoing in.

      -Ray

      1. DougU | Aug 19, 2004 04:19am | #14

        I personally wouldn't do it but hell who cares what I would do.

        The one thing that I have read here that I would try to solve would be the problem with the tilt. I understand why those that have built the saw have had difficulty with tilting but if you mount the saw like you would a router in a router table you maybe able to eliminate the problem.

        I would think that you could use the plate of the saw as the top of the table, insert it into a plywood top, where the plate is flush with the top. That way the saw would still tilt the full 45 deg.

        Doug

        1. raybrowne | Aug 19, 2004 06:06am | #15

          That's exactly what I was thinking of doing actually,  I won't complete the project unless I can get it to tilt.  The boatbuilding book I'm reading that has plans for a tablesaw in it has it setup like that, you do a plunge cut(or cut out on another tablesaw) to make the opening for your saw.  The book is called "Boat Joinery & Cabinetmaking Simplified" by Fred Bingham. Tons of great jigs and tool plans in it, only bad thing is the whole book goes over making a beatiful wooden yacht and than the set of plans for a sailboat are for a stitched together fiberglass one, bah.

          -Ray

          1. JohnSprung | Aug 19, 2004 10:22pm | #16

            Why not buy a good table saw, and make extension, infeed, and outfeed tables for it?  That way you have both a project to do yourself, and you end up with a quality setup.  Once you have that, you'll find lots of projects to use it on.

            -- J.S.

    2. DanH | Aug 19, 2004 03:13am | #13

      Actually, when I had mine I found I could do depth adjustments without much difficulty. Tilt was a bit more of a problem -- could only do maybe 20 degrees.

      FWIW, I wired a 2x4 handibox on mine with a cord and switch/outlet, and plugged the saw into that. Held the trigger "on" with a screw-type hose clamp. The switch wasn't motor rated but was a real "click" switch and so was good for the duty. (Unfortunately, it's hard to find such switches anymore.)

  9. User avater
    Dreamcatcher | Aug 22, 2004 03:36am | #17

    ARE YOU TOTALLY INSANE?

    why would you waste your time to make a table saw?!?!?!

    what's next......make your own router table? absurd I tell you!!

    sorry, just a little pent up frustration.

    It is nearly unbelievable to me that the people in this forum are trying to discourage you from building your own tool. I once proposed the opposite (would you buy a router table from a manufacturer?) and was also shot down by this forum. So I am lead to believe that FHB readers only approve of store bought tablesaws and shop made router tables....the opposite is considered a waste of time or money.

    Personally Ray, I believe that to each his own and I give the most respect to anyone who can build a respectable tool; could be Ray Browne or could be Porter Cable really doesn't matter.

    I say build yourself a table saw. Make it functional, and accurate, and great looking. Put enough time into it to make it a machine that you want to use and may even make your friends drool and want to make a table saw of their own.

    Maybe I'm just nostalgic

    or

    maybe I'm insane too.

    gk

    1. User avater
      Homewright | Aug 22, 2004 03:22pm | #19

      Love your attitude;=)  I'm just starting over getting a tool collection together and have been buying with the idea of maximum potential with each tool as the basis of my choices thus far.  Bosch saber saw & 18 v drill, Porter Cable router kit (got the promotional guide in the mail) with plunge base and a dozen bits to date, Skilsaw wormdrive and a new addition yesterday, a little PC random orbital sander.  I finished out a chisel collection and have a few other hand tools in this early stage.  But so far I've built a portable bench I wheel under a shade tree within drop cord range of the house and literally become a shade tree carpenter.  I made a new mail box post out of 6 x 6 cedar that nobody seems to want to run into anymore and am building gingerbread details (for mom) for an upcoming deck project.  I'm deck building here in Georgia this summer and the boss has lots of scrap I'm bringing home.  I'll forego the process of building a tablesaw now but the router is another matter.  I'll be getting into a scms soon and a table saw soon after depending on how the deals present themselves.  With those additions, it'll be time to get into air tools and fill in the gaps with belt sander, biscuit joiner, planer, you get the idea...  Anyway, the gist of it is with a few of the right resources and the initiative, much can be done with relatively little.  A positive attitude is one of the best resources one can have.  Maintaining it is as important as maintaining the progress on a house.  Once again, love your attitude! 

  10. User avater
    JeffBuck | Aug 22, 2004 12:14pm | #18

    I'm thinking a coupla nice shoot boards would be a better invention ...

    Jeff

    Buck Construction, llc   Pittsburgh,PA

         Artistry in Carpentry                

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

A New Approach to Foundations

Discover a concrete-free foundation option that doesn't require any digging.

Featured Video

Micro-Adjust Deck-Baluster Spacing for an Eye-Deceiving Layout

No math, no measuring—just a simple jig made from an elastic band is all you need to lay out a good-looking deck railing.

Related Stories

  • Old House Air-Sealing Basics
  • A Drip-Free, Through-Window Heat Pump
  • Insulation for Homes in the Wildland Urban Interface
  • An Impressive Air-to-Water Heat Pump

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Old House Journal – August 2025
    • Designing the Perfect Garden Gate
    • Old House Air-Sealing Basics
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data