Did a lot of work this weekend stripping paint, see attached photo, sure glad it’s a small house. The board to batten junction has been caulked in the past, I’m removing that. Also caulk around windows and doors. Once it’s all stripped, sanded, I’ll prime and caulk and putty before painting.
What do you guys think is the best caulk and putty? Thinking of investing in power caulk gun, any recommendations for that would be appreciated.
Kevin
Simple air-sealing measures and spray-applied sealant lower energy bills and increase comfort without the need to tear the house apart.
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Anything with polyurethane. Second choice would be an acrylic polymer like something made by Tremco. Also I've used Titebond Weathermaster and have had good results.
"Anything with polyurethane."Do you have a favorite brand?
Sonneborn, PL Brand, theres a few others most big boxes carry some type of polyurethane caulk. Beware though, polyurethane is a mess to clean up. You'll need xylol or some other industrial solvent. If you use it get your technique down first. tooling with your finger is okay but if you spread too big of a bead it'll make a big mess.
Are the boards solid wood or plywood?
If solid wood, the original installation, if it was done properly, would have had the wide boards nailed along one edge only, the other edge being held in place by the batten. The board was thus free to move with seasonal moisture changes.
Subsequent homeowners often go back and add nails to the boards which defeats the logic of the original design. Caulking can do the same, as well as reducing the wall assembly's drying potential to the outside. No caulking I'm aware of can accommodate the kind of movement the boards will need if the they are solid wood.
The boards are solid wood. I have learned about the proper way to nail B&B here, and what I'm seeing with paint stripping is confusing.Shiplap boards nailed middle and sides and batten nails as well, so 4 nails in a row, all visible. A lot of the battens, and some of the boards are loose. I assume the nails have rusted after 120 years in island environment. I planned on re nailing with SS, but leaving old nails in place. You see any problem with that?Incidentally, the boards are nailed to the framing, no sheathing under them. B&B exterior, true 2x4s ballon framed and several feet between them, interior beadboard. Siding is structural.
Edited 5/26/2009 12:41 pm ET by dockelly
The nailing pattern you see would suggest to me that you are probably seeing quite a bit of splitting. Your picture gives me the idea that the boards are about 10" wide?
If so, that's a lot of width for an exterior board to create movement.
If there's not much splitting, then, for some reason I'm at a loss to explain, the 4-nail pattern has not been a problem. The battens are not serving the usual purpose of allowing a free-floating board. Beats me.
There might be a row of board nails under the battens, too.
As for leaving the old nails in place, I'm not experienced with the kind of climate you're dealing with, so I'd best let somebody else help you there.
very, very little splitting, only one that I've found so far and only a few feet in length.
Maybe the marine climate is humid almost all the time, so wood movement (shrinkage) is minimized.
I wonder if the expense and effort of caulking hundreds of feet of B&B joints is really necessary--after all, during most the 120-year lifespan of this siding, there would have been none.
I'm just asking, because you must have a pretty good reason for feeling the need to do it.
I have switched to "Lexel" sealant. Good stuff.
http://www.sashcosealants.com/Home_Improvement/Lexel.aspx
Chuck S.
I agree with the Lexel, great caulking!
checked the site and saw this:Where not to use Lexel
Lexel should not be used in areas of continuous submersion (i.e., aquariums or swimming pools). Do not use Lexel in areas where temperatures exceed 200ºF. Lexel may damage some plastics, such as polystyrene foam insulation. Plastics not listed should be tested for Lexel compatibility before general application.If I do spray foam down the road in the wall cavities, this may lead to a problem.
There's no "best".
I caulked our house with Dap's premium siliconized latex about 18 years ago and all the caulk was still in perfect conditions about 5 years back when I repainted. But I was obsessive about prep/priming and about maintaining the right 3/16" gap. Plus the Masonite tempered hardboard siding is exceptionally stable dimensionally and offers good adhesion.
For less stable materials you need a more flexible caulk.
Lot's of work there. Appears to be a new cedar skirt board. I would have gone with Azek and z flashing. Here Azek and cedar 5/4 prices are the same. Just a thought.......
board is 2x12 doug fir. considered azek but heard it doesn't take paint well, plus it would look out of place with the old house. board and siding have a 15 degree bevel on them, joint will be caulked after primer.
My home is also B&B, true 1Xl2's with 3" battens. Main structure is 100yrs.+. Nothing sacred to save and since I have wonderful views I opened up and added large windows. House is stained a dark grey with white trim, so I use unpainted azek wherever I can. Always used SS fasteners.
Since you are doing such a good job on your prep you might consider Cabots white stain #1812 rather than paint. I've had great coverage results for white and it won't peel later. One other thing I do in exterior work is caulk the end grain not prime, seems to hold up better, latex clear.
My home is also B&B, true 1Xl2's with 3" battens. Main structure is 100yrs.+. Nothing sacred to save and since I have wonderful views I opened up and added large windows. House is stained a dark grey with white trim, so I use unpainted azek wherever I can. Always used SS fasteners.
Since you are doing such a good job on your prep you might consider Cabots white stain #1812 rather than paint. I've had great coverage results for white and it won't peel later. One other thing I do in exterior work is caulk the end grain not prime, seems to hold up better, latex clear.
Find a way to get Tremco's Dymonic product. Spec data sheet attached.
It's not the kind of thing you will find at a home center or lumberyard, since it is marketed to the commercial trades. You will need to find a commercial jobber.
But you'll be glad you used it. You asked for the best, and this may be it.
It is a polyurethane, and will outperform any of the silicones or latexes, for the purpose you need.
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"A stripe is just as real as a dadgummed flower."
Gene Davis 1920-1985
found a few places near me, I call in the morning, thanks!Kevin
Know this b/4 you use Urethane caulk (and Dymonic is GOOD). Urethane has a tendency to be hard to tool, so no tooling if you can do it good is the way to go.
Also, it will stain your fingers/hands/whatever dark-like a mechanics hands only it don't come off. At least not in the near future. A good week of washing might lighten the color.
Wear gloves-surgical if yo plan on tooling..............and to be honest, I don't because there's no feel there. If you get it off quick, you might look good at dinner.
If you slop it on your ladder/caulkgun/anywhere and then "touch" those things you'll wish you had gloves on.
Other than that-great caulk-especially for dissimilar materials and old houses-it's tenacious in stick and long lasting. Moves more than most other caulks and still bonds to both surfaces. Paintable. Use backer rod for larger gaps.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Gene,This goes back to your plug for Dymonic. One of my local lumberyards is clearing out their Dymonic FC tubes for $4.50 a tube. I've got a couple projects coming up where I'll be needing some major exterior caulking (Mediterranean stucco house with no flashing above ANY doors/window trim, etc.)
I haven't used it before, but I'm thinking if it's that good maybe I should pick up a bunch of tubes.
I don't know as I'd need it for every exterior application, but it sounds good for those critical junctures that always seem to crack other caulks.Whaddya think?Paul
Pick it up at the deal price.
Pay heed to the spec-data sheet, and use backer rod where required.
As for application, gunning a good bead is an art, and practice makes perfect. Like cutting a line with a paintbrush, I find it best to exhale slowly while applying, one long slow breath.
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"A stripe is just as real as a dadgummed flower."
Gene Davis 1920-1985
Good tip Gene. That product looks like the "liquid trim" that I've been looking for.
Hey Kevin -
Can't help with the caulk question, but I wonder the same thing the last poster did: Does it really need caulk?
Also, are those your ladders? If they are, that's one less thing I'll have to haul.
http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
You might wanna haul a pic, I don't think that 5/4 PT deckplank will hold you and a cup a coffee.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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I wondered why anyone would buy an aluminum plank, stepped on the lumber and it was like a diving board. Screwed a 2x6 at 90 degrees to it, a "T" profile and it reduced bounce considerably.
I know alot of guys with trade stuff, sure I can get a loan of things if it makes Grant's life easier. Have you considered coming with him? It'll be a blast!
Edited 5/26/2009 9:16 pm ET by dockelly
I'd love to come along, I know "the shore" pretty well.
He's bringing the DW, no?Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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Actually I don't know, but she is welcome.
NOhttp://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
Hell, I'll tag along. I always wanted to do a copper roof. LOLSpheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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Hey Duane,Forgot Shep was coming, we got it covered. Maybe we can all get together when I visit my sister in Kentucky.ThanksKevin
I have to see where I am with work and all. I might end up coming down for just the day.
hmmm. I wonder how Grant would feel if we left him working, and went out to play some golf. There's some nice courses down that way <G>
What ever, I'll be around. (G)Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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View Image View ImageIntimidation is the sincerest form of battery
Does it really need caulk?
Well, I figured around the windows and doors, but during the stripping found there was caulk between board and batten. So I figured it was needed, help keep moisture out?
One ladder is mine and one is a neighbors. Maybe you should send me a list of what you need, I may have other things you won't have to haul. Obviously I don't have specialty tools for copper roofing ...
I'll bring everything but ladders if one is yours. That's all we'll need.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
When are you going to be at Kevin's?
I'm not much good with heights anymore, but I do know how to buy beer.
And I've got a couple of ladders if they're needed.
Not sure - late June or Mid July- We'll keep you posted as things develop.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
You can count me up for it if ya want.
Good call on today, Paris is getting whacked. And I know how Scout felt. Freakin Dog Flu.
You want the job pics?Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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Thank you, kind sir.
Hey Grant,See attached pics. The flashing is just nailed and caulked to the siding. Is this sufficient or is there a fix I need to do before you get here. The pic with scalloped shingles has the flashing behind them. Also, if you look at the roof pic, there is a slight rise in the middle of the roof, not sure if it is a problem, with metal going on.ThanksKevin
Saw you read the post, did the pics explain my questions OK? I'll be there over the weekend if you need more detail pictures.ThanksKevin
Is this sufficient or is there a fix I need to do before you get here.
No & no. We'll deal with it as we install the roof.
, there is a slight rise in the middle of the roof, not sure if it is a problem,
It's not.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
OK, thanks.
Geocel 2300, caulk before priming. Paint will adhere for 5-15 years, Geocel will last for 25+.
(I'll probably get bludgeoned for this) but I wouldn't get too uptight about "world's best caulk and paint" (I'd go latex with silicone BTW). My theory with painting is that no matter what you do (and you've done a lot of prep there), but regardless of it all.......in 8 years it'll need repainting. Especially cedar, redwood, etc.
Just another perspective with respect to all your work.
I fully expect it will need repainting, If I get 5 years in that enviroment, I'll be happy. I hope the next few times the prep will be less, no stripping all the paint next time.
Thanks for your input.
side trip here.
Just had a first time use of some Loctite brand advesive called PowerGrab.
man, that's some good stuff.
used like caulk or to stop a nut from coming loose?
Just be cautious with Silly cones they will often leave oils behind that prevent future adhesion of darn near anything. mmmm Powergrab- love it
I agree with Rez that Loctite Powergrab is some great stuff, but I don't use it as a caulk nor as a "nut locker". Basically, it's a very thick adhesive similar to caulk, but with much better grip. It's great for securing trim to drywall. And it's water-based which makes clean-up easier.
It comes in an interior and exterior version, but I think it there's any chance of it getting wet, I would still use a polyurethane glue such as PL Premium.
They also make an external version of Power Grab.PG is great for trim and the like. Stiff enough to hold most stuff in immediately with out using any clamps, nails or the like. But still positional for 10 minutes or so. .
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
On a porch reno I'd put this plastic beadboard product over an old painted fiberboard wall niche area.
It said on the tube that you have 15minutes to realign your work but the stuff grabbed nice right out of the tube.
I'd been prepared to brace the thing tight till dry as with a thin plastic shower wall but didn't need it.