Replies

1. 
   jimmiem | Mar 24, 2016 01:21pm | #1

   Acclimating Hardwood Flooring

   Wood flooring should be acclimated to the annual average Moisture Content of the location where it will be installed.  A moisture meter is used to determine moisture content.  The amount of time that you let it acclimate is not the determining factor.  What is location where the flooring will be installed, i.e. city and state?

1. 
   deadnuts | Mar 25, 2016 08:37am | #2

   acclimation caveats

   JIMMIEM wrote:

   Wood flooring should be acclimated to the annual average Moisture Content of the location where it will be installed. 

   While I appreciate and understand what you are saying here, Jimmiem, it is somewhat misleading. Its also easier said then done. Locations do not have moisture content; materials do. So you'd technically have to take moisture content readings throughout the year (and of the same species of wood--which you might not have existing) you intend to use in a specific location in order to determine the average. Also, since average moisture content of material is largely based on relative humidity (a measure of water vapor in the air with respect to temperature) this can change from year to year depending on the amount of annual rainfall and consistency of mechanical conditioning of the space.

   So, in other words, sometimes a simple rule of thumb applies better than a scientific meter reading. That rule of thumb for the wood flooring installation industry is generally 2 weeks of acclimation in a finished space with average R.H. readings. This rule of thumb applies to wood that is handled and delivered by professional wood flooring suppliers. If the wood is being stored and delivered otherwise, you may want to allow an entire month to properly acclimate.

1. 
   icerunner | Mar 28, 2016 12:32pm | #6

   Perfect - 2 weeks. Thanks

2. 
   calvin | Mar 27, 2016 08:30pm | #3

   Ice

   I'd be careful using rule of thumb on wood stored in what appears a dry basement.  Especially if it was stored on the slab and then covered.  Even up off the slab and stickered, covering would hold any moisture under it.

   another rule of thumb you might think of is getting the moisture content between your oak and the subfloor you are going over.

   and, it's not uncommon at all for shrinkage to occur seasonally at areas above uninsulated duct runs.

   best of luck

1. 
   icerunner | Mar 28, 2016 12:31pm | #5

   another rule of thumb you might think of is getting the moisture content between your oak and the subfloor you are going over.

   do you mean "compare" the readings and get them the same?

   I'm going to put new 3/4" T&G plywood subfloor down as when I did the LR after a couple years it started squeeking when walking on it. In that case, I guessing the 1921 subfloor was just too dry to hold the nails securely - there were 'gaps' between the sub floor planking that a professional would have probably realized would lead to squeeking.

1. 
   Geoffrey | Mar 28, 2016 02:21pm | #8

   new 3/4" subfloor

   ice,

   If you're planning on going over the existing sub-floor w/ the new 3/4" ply, do not-  it will cause more headaches

   than you need or want. Instead simply re-secure the existing subfloor using screws instead of nails, and pull any nails that may

   be loose or pop up when you screw down the subflooring, and don't use drywall screws!

   If the floor is over an unheated/conditioned space or crawl space, use 15# felt over the subfloor. If you are over

   conditioned living space i.e. 2nd or 3rd floor or conditioned basement, use building paper over the subfloor, this will help stop

   squeaks. Also be sure you install the flooring with flooring nails and NOT staples, that will go a long way towards preventing

   squeaks and stabilizing the flooring installation.

   Good Luck!

   Geoff

3. 
   icerunner | Mar 28, 2016 12:24pm | #4

   Thanks. I do have a moisture meter and we're in the Seattle Area. All the flooring has been keep in cardboard "apple" boxes - not covered. It is dry though unheated.

1. 
   jimmiem | Mar 28, 2016 01:22pm | #7

   Icerunner

   Installation conditions:

   Ideally, the moisture content of your hardwood should be at 11%.  This is the average of the annual moisture content range for Seattle.  Also, if your flooring is strip flooring then its moisture content should be within 4% of the moisture content of the plywood subfloor.  If your flooring is plank flooring then its moisture content should be within 2% of the moisture content of the plywood subfloor.

4. 
   icerunner | Mar 31, 2016 11:34am | #9

   Thanks! I did what you suggest with the LR and it squeaks. I used 2 or 2 1/2 deck screws - two in each subfloor / joist junction and what HD sells for hardwood flooring (supposedly a little better than felt??). After 2 years the floor squeaks. My guess it that it is the 'old" 1921 subfloor that is just too darn dry that won't hold the nails.

   So, with the kitchen I plan on pulling the old planking and put new sub down with construction glue.

   There has been a debate among a couple cons triton friends as to whether to use plywood or OSB. I’m planning on using T & G plywood.

1. 
   DanH | Mar 31, 2016 03:51pm | #10

   Keep in mind that little you do re building paper and the nailing scheme of the actual flooring will prevent squeaks due to framing movement.

1. 
   HardwoodFloorGuy | Apr 01, 2016 10:46am | #11

   "How long should I allow it

   "How long should I allow it to sit out in the room where it will be installled."

   Along with being in harmony with the basement.

   A better understanding, or one that brings out the beast in what causes problems with most solid hardwood flooring.

   The page is aimed at engineered, but the video explains why solid hardwood flooring has issues. But then reclaimed is rustic looking anyway; probably won't notice the issues as one would with traditional solids.

   http://www.uptownfloors.com/products/34-inch-engineered.htm

5. 
   icerunner | Apr 01, 2016 11:06am | #12

   Thanks. Yeah, it's not the framing as I can feel and hear the flooring move thus making the squeeks.

1. 
   Geoffrey | Apr 02, 2016 01:45am | #13

   So if it's the flooring making the squeaks, what type fasteners did you use to secure the flooring?

1. 
   DanH | Apr 02, 2016 08:25am | #14

   So if it's the flooring making the squeaks, what type fasteners did you use to secure the flooring?

   And did you make sure to remove the mice before you laid it?

   (Not kidding:  In the old farmhouse my parents bought they found a dead mouse about halfway down in the seven layers of linoleum in the kitchen.)