Adding a roof overhang to the side of a brick house.
ISSUE:
There are no eves in the existing roof line. This results in there being no rain protection for the windows and several of the exterior doors, as well as contributing to a moisture issue where the deck meets the house wall.
SOLUTION:
I intend to add a roof above the first floor windows on three sides of the house. I plan for the means of support to be two 2×6 ledger boards secured directly to the solid brick exterior wall of the house using 3/8x5_1/2″ lags and shields at a connection schedule of approximately 16″ to 24″ OC. One ledger board is to be placed for the 2×4 roof rafters to be attached to, the other is to be placed lower for the 2×4 soffit framing to connect to. Simpson strong ties will be used for the framing connections. I am thinking that the soffit depth will be 2′ with the roof rising 2′ up the wall or a bit more.
CONCERN:
I’m used to framing connections being made to wood, not to brick, so I don’t have a sense of how well lags and shields will hold in brick, or if there are issues with brick fracturing when an expansion type of anshor is used.
QUESTION:
Anyone have any personal experience with this type of framing issue?
Thank you for your input.
Replies
you were saying?.............................
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Now that you filled in the post I can add something.
You say solid brick wall-is this brick veneer over a wood framed house?
How do you intend to flash this roof to the brick?
And the decor of the house couldn't take brackets extending down below this soffited roof?
thanks.
Roof attached to brick wall
This is solid brick wall, NOT a veneer.
I now that you didn't ask, but post wouldn't work for several reasons. The grade changes from first floor entry on the front of the house to a basement entry in the rear, and brackets would be intrussive in a number of places. Also, I'm looking to carry this roof around on three side of the house walls.
Jake
Thanks for the clarification.
The brackets would be a traditional structural member that transfers the load back to the wall-lowering the force of pullout from your upper ledger. Since you can't go that route, you'll have to make sure the fasteners and what they anchor to are sound.........which is why you asked the question in the first place.
I've done what you've proposed several times in many different circumstances. Remember I'm just a dumb carpenter, not an engineer. In most cases involving fastening to masonry (mainly block or poured concrete) we used drop in anchors. RedHead is one manufacturer of drop in expansion anchors-I remember another kind called wedge-it which had a blade that came out as the bolt was drawn tight. Hilti makes a whole slew of expansion anchors. In all these cases, the pullout and shear ratings were the deciding factors in what to use and their placement. While lead sheilds are similar, I believe the above to be superior and better suited to your needs. Size of anchor might be dictated by where you intend to drill it. If the brick is soft you might be going after the morter joint. An anchor that measures in diam. the morter joint width is what I'd use.
A couple of the awning roofs we assembled were done with triangular trusses. The bottom of the truss was pre-notched and sat on the lower ledger, the tops were pre-notched around the upper 2x4 ledger. I can't remember how the upper connection was made-but I'm thinking we did more that nail it off to the ledger-could have been lagged. With the bottom of the truss flushed up to that bottom ledger, all we had to do is add sub-fascia to catch our soffit material. The ledger anchor schedule was more for the top-could have been every foot. The lower, more like 2'.
That was at least 20/25 yrs ago. Now we'd build those roofs with steel, both for ease, fire concerns and cost.
Your roof flashing is something you need to detail properly so you have no problems later on.
Best of luck.