I need to add a second wall switch at a spot where there is already a single-gang box and switch. What is the best/easiest way to do this? Do I remove the single-gang box (if so, how) or is there a way to easily attach a second, single-gang box side-to-side to the existing box? I’m concerned that a standard double switch wall plate won’t cover 2 side-by side boxes. Thanks for the help.
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Replies
I have this situation at my house: I'm planning to replace a duplex switch (if that's the proper term) with two single switches.
My plan, which of course I haven't gotten around to yet, is to use a jigsaw to cut the nails holding the box to the stud, take the box out, and replace it with a double "old work" plastic box.
I wish I could tell you how it worked, but that's one of those "when I get around to it" projects, which probally means it'll happen about a week from never, or as soon as one of the light switches dies, whichever comes later.
Gary - you're right, a double plate won't cover two boxes. So -
I would assume your existing box is nailed to the stud. Reach in with just a hacksaw blade between the box and the stud, and cut the nails flush with the stud (don't hit the wires!) Then trim out the drywall opening to fit a new double "old work" blue plastic box - the kind with the swing-out ears. Feed the wire(s) through, and Bob's your uncle.
Alternatively, leave the existing box, move TWO spaces over, and put in a single old work box through the drywall, then purchase or assemble a TRIPLE wall plate with a blank center position, and glue dummy screws in the middle pair of holes. A triple blank plate won't work; the screw holes are in the "box" rather than "device" position.
Forrest
Got it. Thanks. I do have a sawzall. What blade would be used to cut the nails? Or is that too much horsepower for a simple problem?
Use a metal cutting blade. The one with the small teeth that looks like a hacksaw blade. You might need to tap a screwdriver between the box and the stud to make a little room to get the sawzall blade in there.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Plaster walls or DW? If plaster, Sawzall vibration will produce lots of cracks where you don't want them, and a nice, calm hand-held hacksaw blade would be better.
Is the wall open or closed?
If the wall is open (or will be opened), and you're living right, you may have a extendable metal box. This has a screw that lets you remove one side and attach a similar box (with it's side removed) to create a double-gang box.
Otherwise it's best to remove/replace the existing box, or place a new one about two inches away so they can use separate plates.
The separate box is easiest when you don't want to open the wall: Just get an "old work" box that includes clamps to hold it in the wall, cut the appropriate hole (being sure to leave space between boxes for the flanges of the cover plates), trial-fit the box and remove it, fish wires into the wall and pull them through the hole, insert wires in box, push box into wall and tighten clamps.
To replace the existing box (working through wallboard), you need to widen the hole to roughly the size of the double-gang box, then use a prybar and/or Sawzall to free the box from the stud. Remove wires from old box, insert wires in new box, install new box.
The trick here is installing the new box. Often the available "old work" boxes have projections on the sides that prevent them from being easily installed next to studs, so you may need to fasten a regular box to the stud somehow. The most effective way to do this is screws through the side of the box, but there is some question as to whether this is "code".
Why would it not be to code?Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
I think there's something somewhere saying that fasteners are only allowed in the back 1/2" or so of the box. It's not clear, though, whether this means screws simply through one side, or, eg, nails used to install the box that go all the way through the box from one side to the other (as is done for some styles of steel boxes).
If Tyranny and Oppression come to this land, it will be in the guise of fighting a foreign enemy. --James Madison
There is also out a relatively new approved box with bosses on the side for angle screwing through the box.Forgot the name.Also most of the plastic old work boxes have flippers on the top and bottom tht will work.And a steel box can be installed with Madison clips.
If I understand this correctly, there's one switch now, and you want two. In that case, the easiest thing is to leave the box and drywall alone, and simply put in a single gang duplex switch. If you can fish the romex, you might get away with no patch and paint work at all.
-- J.S.
Great suggestion. I hadn't thought of that option. Unfortunately the wife just vetoed it for aesthetic reasons. Dang. Well, if the power goes out in the Midwest today, that was me.
All those replies beg the question of what, exactly, is the second switch going to do, and how are you fishing wires to it!!!
Second switch is for a bedroom ceiling light fixture (~100 watts) probably will end up on a dimmer (TBA). Already placed box in ceiling and fished wires down through the top plate into the appropriate stud bay. Existing switch has hot, neutral, and ground going into its box, so I'm just going to pigtail into those upstream of the existing switch. Thanks to everyone for the advice.
Great suggestion. I hadn't thought of that option. Unfortunately the wife just vetoed it for aesthetic reasons. Dang. Well, if the power goes out in the Midwest today, that was me.Make the wife do it.....what's wrong with a duplex switch.....oh, nevermind...I'm remembering the lady client who burst into tears when we couldn't find a four way slide dimmer and had to substitute a rotary one.....
The dimmer eliminates the duplex option, you'll have to cut the wall and use a 2-gang box. Go ahead and put it in to start with. In addition to the obvious romantic lighting, it's also nice to be able to have enough light to see with and yet let the other person sleep.
My favorite trick for cutting box holes is a diamond blade hand grout saw. It works for both plaster and drywall. With some care, you might get away with no patch and paint to do.
-- J.S.