Replies

1. 
   TRice | Feb 28, 2005 05:38pm | #1

   Although this is typically used in commercial applications, I believe there are some residential versions available, you could use a electric steam humidifer. The unit would have to be mounted in a closet or the like, in the conditioned space. A supply and return tube would run up to a dispersion nozzle in the supply trunk.

   Else, you would have to freeze protect everthing.

2. 
   DanH | Feb 28, 2005 07:19pm | #2

   In addition to needing to be out of freezing weather, a humidifier needs to be accessible for service. You could, in theory, shut down and "blow out" the humidifier in winter, but winter is when you need it.

   If there is a major piece of ductwork (eg, a main return) somewhere in the "conditioned" space that is also accessible (eg, in a closet) and close to water and drain, then a humidifier can be mounted there. (You'll need a unit with a self-contained fan, vs one of the "bypass" units.) In general, even if you can mount on a hot air duct, a heat-pump-attached humidifier should be fed hot water.

   If not that, then you'll need some sort of stand-alone humidifier setup. Ideally it needs to be tied into the heating ductwork, though, in order to distribute the humidity evenly.

3. 
   EdJW | Feb 28, 2005 07:49pm | #3

   Quick, look at the Aprilaire 350 or 360.  I have the 360 which is a through the wall unit needing no duct work.  The 350 is a stand alone unit that is connected to a trunk line.  Each unit needs a water line and drain.  They are supposed to humidify around 3500 sq. ft but I believe the house has to be pretty tight for that.  Here's where I got mine: http://shop.store.yahoo.com/humidifier/aphummod360.html

   -Ed

1. 
   Quickstep | Mar 02, 2005 11:25pm | #4

   EDJW,

    

   Excellent!!! What do you think of this?

    

   I have ceiling mounted returns in every room. I also have a big, ceiling mounted  return in the hallway. The wall adjacent to that hallway return also contains plumbing. What do you think of mounting that humidifier nearby so that the humidity it creates gets sucked into the return and re-distributed?

    

1. 
   DanH | Mar 03, 2005 12:36am | #5

   The ideal thing would be to arrange a duct feeding directly from humidifier to return, and then somehow interlock the humidifier with the furnace fan (preferably turning on the fan when the humidifier is running).

2. 
   EdJW | Mar 03, 2005 01:38am | #6

   Quick, I agree with what Dan says if you decide to go with the unit that has to be connected to the duct work.  I have the exact same set up as you, registers in the ceiling in every room with large the air handler grill in the hall.  I found with the 360 model that I don't need to turn on my air handler.  I was told that the humidified air will travel to where the dry air is.   I have mine installed in a wall that divides the laundry room and the hall, so I have access to water hook up and a drain.  Also it says to connect to hot water feed but I found that it didn't make hardly any difference with cold water.   How may square feet do you have?  Unless your house is really tight there is no way that the unit will humidify what the specs state.  The price was really good from the link that I posted, small mom and pop place in Wisconsin, local supply house wanted twice as much.  You'll also need to run a 2 conductor cable for the humidistat away from the unit.  -Ed

1. 
   Quickstep | Mar 03, 2005 06:25am | #8

   The entire house is about 3000 sq ft, but the first floor is humidified by the 1st floor furnace. So, the upstairs only has to humidify half that space, about 1500 sqft.

1. 
   EdJW | Mar 03, 2005 04:25pm | #9

   I think the Aprilaire 360 would do the trick without using your air handler.  I'm doing about 2,000 sq.ft and it just keeps up.   House was built in 1956 and not much insulation.  Another thing you could use is a large portable unit but it is a pain to have to keep filling it.  -Ed

4. 
   RichBeckman | Mar 03, 2005 04:35am | #7

   Long ago a frequent poster in this forum would've posted to this thread to say "A dry house is a leaky house".

   There may well be exceptions (many claimed there were/are), but the logic is compelling...

   There are many sources of moisture inside a house. If the house is dry it can only be because so much dry air is coming in and the moist air is going out the roof.

   I have no idea if this applies to your situation. Just thought I would throw it out here.

   Rich Beckman

   Another day, another tool.

5. 
   reinvent | Mar 04, 2005 02:14am | #10

   May I suggest that you consider insulating your attic space. Your HVAC wont have to work as hard and you will save some $.