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Adding insulation

cprengineer | Posted in Energy, Heating & Insulation on April 27, 2011 11:46am

I have a house that was built in 1933 (I believe), and does not seem to be well-insulated, if at all.  I’m planning to eventually gut the interior walls, room by room, but more than likely I’ll be residing the house before that happens.  Would it make sense to add a layer of styrofoam sheeting to the exterior, say 1 1/2 to 2 inches?  What other issues would I be facing by doing this?

Thanks in advance!

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  1. calvin | Apr 28, 2011 06:43am | #1

    Area of the country would help with the advice.

    Thick foam could cause problems with siding install, window install (if changed) and various trims.  I used 1" foam sheeting but furred out the siding providing a rain screen in the process.

    1. cprengineer | May 04, 2011 06:56pm | #6

      Adding Insulation

      Our house is in central Wisconsin.

      The current windows are replacement inserts in original frames, so I don't think I'll be replacing them any time soon.  I'm thinking of simply building out the 1x4 exterior trim to compensate for the foam, and then wrapping all of the exterior wood with aluminum.

      The house has a 12" overhang all around, so I don't think the additional thickness would be a problem with either drainage or aesthetics.

  2. DanH | Apr 28, 2011 07:08am | #2

    Well, there are several issues here.  If you add insulation on the outside like you create problems around windows and doors where you have to rework the trim.  This may be a simple problem or may be ugly.  You also can run into situations where you begin to have trouble with roof overhang, if the roof has no eave extensions. 

    The foam makes it more difficult to apply the siding.  When you get beyond 1" or 1.5" you need to use furring strips for siding nailers, adding even more to the wall thickness you need to compensate for.

    Finally, in cold climates the foam tends to act as a vapor barrier and can capture moisture and cause rot.  How serious of a problem this is depends on your climate and the composition of the wall (and is actually less likely to be a problem if the wall is poorly insulated otherwise).

  3. davidmeiland | Apr 28, 2011 05:26pm | #3

    Lots of info

    on exterior foam over at GBA.

    Start here: http://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blogs/dept/musings/calculating-minimum-thickness-rigid-foam-sheathing

  4. MartinHolladay_GBA | Apr 29, 2011 04:58pm | #4

    Trapping moisture

    "Finally, in cold climates the foam tends to act as a vapor barrier and can capture moisture and cause rot. "

    There is absolutely no evidence of this; the opposite is true, as long as the foam is thick enough. See the link in David Meiland's post.

    1. DanH | Apr 29, 2011 10:49pm | #5

      As long as the foam is thick enough.  There's an equation to balance.

      1. MartinHolladay_GBA | May 05, 2011 01:42pm | #7

        An equation?

        I'm not sure what you mean by "an equation" -- all a builder needs to do is consult a table listing the minimum R-value of the exterior foam for various climate zones.

        1. DanH | May 05, 2011 07:25pm | #8

          It's much more complicated than that.  You have a temperature profile and a dewpoint profile, and you don't want the two lines to cross anywhere in the wall.  There are simplifying assumptions you can make with some styles of construction, but there's no simple table that will give you valid results for all conditions.

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