Replies

1. 
   DanH | Aug 26, 2009 04:48am | #1

   Depends on how elegant you want to be. You could just cut a filler strip and attach it with repair irons or a piece of sheet aluminum (maybe one on each side). Neater would be to rip the top/bottom edge straight and square and dowel a dutchman into place. Some long screws (Timberlocks?) through the edge of the dutchman would greatly increase the integrity of the joint.

   Of course, if you want to carry the side stiles all the way up/down, it would get more involved. Probably have to disassemble the door and finger-joint extensions into place.

   As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz
1. 
   dockelly | Aug 26, 2009 05:02am | #5

   Thanks Dan

2. 
   DanH | Aug 26, 2009 04:50am | #2

   And it occurs to me that some Norm Abram types might cut a groove in the top/bottom edge and then machine a matching tongue onto the dutchman.

   As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz
3. 
   Shep | Aug 26, 2009 04:54am | #3

   What is it? 6 OR 8 inches short? You'd better get a tape that doesn't stretch so much <G>

   Ideally, you'd want to extend the stiles and the rail (s). But if the doors are going to get painted, you can just add width to the bottom and/or top rails. The top rail is usually the same width as the side stiles. The bottom is wider.

   Use a glue like TiteBond III, since (I assume) they'll be used outside.

   Lots of times the trick is matching the thickness of the new wood to the old . I've got a planer if you need help with that.

1. 
   dockelly | Aug 26, 2009 05:01am | #4

   Thanks Shep, I will probably bring the doors down to the house Thursday, I'll get an accurate measurement than.

4. 
   DonCanDo | Aug 26, 2009 05:26am | #6

   Half-lap joints are very strong.  If you have a router and a flush trim bit, you could easily add several inches to the door using a 1 - 2" overlap.

   The challenging part, at least for me, is getting the depth set right, but once it's set, it doesn't need to be changed.  And you could remove the bulk of the material with a dado blade on a table saw.

   As an alternative, have you considered a 6 inch threshold?   :-)

5. 
   Omah | Aug 26, 2009 06:50am | #7

   Were people really that short 80 years ago? Any way you cut it or add to it you have to get some vertical grain going. I usually add my tops or bottoms and cut in a splint down the stile and into the rail. It keeps the patch from splitting off esp. when the kids slam the door.

6. 
   PeteDraganic | Aug 26, 2009 02:50pm | #8

   I would break the job into two pieces, top and bottom. Then you could dowel them on for a good hold.

   Maybe you could cut a bead along the edges of the pieces that you are adding to make it look more like a decorative piece and not a patch.

    

   I refuse to accept that there are limitations to what we can accomplish.        Pete Draganic

    

   Take life as a test and shoot for a better score each day.          Matt Garcia

1. 
   dockelly | Aug 26, 2009 04:50pm | #9

   OK, I just measured the doors.  One 77 1/2" and the other 78".  I could have sworn he said you needed to add 6" or more, but never measured them myself.  Judging by the thickness of the bottom rail, it looks like it was cut down.  At these lengths I may be able to get away with them by making door opening shorter at the top.  I'm 6'3", if I can make it through, most everyone will also.  If not, adding 2 to 2 1/2" should be easier and more stable than 6-8 I originally thought. Thanks  

   Edited 8/26/2009 12:21 pm ET by dockelly

1. 
   VMackey | Aug 26, 2009 08:18pm | #10

   If adding one strip across the bottom would look bad and highlight the fact the styles are short, I'd consider making that new bottom strip a hair fatter.

   When I can't hide something, I try to accentuate it. If the door is 1" thick, I'd mill up a piece to run across the bottom that was 1 3/16th thick, with a nice bevel at that top "exposed" edge. If that looked too bulky I'd thin it down to 1 1/8th.

   I like Pete's idea of the dowels, most likely the strongest option.

   With the bottom thickened, I'd guess it would look good painted or stained. Vic

1. 
   mmoogie | Aug 26, 2009 09:08pm | #11

   I've done this countless times. If it's going to be painted I make a clean cut on the bottom of the door and biscuit a strip of the needed width, and sand everything flush. Then to fake the stiles I take a utility knife and a straightedge and score lines across the added piece that are extensions of the line created by the joint between the stiles and the bottom rail. Score them nice and deep and a little wider than you think you should, because they will fill up with paint to some degree.Oops, meant to address that to doc...Steve

   Edited 8/26/2009 2:09 pm by mmoogie

1. 
   VMackey | Aug 26, 2009 11:45pm | #12

   Np problem. I've also used the "utility knife styles" on paint grade projects. It's a nice little trick to keep in mind. Vic