Replies

1. 
   IronHelix | Oct 28, 2005 01:07pm | #1

   Just questions....no answers!

   What are the details of the wall's construction under the vinyl siding?

   I assume the patio cover is close to "flat-roofed!? If not, what pitch?

   What are the details of the patio parts that attach to the house?  Or is really a constructed roof.  "Patio cover" tends to mean aluminum pans and posts set to a aluminum box beam with intergral gutter system.

   How much "free board" of vinyl siding will be above the ledger?

   Is there a roof overhang above, or does the patio cover catch a water load from the eave above?

   Will the patio cover face the prevailing wind and water pattern?

   Got pictures?

    

   ................Iron Helix

1. 
   jimatgreatwhite | Oct 29, 2005 05:31pm | #3

   Thanks for all the things to consider.

   Willl be taking a look at it today, Golden CO, plenty of wind and snow.

   Most likely 2x4 frame sheathed with osb.

   2x8 construction on 9 1/2" lvl beam on 3 4x4 posts, heavy on the metal connecters to fight wind. plusI'd like to get to at least a 3-4/ pitch on the roof, simple shed style, coming off the wall with shingles to match existing house.  Plus or minus twelve feet on the run of the rafters. Twenty feet length of beam.

   I'll have more details later today.

   Thanks Jim

1. 
   IronHelix | Oct 30, 2005 02:25am | #5

   Jim, with a 3/12 on a 12' span the rise would be 3'8"+/-. and if the top of the beam is at 8' elevation then your wall needs to be at least 13' elevation above the patio.

   A 4/12 would need another foot.  Is there that much wall...or am I not correctly visualizing what you have written?  Is this a gable end wall or an eave wall?

   What are the wind and snow loads? How are you going to tie this roof assembly together and then fasten the posts to the patio?

   Will the snow loads call for a double LVL?

   Is the ceiling to be finished?

   Be sure to hem the lower edge of the flashing.

   .................Iron Helix

   PS...do you need to pull a permit for this kind of thing in Boulder?  If yes, you may wish to check the codes/specs and the inspector's slant on this patio cover before proceeding......just a thought!

1. 
   jimatgreatwhite | Nov 13, 2005 08:37am | #6

   Hey helix

   Been a while since I've been here, thanks for the info.

   Turns out span would be about ten feet. Beam height about seven to eight feet above existing deck. I'd most likely go with dbl 9 1/2 lvl on two spans.

   Plenty of wall above, two story gable end wall. Problem is bay cantilever only two thirds under proposed cover. There is a window above this bay which sets ledger height for roof, leaves just enough room for a 3/12 pitch.

   This would be permitted job, through Jefferson County, been through the " let's just sneak it by" , way more trouble than it's worth.

   Helped a friend open up a kitchen wall in a two story house, ie cut into wall, after properly bracing floor, add header and trimmers bearing down to beam in first floor. Red tag next day. About $600 extra for fines and unnecessary engineering, (the plan reviewer told him this). He said had they started with a permit the reviewer could have approved the beam size. No permit, need stamped drawings, engineers letter and engineer field inspection and additional letter after inspection.

   I'm completely buried at work and may have to pass on this for now,as it is a friend of a friend job. I may have time later, who knows. Thanks for all of your help.

   Jim

2. 
   Matt | Oct 28, 2005 01:29pm | #2

   You need to remove the siding in that area and flash the ledger well.  In particular, after the new roof is built you need 'L' flashing that extends 3 or 4 " out on the roof with the other leg of the 'L' going up the wall 4" or so.  As far as special tools, if you had a siding removal tool, it would make it a lot easier.  I forget the exact name of the thing but it is about 6" long and has a flat piece of metal on the "business end" bent into a hook.

   To really do a first class job of the flashing you may need a bending break, but, depending on what profiles of flashing you can get your hands on locally you may not need it.  I live in at least a medium sized city but still have to go to a roofing supply store to get the kind of flashings you would need.  Home centers - at least here - don't sell those larger 'L' flashings.  It always amazes me that they sell what they can make money on rather than what people need to do a job...

   One additional thought - if it were possible to plan your ledger height such that a piece of siding would end up with the normal bottom edge about 1" above the new roof top finish surface it would be ideal.

1. 
   jimatgreatwhite | Oct 29, 2005 05:34pm | #4

   Thanks Matt

   The flashing thing is more than true here big town, Metro Denver!

   I try to aim for the bottom of a row of siding on anything like this, thanks foro  the reminder.

    

   JIm