I’m a first timer on this forum. I watch TOH, I read a lot of how-to, but I have almost no practical experience. So here goes my first post – asking for an answer that I it seems like I should already know.
The front porch is 6×8 going onto a Colonial Garrison. The roof will be 5×10 from the clapboards on the second floor (the overhang is 18″). The roof has an “A” shape.
I am overbuilding everything – 4 DIY trusses made out of 2×6, 7 2×6 rafters extending out and notched into trusses, big columns, etc.
When I attach the roof to the house…
…should I:
1a) Cut away the clapboards and leave the Tyvek intact?
1b) Leave the clapboards & Tyvek intact?
1c) Or…
…should I:
2a) Use huge galv. lags into the studs and base plate?
2b) Or…
And then, should I:
3a) Flash it? With aluminum? Lead?
It sure is easy to find practical limits to my knowledge once I pick up the tools…
Replies
I'm going to do what we call "bump" which is not answering (because I don't know), but by doing this will put your question back near the top so it doesn't get buried.
What the venerable Piffin said.
He's saying to remove the siding (duh) and lag the first truss to the house, (which sounds like wood frame).
Then the rest of the trusses must then sit on a beam which is then connected to a post which then sits on a footer which then sits on uncompacted soil which then sits on bedrock and then eventually sits on the molten core of the earth's center.
DON"T CUT INTO THE SIDING IN PLACE
Lay out where the cut would be and then start removing siding about 18" above that line. Build your porch roof attaching the rear truss to the siding ( You do plan on having beams to hold thesse trusses don't you?)
After you shingle the roof with step flashing adressing that wall intersection, tuch taarpaper under the existing tyvek and over the step falshing, then re-install the siding, trimming it to about an inch above the shingled roof. Allowing the siding to contact the shingles will wick or lead water back into the wall.
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Add to that get the bottom piece of step flash should be on top of the clapboard at the drip edge.
or a kicker
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GREAT words! Thanks. Now I have to figure out some of the details...Yes, it is a wood-framed house (14 years old, 2x6 studs). Yes, the two beams are both doubled 2x8's for a solid appearance. The columns in the rear will be half size copies of the front two columns. The columns will be at least 6x6's, 8' high. And despite conventional wisdom, like Homer, I also worry about the instability of all footings since they ultimately do rest on liquid magma - but that's another discussion (when we're talking about UFO's or something).CLARITY needed:Why remove the siding above instead of cutting it in place?
(1) I will know quite precisely where the top of the shingles will end.
(2) I can use my trim saw to get close to the Tyvek and then finish it by hand.
(3) I can slide the flashing underneath as required, dealing with interfering nails as I find them.
Or am I underestimating the difficulty of my plan and overestimating the difficulty of removing and reinstalling the clapboard above?Why "tuck tarpaper under the existing tyvek"?
I thought the Tyvek was best left undisturbed so I don't perce the "envelope" wrapping the house.And finally, what's a "kicker"?
Your choice to cut the siding in place or remove whole & replace...
Cut Tyvek can be resealed w/Tyvek tape...
Seems like you understand the Principle of flashing...the upper piece laps over the lower, just like shingles...
Flash with the best material you can budget for...(though lead isn't called for here...)
It is a whole lot easier to remove and re-install than to try working slips of step flashing in individually with most kinds of siding. You can do it either way, but all my experience says it is a slower frustrating experince to try working in under the existing and it is less apt to be a succesfull waterproof jobto have a waterproof job the laps must all face downhill. If you put step flashing over the building wrap, the tops will face uphill. That means that any moisture driven in by wind or welling up over from heavy rain or snow buildup or ice damming or drip line splashing will end up running behind the flashing and down behind all the work you did.You are unlikely to be able to cut the siding in place without also cutting the wrap anyway."Dealing with the interfering nails"
Do you have any idea how hard you will make this by having a roof structure in place before you 'deal' with them? count on skinned knuckles.Kicker
Missing too often with new construction.
We see the roof go on before the siding and so the flashing is already in place when the siding happens. The siding guys should slip a piece of flashing behind the bottom step flash and over the siding that intersects the fascia so that all water following that flashing run will be ejected to run over the siding. When it is neglected, the water runs behindf the siding and causes rot and mold.
That bottom piece can sometimes need to be bent oputfor thicker siding. It is a kicker because it kicks the water away from the siding and wall
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
FANTASTIC INFO! I thank you ALL for your help and your patience. The "re-phrasing" really did help.But I need to specifically thank Piffin - I really appreciate your time and effort.I am very, very pleased and I learned a lot. My work will include virtually all of the suggestions. Hopefully I will have a chunk of practical experience on this topic very soon (working around the promised rain).
Post pictures after so we can all pat you on the back for a job well done! That'll save you breaking you ownarm reaching back around there.LOLBYW, Thanks for the kind words
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!