I need to adhere plastic sheeting to poured concrete — any advice on what type of adhesive to use would be most appreciated. of course, i need something that will neither melt or rip the plastic, and the less messy the better as i am messy person to start off. also, to the extent possible, i’d like the seam btw. the plastic and the concrete to be air tight. thanks much. t.
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
With the right approach, you can restore old hardware—whether through soaking, scrubbing, or polishing—giving it a fresh look while preserving its original charm.
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Fine Homebuilding Magazine
Fine Home Building
Follow
-
Fine Homebuilding
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial Now -
GBA Prime
Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
new or old crete?
what kind of plastic?
duration? two weeks or twenty years?
anything over it?
in otherwords, why, what for etc? Do yopu want this to come back off again?
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
Is this the same Tony who had two tubes of caulk explode out the back end?
Need more details: 1- we're nosy, and 2- maybe we can give a better opinion.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Now you've got my imagination going. This could be anything from a drop clothe to a John Wayne Gacy coverup job, LOL
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Yes, this is the same embarassed tony. I'm setting up a shop in my basement. One of the guys who taught me woodworking over the past year and a half warned me about dust coming up through the floorboards into the first floor since i have an unfinished basement. Since I don't want to sheetrock the basement ceiling for a variety of reasons, I was hoping to install plastic sheeting accross the ceiling to form a barrier between the bottom of the floorboards (which i can't see of course bc of subfloar and insulation) and the dusty air i'll be producing in the shop. i'm trying to determine the best way to afix the plastic to the exposed wooden beams and the newly poured concrete foundation (the house was built last year). any toughts would be much appreciated, either on the specific question posed or my overall situation. thx very much. tony.
You just want to seal off the room, right? You don't need to seal the barrier to the concrete, you just need to create a continuous barrier. In the case use acoustic sealant to seal the seams.
What about ventilation?
staples/hammer stapler Rik
Tony ... we're old, but we have good memories ... sometimes. What was the question?
You posted this in thread 57921 but I can't remember how to do a link.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
"i'm trying to determine the best way to afix the plastic to the exposed wooden beams and the newly poured concrete foundation (the house was built last year). "You sub-floor is either plywood or OSB. If you have problems with sawdust getting though that you have serious problems that a sheet of plastic won't fix.
You mean plastic sheeting like vapour barrier ?Dust up through the floorboards ? Maybe 60+ years ago, but not since ply/composite subfloors..
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
well, i spoke with the company that installed the flooring when the house was built. the guy said construction is plywod nailed to the bearms with paper over that. he said that he probably didn't think dust would make its way through but he certaintly couldn't guarantee that and pointed out it certaintly is not air tight and if the dust particles are small enough he thought "you never know" and better to be safe then sorry on something like that, so it seems like a good and inexpensive prophylactic measure. somebody mentioned to me using firing strips for attaching to the rafters, which sounds like the best idea to me so far. not sure about the concrete side walls though. as far as ventilation is concerned, there are several widnows that i can crack as necessary, possibly with a fan in one outside winter months.
Re: ventilation ... what do you have for heat and a/c? Forced air system? Better put extra filters on the return air grilles and change them often.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
basically we are dealing with an unfinished basement that i walled off 1/2 off, which half has several windows and sliding door (ie, walk out basement), but NO intakes, outputs or anything related to the hvac system. it doesn't get below 50 in the winter or above 75 in the summer, so i figured i'd just leave it like that for now and possibly limit my hours in january and february (or get a small space heater, but i hate the idea of one of those in a wood shop).
given those facts, is there still something i need to do re: filters? thx. tony.
I'm thinking you'll be wanting a combination of positive ventilation and dust control in there (where do you live where is never goes below 50º ?). If you just leave it static, then that shop may become pretty unpleasant over time. Acoustic tile may be what you want for the ceiling..
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
i live outside of nyc, and part of the basement is under ground and part isn't, seems to do a pretty good job of not dropping temperature below 50. ventillation in the winter is an issue.
http://www.cleanroomswest.com