Replies

1. 
   IanDG | Oct 12, 2004 02:15am | #1

   Transport them upright on edge in a cradle with padding -- old carpet works well. Think 'A' frame -- the way they transport glass.

   Ask the shop to save the sink cutout pieces, put them back in position with dobs of sheetrock mud -- that'll help to support the front and back edges of the cutout and you can easily cut them free afterwards with a padsaw.

   Carry them in the cradle -- upright and on edge at all times.

   One way to make it idiot-proof is to design the cabinet so that you can stick a sheet of 3/4" mdf permanently to the back of the granite [neutral-cure silicone will do that] as soon as you get it from the shop -- still stick the cut-outs back though with the sheetrock mud.

   IanDG

1. 
   alwaysoverbudget | Oct 12, 2004 03:14am | #2

   i like that idea about bonding mdf to the back except i have already got my cabinets built and i made the tops solid so they could help support the granite. i've glued and nailed them so that won't work. what about if a guy hot glued a 2x 4 along the front and back to help support while placing it. do you think you could get the hot glue off the surface? thanks for the info larry

1. 
   IanDG | Oct 12, 2004 03:25am | #3

   I don't see why it shouldn't work -- the glue should come off easily enough because it's not going to penetrate the granite.

   IanDG

2. 
   Clay | Oct 13, 2004 07:06am | #16

   Clamps are more commonly used than hot glue.  You have to arrange the support system to clear the clamps though. 

2. 
   FastEddie1 | Oct 12, 2004 03:35am | #4

   Padsaw ... not a term I'm familiar with.

   I agree on the plywood.  Even a sheet of 1/4" would help.

   What about designing it with a joint centered on the sink?

   Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!"  Then get busy and find out how to do it.  T. Roosevelt

   Edited 10/11/2004 8:36 pm ET by Ed Hilton

1. 
   alwaysoverbudget | Oct 12, 2004 07:34am | #7

   it kinda goes against my thought pattern of taking 1 pc and making it 2. but the more i think about it, it don't sound to bad, all that would really show is 2.5" fine line grouted and siliconed. and i think  the risk of breaking it would be slight.[unless you hit one of the thin legs sticking off] thanks i'll chew on this idea a little. larry

2. 
   IanDG | Oct 12, 2004 10:40am | #9

   Padsaw ... not a term I'm familiar with.

   I know you have them because I've seen them in HD but I don't know what your name for them is.

   They look like a fish-filleting knife with teeth.

   IanDG

1. 
   FastEddie1 | Oct 12, 2004 02:26pm | #11

   Ok ... like a keyhole saw.

   Dang foreigners.  Next thing you know, they'll be using funny words for truck ... elevator ... umbrella ... baby carriage ... simple, common stuff everybody understands.

   Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!"  Then get busy and find out how to do it.  T. Roosevelt

   Edited 10/12/2004 7:28 am ET by Ed Hilton

2. 
   SEBDESN | Oct 12, 2004 05:03am | #5

   Just put in some granite tops. The thin strips on both edges of the sink were grooved and steel rods epoxyed into the grooves.. Looked bullit proof. All movement of the slabs was when they were vertical. Only horiz  was when final tip to the cabs.     Might ask the fabricators for some tips...

3. 
   ponytl | Oct 12, 2004 07:07am | #6

   drop in or undermount sink? if it's a drop in...  man i think i'd cut or have someone come cut the sink hole in place... if it's a drop in sink it wouldn't be a big deal with a diamond blade... 

   i do know this... if you crack one... it ain't the cheap way to go if ya have to buy 2...

   pony

1. 
   alwaysoverbudget | Oct 12, 2004 07:39am | #8

   i'll be going with a undermount sink,i tossed around leaving about 4" uncut on each side,then when in place using a diamond blade to cut it out.  i think if a guy breaks it thru the sink opening they have some kinda  epoxy to glue it back, but i don't want to find out! larry

4. 
   MisterT | Oct 12, 2004 12:34pm | #10

   Yer not gonna save any money!!!

    

   Mr T

   I can't afford to be affordable anymore

1. 
   alwaysoverbudget | Oct 12, 2004 04:01pm | #12

   maybe not ,but i gotta give it a shot. fabracator wants 45. sq ft x120.= 5,500  i can buy the slabs for 8.25 sq ft x120 plus 4-500 on the water jet. i'm hoping to come in around 2k total after i buy some polishing supplies.but as most things go there will be some surprises. larry

1. 
   JeffBuck | Oct 13, 2004 03:37am | #13

   on edge.

   then on edge ...

   then on edge.

   oh yeah ... carry it on edge too.

   and plan on help. All the stone shops have a coupla thick short guys ...

   not sure if they started the day short ... but they are by the time they load ... drive it ... unload it .... then install it.

   Jeff

1. 
   alwaysoverbudget | Oct 13, 2004 06:40am | #15

   lets see hows this goes-on edge-on edge-on edge,right? lol larry

2. 
   USAnigel | Oct 13, 2004 06:10am | #14

   So you want to be frugal!! Why not just leave the edges rough? Use a wet saw to cut on site to size. You could soften the edges with epoxy applied with a brush. Some triming can be done with a brick hammer or a torch to give a flame edge. Get a scrape piece and have a go! But you will need some tough guys to move it around.

5. 
   Sphere | Oct 13, 2004 09:03pm | #17

   I have always seen them delivered with the cut outs incomplete, they make the final cuts onsite.

    

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.