Advice please: As part of a new addition to our house, we installed a new master bath. Given grade differences, this meant installing a new ejector pump sewage system in our unfinished cellar. We were a bit nervous about having to go the ejector pump route because we had heard that these can be noisy, and the pump and tank are directly below our kitchen. Well, the good news is that the newly installed pump is extremely quiet. The bad news is that in a test run last week with tap water, the system (manufacturer ABS?) leaked. So we contacted our GC who contacted the plumbers who did the install. Yesterday, the plumbers replaced just the tank, not the pump, with another tank. Guess what…it also leaked when we tested it (after they left). Another call to GC, etc. Plumbers came back today, and their “solution” to the leak problem was to seal the gasket area with silicone and adjust the pump to kick on at a lower fill-level. Their view is that the holding tank design for this system has a defect (given the experience with two leaky tanks), and this silicone fix is the way to go.
I am not happy with this “Solution,” but the other half of the family is reluctant to insist on a full system replacement because a different make/brand might be noiser. I’m worried that the silicone seal might be temporary, and that things could get really tricky once the system handles more than tap water (!). My opinion: if it’s a problem when brand-new, replace it now. Suggestions, please, especially from pro’s.
Replies
Exactly where is the water leaking?
Around the input flange that is fastened to the tank by means of pop rivets. The leak is around the rivets.
If you have a tank that is leaking anywhere below the cap then I would not accept any on-site "repair" unless it is done by the manufacturer. If the water is coming out at the seal of the cap to the tank, then the cap isn't sealed well or the controls are not getting the pump to come on soon enough, or both. Considering how unpleasant it will be to replace it later (after its been in use awhile, and then leaked again) I would say get it right at the start. You took a chance on the noise issue to begin with, so you can do that again. (There shouldn't be that much difference between similar brands).
I suppose if the plumbers are willing to put into writting a guarantee that they will cover all the costs of a replacement down the road, then maybe you will feel like its a good gamble. Still, it'll be a mess.
Thanks for the very practical advice.
If you or anyone else has had positive experience with a particular brand, please let me know.
what am I missing
seems like the inlet piping would not be under much pressure.
a leak there indicates a really bad plumbing connex.
If the tank is filling up, then the float switch needs adjustment to keep the water level below the rim seal area.
on some pumps the float (if used) must be completely free to move fully vertical either up or down.
Do you or anyone else know of a manufacturer who makes a tank in which the sewage inlet has a molded flange?
There is some good pressure there - the system is a force main running to gravity sewer when in operation, maybe 40psi when in operation, and then the head pressure of the effluent in the pipe when not in use (check valve keeps effluent from running back into tank.
I am doing a bunch of work right now with the E-1 type of systems, except it is their external grinder pump systems. In areas that are too hilly or the terrain is otherwise unsuitable to a gravity sewer system (runs uphill), one option is to use a long line that runs to a gravity sewer manhole and have everyone tie into this line from their house. The house runs a gravity line out to a sump in the yard, where the effluent is ground and forced under pressure through the line to the manhole. The long term issue is usually how good the pump is - will it handle the solids passing through it, etc. The E-1 system has a fairly tough municipality ok'ing then as a sole source here, and seems like a good product. They are the top grinder system in use in my area. I'm getting ready to buy a bunch of them.
I agree with the thought that scrap the thing if it is leaking now, you will have maintenance issues always.
remodeler
If it leaks now, it will leak later. When one is installed on my sewer system we test it at 100 lbs pressure for 5 min, normal pressure on the system is 15-25 lbs. Do not accept this system if stop gap measures are used to stop leaking. Do a search on Google for Orenco products, or Barnes pumps, or E-One systems, something doesn't sound right, a proper system will give years of trouble free service.
Alan
No pro here but have one.
The tank in my place is bomb proof. Fiberglass wrap around it I've only seen on Natural gas tanks installed on automobiles. Price was dear well over a grand for a 40 to 55 gallon size.
Mine is flush (mostly) with the basement floor.
The tank to top lid connection has to be solid. There are several plates on the top for access. You need to examine what you have and see where it leaks. All my access plates are screwed in with machine screws. (think valve covers on an engine) If someone torqued it incorrectly the thin sheet metal might have bent and spoiled the sealing capabilities. Take a straight edge and check the access plates for straightness.
(Now what I mean by access plates are the screwed in plates for the inlet, outlet, sump power feed, vent, and the emergency float sensor.)
It isn't pressure tight (unlike the bomb proof comment I made earlier) there are gaskets where the rigid pipe comes from the pump to the outlet piping. The gasket there is like window gasket on a car.
You need to check out all the little holes in the cover. My plumber hasn't installed the emergency float yet so I have an aroma vent that is still open but there is no liquid loss.
Oh yea it sounds like a waring blender when it cuts in even though it is implanted in concrete. I've found the sound a bit of a comfort that I know it works. It is reminicient of garbage day when you put the empty cans back in the garage.