Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | May 24, 1999 02:14am | #1

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   Jim, You will probably get a lot of responses to this question. Here are a few things to think about. I have used stainless screws and other non- visible fasteners. I prefer the hidden fasteners. If you are building a deck long enough to require butting boards, buy all of your boards from the same length stock because Trex doesn't seem to be able to make two different length boards the same width. You don't have to leave much space for expansion between boards but you have to leave at least 1/4" on each end. You've got to forget about the stuff expanding widthwise like normal wood does. The major expansion is lengthwise. I live in a climate where it can get to 95 degrees in the summer and 30 below in the winter and my deck (28') expands and shrinks about 1/2" total. Your deck will look much better if you can eliminate butt joints and use hidden fasteners. Be prepared to have to wrestle it into line just like wood, especially if you are working in the sun. I don't use it anywhere except for decking. I like real wood for the other surfaces, but as deck flooring, I really like Trex.

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   Guest_ | May 24, 1999 04:54am | #2

   *My mother said if I don't have anything nice to say...I've said too much already.

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   Guest_ | May 24, 1999 06:12am | #3

   *I used it and yes, I liked it. So there.It does absorb water and needs to air dry like wood. I used 1/4" gaps, easier to get the tree gunk out that way. The stuff is quite flexible, I wouldn't try using it as railing. i guess the balusters would be OK, but wood is nicer there. I'm playing with the idea of copper pipe or stainless wire for rails, something different since the deck looks different too. be careful to keep the boards straight. don't overspan (16" for 5/4?) No predrilling needed for screws .. I used Deckmaster & const adhesive, a pain to work with but it does look good.The only big drawback is that is just isn't very attractive -- fades to a cement look. I broke it up by running the boards at about 30° and alternating 2x4 with 2x6. You have to want its other advantages enough to choose it over redwood, cedar, etc. But you've already got it, just do a nice job putting it in. Heck, have fun with it.As someone said on another topic, this has been discussed & cussed here plenty, look around.

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   Guest_ | May 24, 1999 08:06am | #4

   *I'll bet you deck looks a lot better than mine Andrew...you got it, I actually have deck envy. I've stripped the existing deck off the house and have to do the roof and siding and excavate and seal the basement before I can replace it. I, sniffel sniffel, won't have a deck for a very long time, so I'm a little vulnerable about all this decking talk, OK.

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   Guest_ | May 25, 1999 12:41am | #5

   *you know,I believe you can stain Trex. I would'nt use it for a railing though. I use it in commercial settings because of its non skid abilities

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   Guest_ | May 25, 1999 08:25am | #6

   *The distributor cautioned that if you did stain it the nonskid properties would be reduced. I guess the water repellancy of the stain causes problems. I tried a dab of stain and it took fine, maybe the right kind help. I guess you could paint it too.Don't be envious, Lawrence -- I'm the guinea pig for my own deckbuilding! It is other people who will get the nice work after I go through a couple hundred "I'll never try -that- again" experiences at home.Jim - go to the lumberyard and pick up a few pieces of Trex. It gets more flexible with heat too. You won't want to use it in a railing after that.

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   nigel_martin | May 28, 1999 08:21am | #7

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   Most of it turns bright gray after 3 years. The railing will sag if not supported all the way along, this limits style alittle. look at the trex deck pictures in the mags. and you can see how flexable it is. Take alook at timbertech too.

3. 
   Guest_ | May 29, 1999 10:24am | #8

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   Keep in mind that they offer TREX in a few different colors (at least in No CA), Dark grey, Brown and the std. lt. grey.

   Forget about it for railings.

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   Guest_ | May 29, 1999 05:57pm | #9

   *I had to laugh aloud when I saw the nicely shaded picture on the brochure with the trex deck and the "Red Cedar", rail!

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   Guest_ | May 29, 1999 09:04pm | #10

   *They've said for some time that they'd come out with a reddish color. The distributor said that they were falling bahind on production of the regular colors and so had delayed the newer one. It may offer a little more visual interest.They offer some rail details on their site. if I remember every baluster touches the deck surface.

4. 
   Jim_Yates_P.E. | Jun 03, 1999 06:56am | #11

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   TREX:Installation Update. Decking is installed, as well as the railing. It went well but a few comments. I wouldn't recommend screwing through the face surface as I did. Hammering "flat" the raised "mushroom" created when running in the screws is twice the work and leaves lines of dimples over each joist. I'd use blind fasteners next time. Although heavy and floppy it was nice not worrying about PT splinters when handling. Widths seemed to run true for each board and the 20' lengths made a nice seamless surface. TREX has a Manual for Contractors they sell or you can get free from your local distributor. It contains details for using TREX in a railing. I'd recommend shortening the max. recommended span of 72" between railing posts to 60". Ballusters must distribute weight to the skirtboard or to decking. I alternated every other one (5" centers) to sit on the decking. This stuff is very unforgiving in hiding uneven joist or post alignment. It basically conforms to whatever it rests on. Bottom line, I liked it as a material to work with but not thrilled with it's looks and am skeptical of it's longevity claims.

5. 
   Guest_ | Jun 04, 1999 05:49am | #12

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   I built a deck about 3 years ago with Trex (back in its infancy) in San Francisco about 2 blocks from the ocean (where everything grows mold, mildew, or rust). Despite what some say about its lack of asthetic appeal, the weathered grey look is much better than splintering, checking, cupping cedar or redwood. I used stainless deck screws and joists 16"oc (Trex has since revised their span tables for residential loads so that the 2x6 material can now span greater distances). Had to muscle a few pieces into place, but it was mostly straight. Also, I understand that all the colors fade to the same grey.

   A.M.

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   Guest_ | Jun 04, 1999 06:33am | #13

   *Is it less likely to mold/mildew? I've noticed that it dries quickly, but i attributed it to my brilliant detailing...

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   Guest_ | Jun 04, 1999 09:23am | #15

   *Jim, I use the following to install most decking, be it Trex or P.T., First for Trex I would not advise using it for railings or any other structural portions of the deck.I use strips of 1/4" or 3/8" plywood (2"x 6") as spacers for the deck boards,placing them on top of the joist on every other joist, while installing 3 or 4 rows at a time.I install the shims along the full length of the boards ( usually 12'-16'), I then use the Bow Wrench to snug up the first set of spacers and screw that row off with a Quickdrive QD2000 screw gun (without the extension) using gal. deck screws (I would use stainless if they are available for the Quickdrive). I then move down to the next set of spacers and set the Bow Wrench, then fasten with the screws, after setting the whole deck this way I attach the extension to the Quickdrive and screw the rest of the deck off from a standing position. I use this fairly tight pattern for Trex because of it's tendency to bend over fairly short distances and can be a visual drawback if you get to much bending, with P.T. or other woods I don't screw off as closely at first but I do use the Bow wrench to "set" the decking with the spacers in between and then screw off later from the standing position. I choose the spacer that fits the layout best. The Quickdrive works excellently to set the screws, as you can adjust the depth as on a drywall gun, works great on Trex!, a little more effort needed on P.T. As for spacing around posts,I leave a very small (1/16") gap all around or I have even cut them tight with no problems.Because of the railing detail I use, I only use the Trex on the top "cap" , but not for any other part of the rail. The cap gives a usable surface for setting drinks or plates on as well as protecting the top edges of the balusters from the elements. Hope this isn't to late to help you. P.S. as mentioned above, don't space your joists more than 16" O.C. as the 5/4" Trex will tend to sag. Geoff

6. 
   Jim_Yates_P.E. | Jun 04, 1999 09:23am | #14

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   I have to install 400 sq. ft. of TREX decking (5/4x6"x20').I've been over every cyber-inch of their website but want the real skinny from someone who's used it. What fasteners have you used? How much gap to leave between boards and where it's notched around PT posts. Also how are the 2x4's,6's and 2x2 ballusters for railings? Will 5 foot 2x4 rails sag under the weight of the ballusters? Any experienced advice appreciated. Thanks. Jim.