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Advice for sealing a wooden bench

bjnjii | Posted in General Discussion on May 25, 2007 09:00am

Hello everyone, It has been a while since coming to you for advice.

A short time ago, I bought a beautifully carved, painted and stained bench from Mexico.  It is the size of a love seat. The back has parrots carved and painted on either side with large orchids in the center.  The rest of the wood; i.e., arms, seat, etc., have been stained dark brown and wiped for a nice effect.

It is protected overhead from rain and direct sunlight, but will get blowing rain.  I would like advise as to how to seal this wood.  It appears to be a soft wood, yet is sturdy and seems very strong.  I also would like to know if there is some special treatment for the wood touching the cement, or will a sealer be adequate to ensure it does not begin to deteriorate.

Thanks for your advise

BJ

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  1. User avater
    MrSQL | May 25, 2007 02:21pm | #1

    If it were me I'd look into an exterior tung oil.  It's easier to apply and renew.  I've used it fo exterior wood furniture with good success.

    I've also used regular minwax exterior spar eurethane for exterior doors with good success.  Problem is that film finishes can crack or peel and are harder to renew.

    I'd keep the wood legs off the ground with either a sacrificial wood block (out of rot resistant wood (e.g. redwood, white oak, walnut, cedar, ...)), or some kind of stainless steel button.

     

     

  2. YesMaam27577 | May 25, 2007 09:37pm | #2

    You want an oil based finish that is not a film-forming finish. Tung oil has been suggested, and is a good idea.

    There are also exterior treatments that are linseed oil based (Flood's CWF-UV), and teak-oil based (Pennofin). Any of these would be a good choice.

    And any of the above that also offer additional UV rotection are a big plus.

     

     

    Support our Troops. Bring them home. Now.  And pray that at least some of the buildings in the green zone have flat roofs, with a stairway.

    1. bjnjii | May 26, 2007 12:30am | #3

      Thanks so very much, MrSQL and YesMaam27577

      I am so very excited.  I fell in love with this bench when I first saw it and rushed home to discuss it with my husband and to "borrow" his truck and him.  I knew the lady who owned the establishment and she held it for my return, or call : ^)

      I do thank you for the suggestion of a sacrafical wood placed under the legs.  This we will do and with the help of my husband, and your great advise, we will be able to preserve this wonderful bench and enjoy it for years to come.

      I must tell you, and I suppose I am talking too much; however, I have not been able to sit outside and enjoy the early mornings or late evenings...and am doing it frequently now.

      Thanks again, bj

  3. WayneL5 | May 26, 2007 02:01am | #4

    I'd recommend the second suggestion, buttons, rather than sacrificial wood.  The sacrificial wood will hold moisture.  The buttons won't.  I'd recommend the nylon nail-in type over all metal ones.  It will be easier on the concrete.

    Apply your finish before attaching the buttons.



    Edited 5/25/2007 7:02 pm ET by WayneL5

    1. bjnjii | May 26, 2007 05:55am | #5

      Thanks WayneL5 for your excellent suggestion.

      When I read the suggestions to my husband, he said that the oils could rub off on clothing.  I suggested that we try it in small patches on the back side of the bench to see what might work best.  I really want to try the oils and do not want to put anything on that will cause a film that might crack and be difficult to re-do.

      So, first I will look for the product with UV protection, as I want to preserve the beautiful painted back.

      Thanks again, bj

      Edited 5/25/2007 10:57 pm ET by bjnjii

      1. Piffin | May 26, 2007 06:04am | #6

        Once cured the oilwill not rub off, but these mentioend do cure slower than a poyurethene.We use Penofin on ours and it takes 2-3 days to get hard and not oilly 

         

        Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

        1. bjnjii | May 27, 2007 05:12am | #7

          Thanks for your confirmation and recommendation, Piffin.  I think we have this handled now, thanks to all for your help.

          bj

      2. YesMaam27577 | May 28, 2007 09:48pm | #8

        All of the oils that I suggested are the type that "polymerize" in the wood. That is -- they don't just dry. There is a chemical reaction that takes place once the oil is on/in the wood.

        That reaction changes the oil/wood at the surface into a polymer -- almost like a plastic.

        Rest assured that a polymerized oil finish on't rub off on clothes -- the finest futniture makers use oil finishes on some of their pieces - including chairs -- quite commonly.

         

         

         Support our Troops. Bring them home. Now.  And pray that at least some of the buildings in the green zone have flat roofs, with a stairway.

  4. WayneL5 | May 28, 2007 11:17pm | #9

    By the way, all of the drying-type oils mentioned are the ones that spontaneously combust easily when left on rags.  Even a single soaked rag can catch fire if left in a lump.  After use, spread the rags out flat outdoors to dry completely, don't leave them clumped up.

    1. bjnjii | May 29, 2007 07:22am | #10

      My thanks again to YesMaam 27577 and to you WayneL5.  This has become quite an education, for me and maybe for others. 

      I would not have guessed about the spontaneous combustibility of oil-soaked cloths.  Thank you for recognizing my naivety and your caution.

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