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Air nailer choice

| Posted in Tools for Home Building on December 8, 2003 06:19am

Need to put up some 1×6 pine ceiling boards.  Used trim head screws the last time, worked well, but had to fill a lot of holes.  This time I plan to nail.  What’s the best choice of nails and the appropriate gun?  I have a 16 ga finish nailer, but I think it’s too light.  Would a 15 ga be ok?  Or should I use a clipped head framer?  I remember pulling some t-head nails out of boards, and they would seem to be a good choice, but I’m not sure I have seen them for sale recently.  Don’t ask what nailers I have, cuz I’ll buy the right one for the job if I don’t have it already.

 

 

Do it right, or do it twice.

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  1. PaulParadis | Dec 08, 2003 06:42am | #1

    Just put some on the wall today.  I would use the 16 ga 2 1/2" nails.  They actually hold better than the 15 ga.  The 15 ga have more shear strength.  The pine boards I used today were 1x8 and very light.

    We become by effort primarily what we end up becoming

     - Zig Ziglar

    1. FastEddie1 | Dec 08, 2003 07:07am | #2

      Why do you say the 16's will hold better?  I will be putting up syp, and most of it is not light.  Every once in a while we would get a lighter board off the stack, and the difference was very noticeable.  Were your boards white pine?

      You mentioned putting the boards on a wall...me thinks that's very different, cus the weight is borne by the floor & bottom board, so all you're doing is keeping them from falling off the wall.  I'm fighting gravity.

      Do it right, or do it twice.

      1. rebuilder | Dec 08, 2003 07:29am | #3

        Go with a 15ga. nailer. I use 2 1/2" nails in mine. There's been lots of debate in the last few months about brands. My experience is mainly with Senco or Porter-Cable, both of which have worked well for me.

      2. PaulParadis | Dec 09, 2003 07:13am | #5

        I use 23 ga, 18 ga, 16 ga, and 15 ga nails when trimming a house.  In my experience (take that for what little it is worth) it is always harder to pull a 16 ga cleanly out of the wood compared to a 15 ga.  I have thought about it and believe it is because the 15 ga are brite steel so they are smooth and probably still have a small amount of oil on them from manufacturing.  The 16 ga have a galvinized coating which is less smooth and no oil.  I would just ask you to test the two nails for yourself and decide which you think has more holding power.  Put a few of each in a 2x4 with the head proud and use your nippers to pull them out.  I use the 15 ga for things that require more shear strength like hanging doors.We become by effort primarily what we end up becoming

         - Zig Ziglar

  2. Mooney | Dec 08, 2003 06:12pm | #4

    The T head nails that you pulled are a bostich finish gun of the past called the T nailer . They would suck up boards and hold. Painters hated them. I think Bostich still has a smaller T in their design. They rocked for exterior 3/8s quartersawn in its day.

     Tim Mooney

  3. rasconc | Dec 09, 2003 08:33am | #6

    DW and I put up almost a mile of eastern white pine beaded 1x6 on our ceiling.  I had bought a very old 16g Paslode and put up about 85% with it before the piston broke. 

    I used both 2" and 2 1/2" nails.  I put more in than was needed but no problems.  I was shooting into yellow pine truss bottom chord.  The 16's hold like crazy and I usually pop an extra one in if unsure for holding.

    I ran out and bought a Craftsman (don't gag, it's been a good gun) to finish the job.  Asked the tool guy about parts and after he got through laughing he said it was about 5 versions past support.  BIL made me a piston in his machine shop and works like a champ.



    Edited 12/9/2003 12:36:33 AM ET by RASCONC

    1. MisterT | Dec 09, 2003 01:07pm | #7

      1x6 ?

      T&G ?

      Cieling ?

      Fastened every 16" (or 19.2") ?

      18 gauge brads!!

      Hitachi Gun

      1-1/2" over bare framing.

      2" thru sheetrock.

      Mr T

      Do not try this at home!

      I am an Experienced Professional!

      1. rasconc | Dec 09, 2003 05:46pm | #8

        You are probably right but we were going to put 11+" of blown cellulose on top and was a little unsure of just how secure it needed to be.  We had 24" spacing.  Looking back, the nails probably were a bit long but had no problem getting them to go in.

        1. WebTrooper | Dec 09, 2003 11:29pm | #9

          Nobody mentioned cement coated nails. I have them for my senco airless and kind of assumed it was a standard thing. When I go to pull out a nail, even 1-1/2"ers, it takes some force and I can feel the cement pop when the nail finally pulls out. Now that's a good grip!~ WebTrooper ~

          "But don't take my word for it. I was wrong once and it could happen again!"

  4. redlead | Dec 10, 2003 02:55am | #10

    Blind nailing t & g pine boards? Or face nailing square edge product? How many lineal feet? If tongue and groove and nailing only with puny 15 or 16 ga fasteners, and esp. if they're heavyish yellow pine, I'd get some PL Premium or other serious adhesive going for me as well. If face nailing, how will a full, clipped, or t-nail save you labor to fill over the trim screws? Screws, obviously, will be the strongest attachment, but alas the most labor intensive. Good Luck. Perfect is close enough.

    1. FastEddie1 | Dec 18, 2003 05:45am | #11

      Face nailing syp t&g 1x6 boards over existing masonite ceiling on the front porch.  Paint grade work.  I think the nail holes will be easier to fill than screw holes, and faster to install.Do it right, or do it twice.

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